[QUOTE=4.2trimble;3513813]Your logic doesnt make sence... If someone doesnt want to install a body lift theirselves what makes you think they will want to install the suspension lift their selves?
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i have installed several susp lift kits, and only 1 body lift ( it was on a dodge)... i personally thought any one of the susp lifts was easier to install than the body lift.

so what you are saying doesnt make sense..... how could "logic" not make sense.... afterall, thats what it is !!!

 

if someone doesnt have the time, tools, or know how to pull off a body lift install then they probably arent gonna give a suspension lift a chance.

Minimonster17 just put his 6" fabtech on it took 15hours. Me and him did my body lift in about 20hours.

Both types of lifts are easy to install but a body lift you can do with regular garage tools.

Ive installed more lifts than i can think and im just saying.

A person paying to install a body lift is going to pay to install a suspension lift.

 

basically, coming from doing the two lifts on the same truck, here is the breakdown:

body lift: you are going to fight some bolts out every single turn. this is due to a combination of factors, including the seemingly unbreakable permanent loctite Ford puts on the body bolts, in addition to rust, clogged/stripped threads, and stripped heads. this can be done with jacks, jack stands, and a whole bunch of hand tools, along with a lot of persistence. also, make sure to use the red loctite on the new body bolts.

suspension lift: the bolts are not crazy overtorqued from the factory. Ford uses a semi-permanent loctite on the grade 8 fasteners that breaks easily w/ a breaker bar, and cheater pipe. you're going to need sockets/ratchets from 5mm all the way up to 36 mm. a good collection of standard sizes won't hurt, either.

what is more challenging about a suspension lift is totally dropping the front suspension, and reassembling it correctly. organization is key to making sure the parts go back together like they are supposed to, most stock components are retained. it is critical to blue loctite every bolt, and tighten them down good. i didn't use a torque wrench, and tightened everything down by hand using a breaker bar and cheater pipe. so far, i haven't had any problems from doing the install this way. parts aren't necessarily going to want to line back up, I had a hell of a time getting my driver's side lower a arm back on, and the torsion bars back in. also, my alignment, was way off, and the tread on my tires took a beating driving 15 miles to the alignment place.

i did both lifts on a concrete slab outside, on jack stands using hand tools. someone who is contemplating paying somebody to install a body lift will definitely not even considering installing a suspension lift himself.

trimble's body lift took so long because we had to make like 5 parts runs, and took a lunch as well. on my suspension lift, we dropped the whole front suspension in four hours, had it reassembled and lifted in another eight, and took like two-three hours to do the rear (I did a big leaf spring pack) and other misc wrap-up things.

by no means though, am i a professional mechanic. if you are somewhat mechanically inclined, can follow directions and are aware of details, you can install either a body or suspension lift, given you do not underestimate the work/time required to perform the job.

 

i like the second one. whats the difference in the two?

 

i like the second one. which is the difference in the two.

 

1st pic i believe is just torsion bars cranked and 33's maybe
2nd pic is 3" body lift, cranked torsion bars, 36" tires

correct me if im wrong trimble

 

I think you are right.