How to get more "Flex" from your F150?
Get more "Flex" from your F150?

The above picture shows a large suspension "rod-like" bar that goes to the rear axle. I was wondering what that is called, and are they on stock trucks? It says procomp on it, what is it and what does it do for you?
What are torsion bars and do they provide greater flex (complete guess)?
Lastly, as the title says, I am hoping these things provide more "flex" for the f150, let me know what will do the trick, thanks. (Also a rough price estimate next to each of those parts would be nice, I'd like to know how much each of these questions would cost). Will a simple 6" fabtech and 3" body lift reach the goal? The goal is below:

Images courtesy of bigtruck311.
Last edited by Josiah; Aug 20, 2005 at 08:59 AM.
Those bars/apparatus are actually called ladder bars, originally designed for race cars. The primary purpose of that system is to prevent axle housing twist. When you install softer longer suspension it is really easy to twis your axle housing and snap springs or u-joints. By installing ladder bars the axle stays in alignment with the drive shaft angle.
The leaf springs (barely visible) are what holds the truck up, not torsion bars.
Torsion bars are just a solid bar that is twisted to support the vehicle. On most independent suspension 4x4 trucks use this and it goes into the front control arm and back parallel to the frame mounting on some location under the cab. This mounting location is usually also the tension location for determining the amount of force applied to the torsion bar affecting ride height and stiffness.
I hope this clears it up....
The leaf springs (barely visible) are what holds the truck up, not torsion bars.
Torsion bars are just a solid bar that is twisted to support the vehicle. On most independent suspension 4x4 trucks use this and it goes into the front control arm and back parallel to the frame mounting on some location under the cab. This mounting location is usually also the tension location for determining the amount of force applied to the torsion bar affecting ride height and stiffness.
I hope this clears it up....
Last edited by Colorado Osprey; Aug 21, 2005 at 12:34 PM.
Originally Posted by Colorado Osprey
Those bars/apparatus are actually called ladder bars, originally designed for race cars. The primary purpose of that system is to prevent axle housing twist. When you install softer longer suspension it is really easy to twis your axle housing and snap springs or u-joints. By installing ladder bars the axle stays in alignment with the drive shaft angle.
The leaf springs (barely visible) are what holds the truck up, not torsion bars.
Torsion bars are just a solid bar that is twisted to support the vehicle. On most independent suspension 4x4 trucks use this and it goes into the front control arm and back parallel to the frame mounting on some location under the cab. This mounting location is usually also the tension location for determining the amount of force applied to the torsion bar affecting ride height and stiffness.
I hope this clears it up....
The leaf springs (barely visible) are what holds the truck up, not torsion bars.
Torsion bars are just a solid bar that is twisted to support the vehicle. On most independent suspension 4x4 trucks use this and it goes into the front control arm and back parallel to the frame mounting on some location under the cab. This mounting location is usually also the tension location for determining the amount of force applied to the torsion bar affecting ride height and stiffness.
I hope this clears it up....
there are 2 way to do what you want the 4 link set up will give the most move ment or can use the skyjacker hit and get the 6 in lift the thing you need to ask is what are you going to be getting into and are you going to drive this all the time and is the cost of gas going to hurt you after you put the biger tires sin you will not get as good as you are now
Last edited by tdaily2; Aug 21, 2005 at 09:59 PM.
Originally Posted by tdaily2
there are 2 way to do what you want the 4 link set up will give the most move ment or can use the skyjacker hit and get the 6 in lift the thing you need to ask is what are you going to be getting into and are you going to drive this all the time and is the cost of gas going to hurt you after you put the biger tires sin you will not get as good as you are now
So the 4 link setup, I'll look around for 4 link suspension, thanks, any other advice? It will be for trail riding in an 04 lariat 4x4. You will come upon rocks, etc. so I need movement without tipping/rolling.
Edit:
I've looked into 4 link suspension, but couldn't find a price. All they referred to it as "expensive", no physical price range. If a 6 inch lift costs 2k or so, and a 6 inch 4link suspension costs...I would like to know rough price differences (just estimates).
Thanks.
Last edited by Josiah; Aug 21, 2005 at 10:45 PM.
www.keldermanairride.com http://www.superlift.com http://www.skyjacker.com/ you may want to e-mail them to see if they have what you are looking for i do not have a price list
Last edited by tdaily2; Aug 22, 2005 at 12:01 AM.
I believe fabtech will make what you want, replacement front suspension, removing the double a-arm front and replacing with a live axle, coil springs and radius arms that mount behind the front seat for articulation, rears can also be replaced with a 4 link, or similar to the pro-comp ladder bars, but remove the leaf springs, add coils and a panhard(SP?) bar. With coils you can get progressive rate springs that will give you lots of articulation (flex). and still hold the truck up high. you might not need that body lift with that set-up.
Good luck...........
Good luck...........
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Originally Posted by Colorado Osprey
I believe fabtech will make what you want, replacement front suspension, removing the double a-arm front and replacing with a live axle, coil springs and radius arms that mount behind the front seat for articulation, rears can also be replaced with a 4 link, or similar to the pro-comp ladder bars, but remove the leaf springs, add coils and a panhard(SP?) bar. With coils you can get progressive rate springs that will give you lots of articulation (flex). and still hold the truck up high. you might not need that body lift with that set-up.
Good luck...........
Good luck...........
Thanks.
Every setup will be different. A 4-link for the rear of a full size truck is not a kit anyone makes (as far as I know). A 3-link setup would work, but I don't like them myself. Either setup will require coil springs and/or coilovers in the rear.
For the front, extended control arms and coilovers are the way to go to stick with the IFS. If cost is not a problem, a solid front axle conversion is the best bet, again with either a 3- or 4-link setup.
None of them are going to be cheap. Custom never is.
That being said, any of the lift manufacturers mentioned above will provide you with plenty of options. The key things to look for are re-arched rear leaf springs, not lift blocks, and new spindles for the front. To gain the articulation, a pair of sway bar disconnects for the front sway bar will help.
-Joe
For the front, extended control arms and coilovers are the way to go to stick with the IFS. If cost is not a problem, a solid front axle conversion is the best bet, again with either a 3- or 4-link setup.
None of them are going to be cheap. Custom never is.
That being said, any of the lift manufacturers mentioned above will provide you with plenty of options. The key things to look for are re-arched rear leaf springs, not lift blocks, and new spindles for the front. To gain the articulation, a pair of sway bar disconnects for the front sway bar will help.
-Joe
Originally Posted by JJG052590
Any suspension mods will help you out with flexing... 




