Bilstein 5100's installed, or, things I will never do again.
#1
Bilstein 5100's installed, or, things I will never do again.
Hey, just wanted to give you guys a couple tips on the Bilstein install. (or any other strut for that matter).
1. Book says, "Unbolt Tierod end from steering knuckle, Unbolt bottom of strut assembly, unbolt top of strut assembly... remove strut." BS, that won't work unless you really want to gouge the halfshaft boot. I'd recommend removing the sway bar link nut which connects to the lower control arm. Gives you a couple extra inches, and you can just pull the strut assembly out by hand. *no prybars*
2. DO NOT try to use a regular strut spring compressor for this install. No matter what the idiots behind the parts store counter tell you, these strut springs are very heavy duty and you'll spend a long time trying to compress the springs. Besides, it's really dangerous to use a spring compressor that's not made for these heavy springs. Just remove the strut assembly and pay a shop 50 bucks to swap the struts. BELIEVE ME!
3. Note position of bottom of strut in relation to the triangular bolt pattern on top of strut head... if it isn't lined up when spring pressure is released, you will be doing it again.
Hope this helps... I used a manual spring compressor to do this job, but in retrospect, I'd never do it again. Not until I find some compressors that fit the strut well. Awesome shocks though!
1. Book says, "Unbolt Tierod end from steering knuckle, Unbolt bottom of strut assembly, unbolt top of strut assembly... remove strut." BS, that won't work unless you really want to gouge the halfshaft boot. I'd recommend removing the sway bar link nut which connects to the lower control arm. Gives you a couple extra inches, and you can just pull the strut assembly out by hand. *no prybars*
2. DO NOT try to use a regular strut spring compressor for this install. No matter what the idiots behind the parts store counter tell you, these strut springs are very heavy duty and you'll spend a long time trying to compress the springs. Besides, it's really dangerous to use a spring compressor that's not made for these heavy springs. Just remove the strut assembly and pay a shop 50 bucks to swap the struts. BELIEVE ME!
3. Note position of bottom of strut in relation to the triangular bolt pattern on top of strut head... if it isn't lined up when spring pressure is released, you will be doing it again.
Hope this helps... I used a manual spring compressor to do this job, but in retrospect, I'd never do it again. Not until I find some compressors that fit the strut well. Awesome shocks though!
#2
#3
Hey, just wanted to give you guys a couple tips on the Bilstein install. (or any other strut for that matter).
1. Book says, "Unbolt Tierod end from steering knuckle, Unbolt bottom of strut assembly, unbolt top of strut assembly... remove strut." BS, that won't work unless you really want to gouge the halfshaft boot. I'd recommend removing the sway bar link nut which connects to the lower control arm. Gives you a couple extra inches, and you can just pull the strut assembly out by hand. *no prybars*
2. DO NOT try to use a regular strut spring compressor for this install. No matter what the idiots behind the parts store counter tell you, these strut springs are very heavy duty and you'll spend a long time trying to compress the springs. Besides, it's really dangerous to use a spring compressor that's not made for these heavy springs. Just remove the strut assembly and pay a shop 50 bucks to swap the struts. BELIEVE ME!
3. Note position of bottom of strut in relation to the triangular bolt pattern on top of strut head... if it isn't lined up when spring pressure is released, you will be doing it again.
Hope this helps... I used a manual spring compressor to do this job, but in retrospect, I'd never do it again. Not until I find some compressors that fit the strut well. Awesome shocks though!
1. Book says, "Unbolt Tierod end from steering knuckle, Unbolt bottom of strut assembly, unbolt top of strut assembly... remove strut." BS, that won't work unless you really want to gouge the halfshaft boot. I'd recommend removing the sway bar link nut which connects to the lower control arm. Gives you a couple extra inches, and you can just pull the strut assembly out by hand. *no prybars*
2. DO NOT try to use a regular strut spring compressor for this install. No matter what the idiots behind the parts store counter tell you, these strut springs are very heavy duty and you'll spend a long time trying to compress the springs. Besides, it's really dangerous to use a spring compressor that's not made for these heavy springs. Just remove the strut assembly and pay a shop 50 bucks to swap the struts. BELIEVE ME!
3. Note position of bottom of strut in relation to the triangular bolt pattern on top of strut head... if it isn't lined up when spring pressure is released, you will be doing it again.
Hope this helps... I used a manual spring compressor to do this job, but in retrospect, I'd never do it again. Not until I find some compressors that fit the strut well. Awesome shocks though!
You got that right! With the first spring compressor I got from Auto Zone, the bolts on the thing stripped while trying to compress the springs (these really are HEAVY DUTY springs, the spring compressor won't even "lock" onto the springs because of coil diameter)!!!! I returned that on and got another type, the second on wouldn't even fit, it had NO chance of even working, so I returned it. My local shop by my house charged me a 24-pack of beer, and they compressed and swapped the old for new shocks...best deal in town!!!
Last edited by PhqChevys; 09-28-2008 at 03:35 PM.
#4
I used a spring compressor i rented from O'Reillys. They claimed that it should work and i was skeptical about but figured id try it anyways. The threads didn't strip and they didn't break, but it was pretty damn scary. I couldnt even get the pins to lock on around the spring because the springs were too big in diameter. I didn't have a choice though so i had to use them. I definetly would not recomend trying it though. I was pretty scared that they were going to break, it took a bout all they had to compress the spring barely enough to get it off.
#5
HAHAHA!!! I feel your pain. I just re-did mine to adjust my ride height. I've had to "adjust" mine 3 times so far.
I appreciate your effort, but there's a few tricks that make it a little easier.
1: Your directions must have left out the part about unbolting the upper control arm. This allows you to rotate the kuckle out of the way........eliminating the CV boot issue.
2: You only rented ONE coil spring compressor. The trick is to get TWO sets of them and put on at least 3....if not all 4 of compressors. I have the 3900 lb springs.....which are the heaviest available. I did it the first time with just one set. But, yeah, it was VERY scary. NEVER doing that again!! This time I used 3, and it went surprisingly well.
3: Well, I think everyone has
I appreciate your effort, but there's a few tricks that make it a little easier.
1: Your directions must have left out the part about unbolting the upper control arm. This allows you to rotate the kuckle out of the way........eliminating the CV boot issue.
2: You only rented ONE coil spring compressor. The trick is to get TWO sets of them and put on at least 3....if not all 4 of compressors. I have the 3900 lb springs.....which are the heaviest available. I did it the first time with just one set. But, yeah, it was VERY scary. NEVER doing that again!! This time I used 3, and it went surprisingly well.
3: Well, I think everyone has
#6