I know this is useless without pics but I just replaced my factory 2" with Superlift 3" blocks.

Mind you have AALs so now im really sittin high. I had my torsions cranked and I was sittin level but I dont like that nose in the air look. Plus, I like some rake for hauling or when I put my cap on.

Installation was a breeze and only took me a hour and a half.

The total cost came to $84.XX out the door from Summit. Which was the best around.

I'll try to get some pics up tmw some time.

 

Sweet!

 

cool, you did the same thing i did, except i used rough country blocks from summit racing for $55. i wanted better clearance for my firestone destination mt 285 70 17.

 

Not trying to flame you guys.....but for anyone else considering this......just remember you can also get 3" blocks from a Ranger. They usually litter the ground at salvage yards. And, can sometimes be ordered from the dealer cheaper than what you can buy them from Superlift. Also, they are tapered.....so you don't have to use any shims to adjust your pinion angle.

 

My superlift blocks are tapered and they also came with ubolts. Which was the main selling point. Thanks for the info tho.

Hillybilly - what size tires are you running on your current setup?

 

Do your Superlift blocks have the bumpstop cast into the side?? I'm running 5" RCD blocks in the back which were 160 + 50 for Skyjacker U-bolts. I got them because they had the cast bumpstop. At the time I didn't know Fabtech had them as well. I never priced them.....so I don't know if they would have been any cheaper. And, I was ordering a bunch of other crap from RCD at the same time. The RCD's aren't tapered either....and I have a slight vibration. I have 4* shims on the way.

In the pics, I'm running just 4 inches up front and the 5 inch blocks in the back, with the stock 275/65-18's. I just put my coil-overs at normal ride height and I'm at 7 inches in the front.......but now the back is dragging. As soon as my shim get's here, I'm putting my 2.5 inch add-a-leaf in the back and praying I still have enough driveshaft left. I have 35" Toyo M/T's going on 20x10's w/ 6" BS. But I'm still waiting on my wheels. Ordered them a month ago......should be here Tuesday(maybe).

Final goal is 7 front, 5.5 rear with 35's. But....we'll see how it works out. The rear end may not make it, without some driveshaft work. And I'm already thinking I may need to lower the front back down a little.

 

Cool, cant wait to see it with your wheels and tires.

I dont have bumpstop with the superlift blocks. I would have liked to have them but Im just happy theyre tapered and I do not ever have anywhere near the max payload in the bed. The most ive had was about 1500-1800 lbs. I just use my trailer for any big loads.

What do you plan on doing about your driveshaft? You think i need to worry about mine with my aal and block?

 

Hey thanks....no wheels today =( Tomorrow maybe.....

The drive-shaft is just gonna be a "wait and see" type deal. My shims just came in late this afternoon.....so I should know something by tomorrow.

One of the problems is that the rear blocks aren't exactly vertical. They are canted forward slightly. So, taller blocks actually move your axle rearward slightly. Mine is sitting nearly an inch farther back. So, the shims should put the blocks nearly straight up and down. This should pull the axle forward about an inch and rotate the pinion up a few more inches. I "THINK" this will make everything OK in regards to length. But, if it vibrates, I'm gonna have to get the Double-Cardan CV off a Regular Cab and have it welded onto my tube. Then put more shims underneath the blocks or cut and turn the spring mounts so that the pinion is pointed straight at the transfer case(CV driveshafts must have a 0* angle at the rear axle)

If you don't have any vibrations, then there should be nothing to worry about with yours. If you have factory length rear shocks, then the shocks will catch the rear axle before it could move down far enough to pull the driveshaft out. The only time you actually have anything to "worry" about is when you put on longer shocks. Then there's the possibility of spitting out the rear driveshaft.......not good!!!