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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 12:31 PM
  #1  
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Tools..

I got my wheels and tires yesterday, (will post pics and a new thread in wheels and tires in a bit) and lift will be here Tuesday. Ordered the Pro Comp stage 1. Question is other than basic air tools, are there any specialty tools I am going to need for install?? I have a shop full of stuff just making sure I cover all ends. Anyone that has any advice or tips pm or post them. I would appreciate it. Thanks

Brandon
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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for the stage 1 you should beable to complete it with basic shop tools.

you may or may not need a coil spring compressor.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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im sure a impact wrench would be nice to have, but not needed.

spring compressor i dont think is needed because the spacer is just bolted on top of the coilover.

brandon, check out the info on the meet in the south section, its march 7th and so far we should have about 25 trucks out there
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 07:47 PM
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just as stated above, you WONT need a spring compressor for the stage 1 lift. when you remove your factory strut/coil, you will simply bolt your spacer on top of that. i would definately recommend using air..... keeps it much quicker. Also, try to get a pneumatic cut off wheel (get one thats rather thin). i used it to cut the "set pin" out of the front driveshaft. you will see what im talking about when you read the directions. you have to re-clock the front driveshaft, and the cut off wheel worked perfect to remove the key without killing the driveshaft. i didnt get mine re-balanced, and it is just fine. if you have a lift, then thats great, but it can be done with jacks/stands. a sawzall will help too when you cut away the frame to make clearance for the new cross members. other than that, you should be all set.
plan on a full day to get it installed if working straight through...

ohh.... and get a buddy to help, and drink some beers !!!
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 08:34 PM
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i installed my suspension lift in the driveway, on jack stands, w/ only hand tools w/ one other person. if you don't have access to air, don't be intimidated. a 3' piece of cheater pipe will provide you all the leverage you'll need.

you'll need a grinder to trim the frame a little, though. be prepared to have sockets and combinations wrenches all the way up to a 36mm, in 1/2'' drive. also, have a drill, and taps handy.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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I do have air tools and am hoping that will help.. Now a 36mm socket. Goin to have to pick up. I am going to use a 45 degree angle grinder to cut the frame. And whatever else needed. Thanks for the replies and any other tips let me know. I will take pics and try and consume some buur. Again Thanks

Brandon
 
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 09:06 PM
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You shouldn't need a 36mm socket for your '05. The biggest I needed was a 30mm on the lower front shock bolt nuts.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 09:12 PM
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my lower shock bolt was bigger than 30mm, i just used a crescent wrench. the worst part is dropping the front diff, ratcheting wrench's are worth their weight in gold IMO. make sure to blue loctitie EVERY bolt and make sure to torque everything to the right specs, takes more time, but safety first. i also used a paint pen and marked every nut and bolt to make sure it was tightened, also when you check it over 500 miles or so later, you can just look and make sure nothing has loosened up.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 12:21 AM
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another vote on blue loctiting everything. keep in mind, however, if you are tightening by hand, and require more leverage to tighten a bolt to the torque wrench's spec, you will throw its readings off by attaching a piece of cheater pipe to it... just use common sense when tightening things back down. also, chock off the rear tires when working on the front, and vice versa.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 10:59 PM
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Is cutting this "set" pin out a pain?? I am guessing we have this due to no "slip yoke" right? I am getting the shop ready for Friday night. Thanks for the replies guys.

Brandon
 
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