I had a 3" body lift with 35" tires i installed a 6" fabtech and new rims and 37" tires. So i now have a 9" lift with 37" tires and love the look but i had the lift installed and still had my 35" tires and the ride was alot better than cranked torsion bars, but now i put the new rims and 37" tires and my ride has went to crap again, i have not cranked the torsion bars and the shop was running about 45# of pressure in the tires so i lowered to 40# which i still think is too much. So my question is what pressure is suitable for Mickey tompsan MTZ 37 tires, Do you think it is the tires that made the ride quality go to crap, how much room should i have between the bump stops in the front because i can only stick my finger inbetween them. And also does anybody rear end creek after blocks installed or new gears, when i put the lift and new gears it creeks like hell when i put it in gear and tension is put on the rear end, kinda wants to sound like the brakes but i think it is the suspension. Any help is appreciated.

 

1. Have the tires balanced
2. Have the truck aligned
3. Change the shocks? Are they good?
4. Tie Rods are they good?
5. Sway Bar endlinks are they good?
6. Is everything installed properly
7. Ball Joints are they good?
8. Since lifting the truck has it been aligned?
9. Since Uncranking the T-bars has the truck been aligned?

 

1. Have the tires balanced / Yes the shop balanced but i might have them redo them just to be sure.
2. Have the truck aligned / It has been realigned after the lift then again because they had not tightned the camber bolt good and it turned so they had it realigned and i have marks to make sure they do not turn again and they are still good.
3. Change the shocks? Are they good? / they are new fabtech and it rode fine with the 35" tires not but 2 weeks before i put the 37' tires.
4. Tie Rods are they good? / Yes the shop checked all before install because they changed my upper and lower ball joints.
5. Sway Bar endlinks are they good? / I hope dont know everything is tight nothing loose.
6. Is everything installed properly / to the best of my knowledge everthing looks good and i checked everthing is tight and nothing is loose.
7. Ball Joints are they good? / brand new.
8. Since lifting the truck has it been aligned? / twice
9. Since Uncranking the T-bars has the truck been aligned? / after the lift.

 

ok with all that said id say your problem most likely is in the tires. Most likely they are balanced, What method did they use? I know they used some stupid stick on craps on my tirers and they came off a day later.

Id have them rebalance them just to be sure, the worst would be that they are balanced but at least you eliminated that.

If the tires are balanced then you might have a bad tire. This is becoming more popular, 1 tire with a bad belt will make the whole truck ride like pure hell.

another thing is you might just not be used to it, What brand and model tires were the 35's. We know the 37's are MTZ's. A bigger tire will always be slightly rougher.

 

If you are just referring to the truck riding stiffer, it is probably the tires themselves (their construction, not a defect). What kind of 35's did you have?

 

if you do have them rebalanced for piece of mind, i would tell them you want to see them spin on the balancer, and see how true they are. its not uncommon for a tire that large to be a little out of round. its amazing how just a little bit off can affect the ride quality. just my 2 cents

 

It's likely your tires... one of the following, or a combination:
Out of round
Construction
Increase in sidewall height
Increase in unsprung weight

The first two are traits of the specific tire and would differ between different models/brands and even the tires within the same brand/model. The second two are the price you pay for larger tires. The ride, steering and braking will almost always decrease as tire and or wheel size increases; the unsprung weight takes its toll on the suspension, making it slower to react... the increased sidewall height will typically mean more bounce; a less solid tire. Which incidentally, 37" tires are designed almost exclusively for off road use; where sidewall flex and shock absorption is your friend... on the street, these are both your enemy.

It's the nature of the beast; larger the tire, worse the ride.

 

how did the balance them. just the spinner or a road force machine

 

Is it the same kind of tire, but in a 37"? Or did you switch types? A/T to M/T? BFGs to Nittos?

 

Same tire a MTZ but was a 35" but i located the problem they were running 55psi in all four tires which is too much for me for sure so i put 40psi in the front and 35psi in the rear and it seems a little better, still rough but i knew it would not ride like a caddy.

 

Does anyone know how much room between the bump stop and Control arm in the front suspension with a 6" lift installed. I only have about 3/4" to 1" of space and it just does not look like i would have much travel on bumps. And they did not level the front with the rear it slops to the front a little, enough for me to notice which does not really bother me but i would like to crank the t bars to get level but will it screw my ball joints again with just a slight bit of crank on the t bars, i just changed when i put the lift on and would like them to last. And i know if i crank the t bars i will need to realign am i correct.

 

I can't tell you off the top of my head, but the bump stop, gap isn't large. Keep in mind that it's significantly closer to the frame of the truck than it is the wheel. Think of it as a lever if you have 1" of movement 5" from the point of pivot, 15 inches from the point of pivot you'll have considerably more (lets say 8-10"). Also, the rubber will compress a good 1/2" under load... Don't think of it in terms of the bump stops on the rear axle where that distance is directly related to suspension travel Instead, you're working with a ratio of movement

If I think about it, and my truck doesn't look TOO dirty... I'll measure mine.

 

Also, most lift kits tend to raise the front more than the rear... lets say for your 6"...

They'd raise the front 6" and the rear 5"; that way if the torsion bars are reinstalled as per factory settings, the vehicle will be level and all suspension specs will still be within tolerance. Jacking the torsion bars will typically bring the suspension out of tolerance. So what I'm saying is, if you're not sitting level, it's unlikely they marked the threads on the set bolts for the torsion bars... this means you may need some adjusting

 

Well before the lift i had the t bars cranked to level with the 3" body, so they were not to factory specs, but you would think they would level it out. I might just level it out and realign it. how bad is bad on the angle of A arms when cranked too much i don't remember what mine were like before i put the lift.