Alignment Specs to reduce Wandering
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Alignment Specs to reduce Wandering
The dealer aligned my vehicle at the 15,000 service interval. Before then, the truck tracked PERFECTLY on every road. After that alignment, the wheels didn't snap back to center very much, and it wandered very easily, especially to the left.
I just had another shop do the alignment, because they will give me a lifetime alignment, and print out the specs. I wished I could have gotten my original specs, but they said they couldn't. Anyhow, it is better, but it still doesn't feel anywhere near like it did originally, or other folks' trucks.
This time, I have the following after they installed different bolts to allow further camber/caster adjustment:
Camber:
Caster:
Toe:
Cross Camber: 0.18°; Range: -0.70° to 0.70°
Cross Caster: -0.55°; Range: -1.20° to 0.20°
Total Toe: 0.26°; Range: -0.19° to 0.31°
He tells me he sets it up so it pulls slightly to the left to account for the roads being crowned with the high end being on the left. Is it possible they just don't do this in Texas much anymore? Or is this really a good thing to do. I have certainly heard of it before. But, if my truck was made in Canada, perhaps they didn't account for this, letting my alignment be so nice, and then when it was 'adjusted' for the crown, it ruined it.
I just want to be able to pull my hand off the wheel for more than 2 seconds to do something. At the moment, on some roads, like IH-35 (between Austin and San Marcos, TX), I'll be off the road in 7-10 seconds.
Any advice is appreciated!
I just had another shop do the alignment, because they will give me a lifetime alignment, and print out the specs. I wished I could have gotten my original specs, but they said they couldn't. Anyhow, it is better, but it still doesn't feel anywhere near like it did originally, or other folks' trucks.
This time, I have the following after they installed different bolts to allow further camber/caster adjustment:
Camber:
- Left Front - Actual: -0.13°; Range: -1.00° to 0.40°
- Right Front - Actual: -0.31°; Range: -1.00° to 0.40°
Caster:
- Left Front - Actual: 6.81°; Range: 5.20° to 7.20°
- Right Front - Actual: 6.35°; Range: 5.70° to 7.70°
Toe:
- Left Front - Actual: 0.12°; Range: -0.10° to 0.16°
- Right Front - Actual: 0.14°; Range: -0.10° to 0.16°
Cross Camber: 0.18°; Range: -0.70° to 0.70°
Cross Caster: -0.55°; Range: -1.20° to 0.20°
Total Toe: 0.26°; Range: -0.19° to 0.31°
He tells me he sets it up so it pulls slightly to the left to account for the roads being crowned with the high end being on the left. Is it possible they just don't do this in Texas much anymore? Or is this really a good thing to do. I have certainly heard of it before. But, if my truck was made in Canada, perhaps they didn't account for this, letting my alignment be so nice, and then when it was 'adjusted' for the crown, it ruined it.
I just want to be able to pull my hand off the wheel for more than 2 seconds to do something. At the moment, on some roads, like IH-35 (between Austin and San Marcos, TX), I'll be off the road in 7-10 seconds.
Any advice is appreciated!
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Adjustment for road crown should not wear tires. I like to see the cross toe closer to 0 degrees to prevent tire wear.
If they dial in a little more caster closer to that 7 degree plus, you can get that snap back. Just make sure the cross caster is still in spec. The cross cater being out will cause a pull. That -0.55 is what they are using to correct for road crown.
If they dial in a little more caster closer to that 7 degree plus, you can get that snap back. Just make sure the cross caster is still in spec. The cross cater being out will cause a pull. That -0.55 is what they are using to correct for road crown.