I would think before using blocks in the front. I have seen awful (vary mangled bodies) accedents due to front blocks popping off. I would go with some 8" coils and a set of spacers from a leveling kit for the front. The spacers usually run around 2". They mount up top and are bolted in place. You can get custom 10" leaves for about $700.00. Then you have no blocks, and no frontend suddenly departing the truck.

 

Again were not on the same page.. I said forget the front blocks.. I plan on adding a spacer on underneath the suspension.. meening a block adding on again.. in the rear.. i plan on adding more on the rear.. i am gonna forget the front even though im gonna do a conversion to the solid front.. but yes its possible.. its pretty much a body lift.. you can get any size block to fit under there.. pending on how u treat ur truck... how u think u see trucks over 35"s of lift.. they maybe have 20"s of lift.. the rest are blocks.. you need to go to some real hot texas truck shows 2 see what i meen u look under there truck they got a block in the rear the size of a persons head.. so its very possible.. My question is i plan on at least adding another 4"s of block in the rear.. so yeah the back would sit a little higher than usually which is normal but just a inch or two higher.. and yes its possible.. because.. im in the process of it.. and we already did a buddy of mines truck same year model etc.. he just barely has a 2" block under the suspension and it didnt look much different but u can tell theres acourse more clearence for the tire in the rear.. so i dont know if were on the same page or what lol.. but i really appreciate all the help.. really i do.. i guess ill just go down to texas heatwave this next upcomeing week in corpus.. and get some insiders.. but again i appreciate everything.. later guys

 

Um, I think we are on the "same pagE" you just arent taking it in.

Theres only so much lift you can put on there with blocks (or spacers whatever you want to rephrase it as), and have the truck still be safe.

You keep talking about putting a bunch of lift on the rear, but you havent said much about the front. If you have a 5.5" difference between the front and rear, thatll look goofy as Ill get out.

Either way...good luck.

 

I've already talked to The king of the texas heatwave known as Avalanche Crusher.. hes known down here for customizeing alot of trucks.. He was thinkin the exact same thing i was thinking.. Go with the 10" Suspension 3" Body, 4" Block, and Get The New Leveling Kit that came out with the same susepnsion im getting they already come with everything i need to exactly even out the truck with the 4" block.. they make them 1-4"s so ill go with the max.. of 4" Being i can Lift my truck exactly 17"s im happy with that.. 1 inch shorter of what i was shooting for.. so thanks for everything.. all under control.. and i put this guy over anyone.. being he totally made a handmade custom dana axle.. so yeah.. thanks again though for everything.. johngs.. thanks and all the others.... He said i could eazily Fit 49"s with a half inch of trimming.. But this truck will be show and an offroad beast.. so im set on the 44" boggers.... ill be sure 2 post everything up when shes done.. shell be done by the end of december.. again thanks for everyones opinions.. and some facts.. thanks alot again.. later guys

 

Am I the only one with no clue what these 5" "blocks" are he keeps referring to??? :dunno

Any standard lift kit for the front IFS will have a sub-frame that drops the lower control arms and front drive axle farther down from the frame. That's what gets you the lift on the front end.

At the rear, there are two choices: Spacer blocks that go between the axle and leaf spring (a BIG no-no) or a new leaf spring with the proper arch for the lift.

Now, there are another set of lift blocks that can be used to lift the body further off the frama (aka a BODY lift). The tallest kit I've ever seen for that is 3". Any more than that and you get some serious issues with the cab trying to twist off the frame perches.

Now, were you to use a 6" suspension lift and a 3" body lift, you should be able to clear 38s. Where you will gain the additional lift to clear 44s on an IFS is beyond me.

