Bilstein Shock Installation Question
Those of you who have installed Bilsteins, please help. I'm sure this will be a dumb question, but I'll risk it anyway.
I am in the process of installing Bilstein HD shocks on my 02 F150 SC 2WD. The OEM shocks had a nut on the shaft so I could hold the shaft while I took the top nut off. The Bilsteins do not have this nut and it appears the shaft turns while I try to tighten the top nut. What now? How do I get the top nut tight?
Thanks very much.
Bill
I am in the process of installing Bilstein HD shocks on my 02 F150 SC 2WD. The OEM shocks had a nut on the shaft so I could hold the shaft while I took the top nut off. The Bilsteins do not have this nut and it appears the shaft turns while I try to tighten the top nut. What now? How do I get the top nut tight?
Thanks very much.
Bill
You will notice that the very top of the shaft has flat spots. Once you get the the nut started use vise grips or a small wrench to hold it steady while tightening the nut with an open end or ratcheting closed rn wrench.
Another possibility is the top will fit an allen wrench.
Another possibility is the top will fit an allen wrench.
Kingfish,
Thanks. There are no flat spots on the top shaft end but an Allen wrench might work. Of course, I won't be able to use the ratchet/socket to tighten the nut (which is what I used to take the old one off) and I question whether an Allen wrench can resist the specified 22 ft-lb torque (as if I were able to get a torque wrench to this nut).
A little cheesey I'd say for supposedly top of the line shocks.
Thanks again.
Bill
Thanks. There are no flat spots on the top shaft end but an Allen wrench might work. Of course, I won't be able to use the ratchet/socket to tighten the nut (which is what I used to take the old one off) and I question whether an Allen wrench can resist the specified 22 ft-lb torque (as if I were able to get a torque wrench to this nut).
A little cheesey I'd say for supposedly top of the line shocks.
Thanks again.
Bill
It should hold it. Once you start compressing the the rubber a little, you may not even need to use the allen wrench.
Also a suggestion. You may want to put antiseize on the threads of the shaft. If you ever change the shocks again, it may make them easier to get off. This is just the top shaft. It is not needed on the bolt/nuts at the bottom.
Also a suggestion. You may want to put antiseize on the threads of the shaft. If you ever change the shocks again, it may make them easier to get off. This is just the top shaft. It is not needed on the bolt/nuts at the bottom.
Kingfish,
The Allen wrench idea worked. They're on! Took a while, though. Turning the top nut required a short open end wrench and I could only turn it a few degrees at a time.
Interesting that the nuts that came off the OE shocks were 18mm and the ones on the new Bilsteins (German) were 3/4".
To anyone to tries this installation...one of the key tools you will need is patience...don't be in a rush...take your time.
Thanks again, Kingfish.
Bill
The Allen wrench idea worked. They're on! Took a while, though. Turning the top nut required a short open end wrench and I could only turn it a few degrees at a time.
Interesting that the nuts that came off the OE shocks were 18mm and the ones on the new Bilsteins (German) were 3/4".
To anyone to tries this installation...one of the key tools you will need is patience...don't be in a rush...take your time.
Thanks again, Kingfish.
Bill
Your welcome, glad you got them on.
That was one of the reasons I ended up buying the ratcheting closed end wrenches. Don't have to keep repositioning the wrench.
You will notice a big difference in your vehicle.
That was one of the reasons I ended up buying the ratcheting closed end wrenches. Don't have to keep repositioning the wrench.
You will notice a big difference in your vehicle.
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Porky,
My truck supposedly had heavy duty shocks as part of the tow package. With only 22K miles, I was suprised that they required replacing at all but I was not satisfied with the rear end bounce I was getting when towing my boat/trailer. I also have helper springs on the rear. For now, I have only replaced the rear shocks and have not had a chance to drive the truck enough to tell you if I see a major difference. What I can say is that the shocks I took off the truck were significantly easier to compress than the new shocks. Hopefully, they will do what I need done. If not, I may replace the front ones this winter.
Hopefully, someone will respond to you who has greater experience with the Bilsteins than I have, so far.
