Help lifting the rear higher... 2.5"
Help lifting the rear higher... 2.5"
Hey forum peeps. Sorry bout this but the more I search the more confused I get.Well, like the title says, I need some more rear lift. I'm thinking 5" Fabtech block(to get rid of the stacked blocks 4.5") and a 2" AAL. Will that be an actual 2.5" of lift? Sounds like that should do it right?
How will it affect towing and ride quality? Is there anything I need besides shocks like driveshaft spacer, shims, etc.
I swapped my spacers for coilovers in the front so how difficult is messing with the back? I don't want to mess up my Daily Driver.
Sounds like the 5" Fabtech block and AAL is a good option for you.
Keep in mind that the shocks that come with the ProComp lift have 9.7" of travel (17.8" - 27.5"). Theoretically we could say that when the vehicle is at rest the shock travel is centered, so you'd have 4.85" of up travel and 4.85" of down travel. These shocks are designed to work with the additional ~3" of rear lift that the kit provides. So if you're going from 3" of rear lift to 5" of rear lift (assuming AAL adds 2") and you keep the same shocks, you're going to reduce your downward travel from 4.85" to 2.85".
I've made posts like this before. This is exactly the same theory that applies to front leveling kits. This is why vehicles that have leveling kits handle like crap over rough terrain... it's because the suspension drops out to it's full downward travel and the tires come off the ground. When you change the ride height of your vehicle, you should also change your shocks. A suspension droop of 2.85" is simply pathetic and could be considered unsafe.
Keep in mind that the shocks that come with the ProComp lift have 9.7" of travel (17.8" - 27.5"). Theoretically we could say that when the vehicle is at rest the shock travel is centered, so you'd have 4.85" of up travel and 4.85" of down travel. These shocks are designed to work with the additional ~3" of rear lift that the kit provides. So if you're going from 3" of rear lift to 5" of rear lift (assuming AAL adds 2") and you keep the same shocks, you're going to reduce your downward travel from 4.85" to 2.85".
I've made posts like this before. This is exactly the same theory that applies to front leveling kits. This is why vehicles that have leveling kits handle like crap over rough terrain... it's because the suspension drops out to it's full downward travel and the tires come off the ground. When you change the ride height of your vehicle, you should also change your shocks. A suspension droop of 2.85" is simply pathetic and could be considered unsafe.
Cool... you're probably going to want some with about a 19" compressed and 30" extended length.
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Well the 34.9" is definitely enough; your leaf spring will never allow the shock to extend that much.
I'm not sure if the 20.75 is too much though. You just want to make sure that the bump stop (Fabtech 5" block) hits the bump jounce before the shock bottoms out.
I'm not sure if the 20.75 is too much though. You just want to make sure that the bump stop (Fabtech 5" block) hits the bump jounce before the shock bottoms out.
Measure between the shock mount on the axle and the shock mount on the frame. Make that A
Measure between the top of the factory lift block ear (bump stop) to the bottom of the bump jounce on the frame. Make that B.
Subtract B from A and hope it's at least 20.75".
Measure between the top of the factory lift block ear (bump stop) to the bottom of the bump jounce on the frame. Make that B.
Subtract B from A and hope it's at least 20.75".
hey FoMoCofan wat are ur mesurments from the floor to your fender? i got my 5100's already just havent installed them and i wanted to know how they would look fully cranked 2(1/2)" can you get some numbers for me please


