Back end is sagging... Any suggestions? Help needed...
I would try to avoid stacking the blocks if possible. Might would feel a little better about doing it if you could weld them together into one solid block.
Also if your 5.5 is tapered I would be even more cautious there....
Also if your 5.5 is tapered I would be even more cautious there....
the shackle is smaller than the shackle you have now, there for bringing you leaf back "down" raising the back end of you truck.
if you go look at your rear shackle, try to imagine if it was half the size and you will see how it works...
hope this helps-
if you go look at your rear shackle, try to imagine if it was half the size and you will see how it works...
hope this helps-
i will be installing it on my truck soon i can let you know, i did look at it and it looks very easy. i have changed out all 4 leaf pack's on a jeep wrangler it was slightly similar and that was easy.
but i can do a thread on it if it would be helpful once i install them, they are still in the mail...
but i can do a thread on it if it would be helpful once i install them, they are still in the mail...
i have a lift in the front and stacked blocks in the back. i think its two 3" blocks and my ride is great. never had a problem.
Here is snipet from an article I read explaining why:
" When lift blocks are added the distance from the spring to the axle is increased. This increased distanced provides greater leverage working against the springs and more importantly the u-bolts. The steel from which the u-bolts are manufactured will provide a given amount of stretch per inch. Therefor the longer the u-bolts the more potential stretch. The leverage applied to the u-bolts and the potential stretching of the u-bolt material are both relative to the distance from axle to spring. Again, the leverage is relative to the distance, not the number of blocks. It is the leverage which causes u-bolt failure. And, it is the failure of the u-bolts which causes blocks to be spit out. It is easy to blame the blocks when they are sitting out on the ground but if the u-bolts did not fail the blocks could not have come out. Therefore the bottom line is keep the leverage to a minimum, and use only high quality u-bolts. Many of the higher quality lift manufacturers now offer oe style one piece replacement lift blocks which will also include an integrated bump stop tag. It is also important to note that some states have laws prohibiting stacked blocks. Be sure to check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles to verify that you are within the law. "
i will be installing it on my truck soon i can let you know, i did look at it and it looks very easy. i have changed out all 4 leaf pack's on a jeep wrangler it was slightly similar and that was easy.
but i can do a thread on it if it would be helpful once i install them, they are still in the mail...
but i can do a thread on it if it would be helpful once i install them, they are still in the mail...
Ride quality should not change to much with your block configuration. You may never have a problem, and I hope you do not. I do believe however there is a reason you do not see blocks much over 5.5" tall.
Here is snipet from an article I read explaining why:
" When lift blocks are added the distance from the spring to the axle is increased. This increased distanced provides greater leverage working against the springs and more importantly the u-bolts. The steel from which the u-bolts are manufactured will provide a given amount of stretch per inch. Therefor the longer the u-bolts the more potential stretch. The leverage applied to the u-bolts and the potential stretching of the u-bolt material are both relative to the distance from axle to spring. Again, the leverage is relative to the distance, not the number of blocks. It is the leverage which causes u-bolt failure. And, it is the failure of the u-bolts which causes blocks to be spit out. It is easy to blame the blocks when they are sitting out on the ground but if the u-bolts did not fail the blocks could not have come out. Therefore the bottom line is keep the leverage to a minimum, and use only high quality u-bolts. Many of the higher quality lift manufacturers now offer oe style one piece replacement lift blocks which will also include an integrated bump stop tag. It is also important to note that some states have laws prohibiting stacked blocks. Be sure to check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles to verify that you are within the law. "
Here is snipet from an article I read explaining why:
" When lift blocks are added the distance from the spring to the axle is increased. This increased distanced provides greater leverage working against the springs and more importantly the u-bolts. The steel from which the u-bolts are manufactured will provide a given amount of stretch per inch. Therefor the longer the u-bolts the more potential stretch. The leverage applied to the u-bolts and the potential stretching of the u-bolt material are both relative to the distance from axle to spring. Again, the leverage is relative to the distance, not the number of blocks. It is the leverage which causes u-bolt failure. And, it is the failure of the u-bolts which causes blocks to be spit out. It is easy to blame the blocks when they are sitting out on the ground but if the u-bolts did not fail the blocks could not have come out. Therefore the bottom line is keep the leverage to a minimum, and use only high quality u-bolts. Many of the higher quality lift manufacturers now offer oe style one piece replacement lift blocks which will also include an integrated bump stop tag. It is also important to note that some states have laws prohibiting stacked blocks. Be sure to check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles to verify that you are within the law. "
I added the procomp AAL to my procomp stage one lift because I couldnt stop staring at the difference in wheel well heights. I thought it looked terrible.
The AAL brought the back up 1.5 inches and now my front and rear wheel wells sit at 11 inches even. the bed rail as a tiny bit of rake when measured with a level.
I live on a dirt road that is poorly maintained and can say that the ride has not suffered. If anything maybe the rear hops a little bit less.
Honestly I think the truck still rides great and would suggest this approach to all who are upset with their "incomplete" procomp kit
The AAL brought the back up 1.5 inches and now my front and rear wheel wells sit at 11 inches even. the bed rail as a tiny bit of rake when measured with a level.
I live on a dirt road that is poorly maintained and can say that the ride has not suffered. If anything maybe the rear hops a little bit less.
Honestly I think the truck still rides great and would suggest this approach to all who are upset with their "incomplete" procomp kit
or you could keep all your ride quality with some thing like this......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Lif...ht_2218wt_1182
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Lif...ht_2218wt_1182
On a Ford, the rear suspension uses an upside down shackle, by installing these shorter shackles, you are in effect lifting the rear, because the eye of the shackle and the end links are closer than stock.
So far I havent noticed any issues as a result of installing them.. I dont tow a lot, so I havent really put them to the test. But, they were like $78 shipped, which was my main reason for trying it.
http://www.activesuspension.com/
It is adjustable, and you can level the truck left/right with a full gas tank.
It is adjustable, and you can level the truck left/right with a full gas tank.


