Ball Joints and Tie Rods
I need to get a question answered. I would appreciate any help that I can get. I recently took my 2000 F-150 in to a Ford dealership for the 60k routine maintenance checkup. I was told that I needed two new ball joints and one new tie rod. In fact, I was told that my truck would probably not pass a safety inspection until I had these items replaced. My question is, is this normal routine maintenance for a Ford? This is the first Ford I have ever owned. I don't feel any kind of a shimmy, I don't hear any kind of a knocking when turning, and I don't feel extra "bounce" when going over bumps. When I yank on the right tire (they said it was a right tie rod it needed), I don't feel any give at all. I have never pulled a trailer, or gone off-road. This is after I had to have my universal joins replaced at 50k. I am just curious if somebody is trying to rip me off. I am planning on getting a second opinion, but figured I would ask people who the same vehicle if they have had the same problem prior to that.
Thanks in advamce for the help.
Thanks in advamce for the help.
Get a second opinion. However, I am not sure about your model year, but my 98 and most in that year range have non-serviceable ball joints i.e. there is no grease fitting on them. They are destined to fail. Mine lasted about 100,000 miles. When I did replace them I went with Moog as they have a lifetime warranty and are serviceable, plus they were cheaper than the factory parts from the dealer.
I just replace both my Factory original Lower Ball Joints on my '97 with 203,000 miles.
I really should have checked to see what was squeaking for the 2 weeks prior to the right one breaking.
Any way, I went with MOOG's too. Darn good parts and they can be greased, unlike the stock ones.
One thing I learned while researching the job was that when inspecting the Upper & Lower Ball Joints for wear. 1/32 of an inch of movement means the B Joint is bad.
I don't know about you. But I can barely read 1/32 on a ruler. Like I'm really going to see that small amount of movement.
I got it down to approx. 2 hrs per side on my 4x4. I'm sure it can be done faster if you've air tools but I'm wrenching' the old fashion way.
If you get the MOOG Ball Joints they include good installation instructions. Including all the Torque values.
I really should have checked to see what was squeaking for the 2 weeks prior to the right one breaking.
Any way, I went with MOOG's too. Darn good parts and they can be greased, unlike the stock ones.
One thing I learned while researching the job was that when inspecting the Upper & Lower Ball Joints for wear. 1/32 of an inch of movement means the B Joint is bad.
I don't know about you. But I can barely read 1/32 on a ruler. Like I'm really going to see that small amount of movement.
I got it down to approx. 2 hrs per side on my 4x4. I'm sure it can be done faster if you've air tools but I'm wrenching' the old fashion way.
If you get the MOOG Ball Joints they include good installation instructions. Including all the Torque values.
Last edited by DDan1967; Feb 16, 2005 at 11:22 PM.
To check the bottom ball joints have the front wheels on the ground and place a jack under the lower A Arm. Jack up the lower arm and check to see if the wheel goes up with it. If there is any play you will see the arm move first then the wheel. Same thing for the top. Although it is a bit of a chore to find a way to lift the Upper A arm. 
JMC

JMC
I've replaced ball joints on 150s with anywhere from 10k miles upwards to 150k miles. The only way to know is to ahve them checked. If you dont believe the dealer, have the tech measure the freeplay with a dial indicator with you standing there. I believe Ford's spec is no more than .031" movement in ayn ball joint....
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Just had mine replaced two days ago. What a difference. Not sure the brand name but I see grease couplings. I do not have the time to install so I had it done. $350 and it included alignments. The good news they fixed my jammed 4x4 vacuum fork for $65. One of those things, I spend my entire weekend working on it or let someone else since I have better things to do.
just hit 75k and mine are ready for replacement too, I bought the lifetime warranty ones with the grease fittings on them for $32 each. I'll be replacing them next weekend. The local dealer wanted $585 for the lower ball joints. I just can't believe the labor rate is $95.47 per hour and they figured it for 4.5 hours. Maybe I can convince the wife to pay me in new fishing tackle
you guys talk about doing it yourself is it that hard to replace. I know enough abought vehicles to and have the time, i think. Belle tire(for a lower control arm, two lower ball joints, and a tie rod) priced me at $750 dollars. 375 for parts and 375 for labor. Is it worth fixing my self or get a second opinon
I did my own. The upper ball joints are a piece of cake. All you are doing is replacing the upper A arm. You will need an alignment afterwards. The lower ones are a bit harder. You will need to pound them out with a BFH or get a puller.
JMC
JMC
Do the ball joints yourself. I recently did this on a friends 98 F150 4X2, took about three hours to do both upper and lower. Check your parts store for a camber kit and install this when you are doing the uppers. Will probably save you money during the alignment. Cost about $220.00 for parts.