-Joe

 

no biggy now.. Everything is set

10" Suspension
3" Body
4" Rear-Spacer Blocks
Rear-Timeing/Axle Alignment
And Leveling Kit made by the manufactor from the suspension kit im going with.. have already talked too, about 5 people now.. that have done the these very steps.. and runs flawlessly, and yes i was told very well worth looks and off-road timeing.. acourse im getting bigger stronger driveshafts,u-bolts,etc.. and the axle conversion.. and another thing im driveing to see a truck that has exactly the options im going with.. so my truck will be running 17"s of lift sitting on 44" tires without a doubt.. unless i abuse her.. and flip the axle frame.. which i highly doubt that.. but everything is set and fine.. thanks for trying 2 help.. but im sorted and got everything i want and need 2 know again thanks for helping in any way you could.. later guys

 

you must have like $20,000 or so just burning a hole in your pocket, you will need a solid axle up front pref. dana 60 and a dana 60 in the rear, these are not cheap, you will need a custom suspension setup in the front to get anywere near 17" of lift in the front, your transfer might need to be lowered, custom driveshafts you will need to regear those dana axles down way low for that large a tire, you will want to supercharge your truck if you want it to go anywere very fast, you will get about 8 MPG on a good day, and when i said $20,000 i was being very nice probably more like $40,000, just want you to know what you are getting into,and anything over a 4" block is not very safe in my opinion, you should get reindexed or custom made leaf springs, and your steering will need to be upgraded to a hydrolic one or you will blow out your power steering pump everyime you go anywere not to mention your steering gear, your steering will have to be fabricated, i am just scratching the serface of all the things you will need to keep it dependable and to be able to actualy hit any trails, good luck

 

The math doesn't add up.

FRONT: 10" suspension lift, 3" body adds up to 13" of lift.

REAR: 4" blocks between the axle and spring plus 3" of body lift is only 7" of lift and not nearly enough to clear 44s.

Now, if you lift the rear 10 with re-arched springs, THEN added a 4" block and 3" body lift, then you might, just might, clear 44s.

Now, what about re-gearing the rear end? Good luck there! Try driving 44s with a 4.6, 8.8 rear, 3.55 gears.... can you say, DAWG?

Can't get the links to post, but we had a guy here in MI that was running 38s with 6" of suspension lift in front, 4" blocks in the rear suspension, and a 3" body lift. He used 4" blocks on the rear end. He spent the day trying to repair it after it spit the blocks out, twisting the axle pinion upwards, snapping the driveshaft and both shocks.

Don't plan on doing anything remotely hard-core. It won't hold up with lift blocks in the rear suspension.

-Joe

 

Okay obviously none of you people go to truck shows.. because none of you are experienced with none of this.. trust me.. im going to spend no more than $9,000 on everything thats gears,axlereplacement etc.. no labor work.. guys doing it for free.. im a hand to help him.. so yeah.. ur 40,000 is just redicilous.. maybe ur smokeing something? no clue.. but thats just outrageous of you to say that lol... so funny man.. no telling what ur on.. but anyways on to my point.. like i said everything is taken care of.. i dont need anymore comments.. someone just go ahead and close this thread.. or leave it.. everything is under control.. and yes there is a local 01 supercrew with 10" suspension.. 3" body and is running 44" truxxus no problem.. with 4:11 gears.. in the rear.. front stock.. so yeah.. dont tell me its not possible when its right in front of me.. lol obviously u have no clue what ur talking about anyways my point is i said thanks for u people for trying 2 help but obviously none of u have.. so again thanks and have a nice day.. i meen its pretty simple.. everything is taken care of.. and is in the process.. and yet the comments keep rolling in.. doesnt make sense.. start a new thread.. or something again final post leave it at this.. everything is taken care of.. period..?

 

so you are telling me he changed his rear ring and pinion and kept the front stock? he must not have a front driveshaft or never use 4x4 because if he did yis transfer case would blow with mix mached front and rear ring and pinions, or you dont have your info right
i am sorry but i will have to see it to believe it, $9000 for a straight axle swap the axles and all the fab work and 17" lift, if you do it great but i bet it cost way more,post pics when it is done, good luck

 

You are right, we aren't into Show Queens. The rest of us actually USE our trucks.

 

The man wrote that he is getting an axle conversion. That means a Solid front axle. Once that is done the sky is the limit as far as lift goes. If the man wants to use blocks let him. Yes, it goes against all conventional wisdom to use blocks in front but that is what he is set on doing. So stay tuned for his next post on how to get the front block out of his **** after some one shoved it there when it got spit out and hit the guy's rig.

JMC

 

maybe you can take the blocks in your head and stick those on the rear end. that should be good for at least 6"

 

u keep sayin u have it under control and need no more help yet u started the thread!?! dont post it if u dont want the help. "off road beast" i doubt that. your gonna break sumthin hopin a curb.