Bill
My truck supposedly had heavy duty shocks as part of the tow package. With only 22K miles, I was suprised that they required replacing at all but I was not satisfied with the rear end bounce I was getting when towing my boat/trailer. I also have helper springs on the rear. For now, I have only replaced the rear shocks and have not had a chance to drive the truck enough to tell you if I see a major difference. What I can say is that the shocks I took off the truck were significantly easier to compress than the new shocks. Hopefully, they will do what I need done. If not, I may replace the front ones this winter.
Hopefully, someone will respond to you who has greater experience with the Bilsteins than I have, so far.
Bill
factory shocks usu not too good..
It seems that avg - even "premium-grade" - shocks may be good for 20K-35K miles.
My GMC Sierra (2WD reg cab shortbed) supposedly had higher-grade "gas-filled", "smooth ride" shocks. They were fine but they got tired - or rather, they were different - at 25K.
So I put on Bilsteins and they are still 100% with 45+ K miles on them (70K on vehicle).
I suspect my F150 XLT (2WD std cab shortbed) will be the same.
So at 20K I will lose the Hankook tires and go to LT265s, add a 1.5" front spring lift and put in Bilsteins.
Bill Wiese
San Jose CA
My GMC Sierra (2WD reg cab shortbed) supposedly had higher-grade "gas-filled", "smooth ride" shocks. They were fine but they got tired - or rather, they were different - at 25K.
So I put on Bilsteins and they are still 100% with 45+ K miles on them (70K on vehicle).
I suspect my F150 XLT (2WD std cab shortbed) will be the same.
So at 20K I will lose the Hankook tires and go to LT265s, add a 1.5" front spring lift and put in Bilsteins.
Bill Wiese
San Jose CA
I have now had a chance to test my replacement rear Bilstein HD shocks. The affect on rear end bounce while towing is noticeable, much less than before. The ride, unloaded, is a little more stiff and the shocks had the effect of jacking up the rear about an inch. I may have to adjust the headlights.
My overall sense of the Bilsteins is that now the ride is more truck-like and less car-like.
I think I will do the front shocks this winter.
Bill
My overall sense of the Bilsteins is that now the ride is more truck-like and less car-like.
I think I will do the front shocks this winter.
Bill
OK guys, now I'm going to install Bilsteins on the front of my 02 F150 2WD. Is the installation fairly straightforward or are there tricks I can learn from some of you? Thanks much.
Bill
Bill
I really don't remember anything special for the front except for getting them compressed to be able to install. No matter what I did I could not get them compressed by hand to get both ends bolted on. What I ended up doing was using a coat hanger and looping around one end, compressing the shock, and looping the other end around the shock to keep it compressed. I would then bolt up one end and cut the coat hanger and it would expand in place.
If I had it to do over and I had a jacik that would raise it enough, I would have jacked from the frame and let the front suspension fully extend. I might have had an easier time. I would try this before you try what I ended up doing. What I did worked, but was a real pain. I wish They had shipped them compressed.
Good luck.
If I had it to do over and I had a jacik that would raise it enough, I would have jacked from the frame and let the front suspension fully extend. I might have had an easier time. I would try this before you try what I ended up doing. What I did worked, but was a real pain. I wish They had shipped them compressed.
Good luck.
To the ride question, my bilsteins were a little tight/rough-riding for the first couple thousand miles, then they either softened-up a little bit, or I just got used to them.
I was told by the place I bought them from that they would soften a little after a few thousand miles, though...
I was told by the place I bought them from that they would soften a little after a few thousand miles, though...
Kingfish,
Thanks much. As I recall, my rear shocks were shipped compressed. If these are not, I'll manage with jacks, etc. or maybe try your method. I assume since you did not comment otherwise, that it was no problem removing the old shocks?
Bill
Thanks much. As I recall, my rear shocks were shipped compressed. If these are not, I'll manage with jacks, etc. or maybe try your method. I assume since you did not comment otherwise, that it was no problem removing the old shocks?
Bill
Originally posted by bbogue
Kingfish,
Thanks much. As I recall, my rear shocks were shipped compressed. If these are not, I'll manage with jacks, etc. or maybe try your method. I assume since you did not comment otherwise, that it was no problem removing the old shocks?
Bill
Kingfish,
Thanks much. As I recall, my rear shocks were shipped compressed. If these are not, I'll manage with jacks, etc. or maybe try your method. I assume since you did not comment otherwise, that it was no problem removing the old shocks?
Bill


