Torsion adjust on a 7700 half ton
Torsion adjust on a 7700 half ton
I've got a 2001 F150 Supercab with the 7700 package on a 4WD. I believe the package includes either thicker leaf springs or an extra spring as compared to the regular half ton. If someone can confirm that, or give me a summary of the differences, I would deeply appreciate it. I've looked around the net, and its hard to find a comprehensive summary.
Regardless, the package makes the front end dip even worse than on the standard half ton 4wd's, so I'm looking to level it up. I think I need about 2.5-3 inches. Question: Can I get that out of the torsion bars? What risks am I taking if I do that much? How much can I do without wearing the CV joints too much? Thanks in advance.
Regardless, the package makes the front end dip even worse than on the standard half ton 4wd's, so I'm looking to level it up. I think I need about 2.5-3 inches. Question: Can I get that out of the torsion bars? What risks am I taking if I do that much? How much can I do without wearing the CV joints too much? Thanks in advance.
I believe the 7700 lb. package is basically stiffer springs and torsion bars as well as stronger axles with the weird 7 lug bolt pattern. Each truck's tosion bars are adjusted differently, but most people can get around 2 inches of lift out of the bars.
Did it today
Thanks for the reply. After spending a couple hours underneath the truck today, I think you're right. Springs are stiffer, and the torsion bars are beefy. Bigger than most half tons I've seen.
My approach was to get the front at the same height as the rear, which measured 33" from bottom of the rim to fender molding. Prior to the adjustment, the front was sitting at 31". Strangely, the drivers side torsion bar adjustment bolt was already cranked down about half way, while the passenger side was only a quarter to a third tightened. Keep in mind both wheels in the front measured the same, with everything else the same (tire pressure, ground surface, etc)... I can't figure out why that is. If someone can enlighten me, I would appreciate it.
Anyway, after the adjustment, I got about 1 3/4" more in the front. I would like to get more, but there is no more adjustment on the drivers side.
That brings me to my question. Has anyone seen any adverse impact with having the adjustments tightened all the way? Also, I noticed a thud when I was turning tight into a parking spot. I suspect it is the wheel, but what else could it be?
Thanks for all the help, I read everything I could on this work and couldn't have done it without this site. Now I need an alignment!
My approach was to get the front at the same height as the rear, which measured 33" from bottom of the rim to fender molding. Prior to the adjustment, the front was sitting at 31". Strangely, the drivers side torsion bar adjustment bolt was already cranked down about half way, while the passenger side was only a quarter to a third tightened. Keep in mind both wheels in the front measured the same, with everything else the same (tire pressure, ground surface, etc)... I can't figure out why that is. If someone can enlighten me, I would appreciate it.
Anyway, after the adjustment, I got about 1 3/4" more in the front. I would like to get more, but there is no more adjustment on the drivers side.
That brings me to my question. Has anyone seen any adverse impact with having the adjustments tightened all the way? Also, I noticed a thud when I was turning tight into a parking spot. I suspect it is the wheel, but what else could it be?
Thanks for all the help, I read everything I could on this work and couldn't have done it without this site. Now I need an alignment!
To add to my last post, and this might be the wrong section, but I'm starting to feel that this 7700lb. package is a joke. In all reality, there are very few people in the world that would ever need the incremental difference in payload and still want a half ton. Even more, the ride offered by a lighter truck is null due to the beefier springs, etc. Add to that the limited availability of brake and wheel parts for the crazy 7-lug rims.
Don't misunderstand, its a great truck built like a Ford, but I am starting to understand why it didn't take in the marketplace. Maybe I should just park it for fifty years until its an antique!
Don't misunderstand, its a great truck built like a Ford, but I am starting to understand why it didn't take in the marketplace. Maybe I should just park it for fifty years until its an antique!
It's not unusual for the two sides to be adjusted differently. As for your adjustments, just take a look and make sure your CV joints don't appear to be at too bad of an angle. I think you will be fine. Just don't forget to get your front end aligned. I have to admit, I've thought the same thing about the 7700 lb package. I'm surprised that Ford contiues to produce it.
Sorry, but I actually like the springs (and the entire package)... but if you came to me with a set of 16 inch 7 lug rims, I'd probably trade the whole truck! I'm having one hell of a time finding a decent 16 inch rim.
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The main differences were the Sterling 10.25 7-lug rear axle, the 7-lug front hubs (with the same bearings in 'em) and the longer and stiffer front torsion bars.
That's really about it.... everything else was pretty much the same.
-Joe
That's really about it.... everything else was pretty much the same.
-Joe
f 150 is a popular truck no need to make it try to be like a 250. might as well put a 350 fender badge on a ranger...i had a dakota before my 150 and let me tell you there is NO comparison.dakota is marketed as a half ton. i couldnt believe how beefy the 150 frame was. built so much more rugged,better brakes,ill give dodge credit on the 318 it had decent power but..thats about it
Last edited by keith97xlt; Jan 2, 2007 at 06:07 PM.
7700 at least mine 2000 xlt extra cab 4x4 has the 4r 100 trans and larger rear diff. I think it was the only 2000 f150 with 4 wheel disc brakes. I like the ride much better than regular f150. Put 2000lbs in the back of a 7700 and a regular f150 and see which you would rather have.


