Squeaks while turning

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Old 09-09-2004, 12:15 PM
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Squeaks while turning

Hello to all, I am new to this site and this is a first for me. I have a 97 F150 4x4 Offroad. I have had a persistant suqeak while turning for over a year now. I have had the upper and lower ball joints replaced by a local garage that presumately would fix the squeak. Unfortuanetely, that did not solve the problem
I have removed the shield that protects the pulleys ect and conducted my own investigation. I had the truck up on jack stands and by hand moved the tires from one stop to the other. To me it sounds like the squeak is comming from the stearing gear. I know a lot of people here have complained about the tie rods, but I don't hear the squeak imminating from them. And by the way I received my Ford notice to check the tie rods last week. Has anyone here experienced the same very loud squeak as I am? I can heat the truck turning a block away

My truck has approx. 130 k on it.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly apperciated. Thank you all!
 
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Old 09-09-2004, 01:58 PM
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My dad has a 97 and his does the same exact thing and like you found, it appears to be coming from the steering gearbox. However replacing that gearbox is a major pain so we aren't doing it... but I'd be curious to know if others have had the same problem as well.
 
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Old 09-09-2004, 03:53 PM
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I have looked into replacing the steering gearbox at:
http://www.buy-steering.com/Merchant...ry_Code=FORPIC

Pricy if you as me. I'll keep looking to see if I can find a cheaper one. I have a maintenance manual I picked up from Autozone and it looks like something I'd be willing to try and do myself. However I know those manuals aren't all inclusive. I'll have to wait until after the new year to do it for lack of funding. Has anyone done the gearbox swap? Any special things to remember? I'd also like to change out my stock tie rods with some greaseable moogs too at the same time. Thanks for any advice.
 
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Old 09-09-2004, 08:31 PM
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To both of you with the noise when turning the steering wheel..... check your pitman arm. The earlier model F150's have an issue with this. Cost about $35.00 for part, $13.00 for tool, and about 15 minutes to R&R.
 
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Old 09-10-2004, 09:43 AM
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Originally posted by Yankee7985
To both of you with the noise when turning the steering wheel..... check your pitman arm. The earlier model F150's have an issue with this. Cost about $35.00 for part, $13.00 for tool, and about 15 minutes to R&R.
Thanks for the reply Yankee!

I'll check the pitman arm this weekend. I assume to look for loosness and or wear.

I sure am glad I found this site, it rocks!
 
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Old 09-11-2004, 12:34 AM
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If the pitman arm feels tight, no looseness, have someone turn the steering wheel while you are under the truck listening for the squeel.
 
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Old 09-14-2004, 07:26 PM
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I have a 97 F-150. The problem with mine is the upper control arms are sealed with no grease zert. (Great idea Ford designers) Moisture builds up inside and rust results in the annoying whining when you turn the wheel. I use a needle point on my grease gun and poke a hole through the rubber boot and add just a little grease. It will take a little time to work in. I do this every oil change when I lube the chassis and it took care of the problem within a couple of oil changes.
 
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Old 09-17-2004, 04:18 PM
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Guys,

I found a steering gear for $150 from a salvage yard. Is this a good price?
 
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Old 09-27-2004, 09:59 AM
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Question

Originally posted by Yankee7985
If the pitman arm feels tight, no looseness, have someone turn the steering wheel while you are under the truck listening for the squeel.
Yankee- This past weekend I had the wife move the streering wheel full left and right while I got under the truck and looked at the pitman arm. The squeek indeed seems to be coming directly from the pitmarm end that attaches to the center link. However the squeek is so loud it was hard to identify. I will replace the pitman arm when I get my next paycheck (next week)

One thing, do you or any of the other members have any suggestions on the R&R? Hints, tips and things to watch out for? Is a alignment recommedned afterwards? I know in your pervious post you mentioned a tool, I assume this is some type of puller or seperation tool?

Thank you all in advance for your replies!
 
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Old 09-27-2004, 02:56 PM
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Removal is simple. Get a pitman arm removal tool from your parts store. They may even loan the tool to you for free if you buy the new pitman arm from them. Remove the nuts at both ends of the arm. The stud at the narrow end of the pitman arm may need a little coaxing to remove. Install removal tool, tighten bolt on tool and arm will come off. There is a master spline on the pitman arm that lines up with the other part. Install new pitman arm and re-install nuts. Your done. No alignment needed.
 
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Old 09-27-2004, 06:55 PM
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Thanks for the advice Yankee! I'll post how it went next week!
 
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Old 09-28-2004, 10:44 PM
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Yankee 7985,

i dont have a torque wrench and wondered how you handled the installation. Did you use a 3/4 inch socket and a cheater bar and call it close enough or ?

also, do you recall the size of the big nut? Believe it is about a 25MM or so but that's just a guesstimate.

thanks.
 
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:04 PM
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Hey guys,

I had the pitman arm sqeak, really bad too. When I had it in the shop for new tires, the mechanic said he could lower it a bit, put some grease on it, then tighten it up. He said it would only last a few weaks then I'd have to replace it. That was about 3 years ago. Still no sqeak. Hope that helps.
 
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Old 10-04-2004, 10:54 AM
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pops,

You know I though of doing the same thing instead of replacing the pitman arm because there is no play at the joint. HMMM I may just do that and see if it works. Thanks!
 
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Old 10-04-2004, 08:43 PM
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agree, i have injected grease into my pitman arm seal starting around about 50,000 miles. Truck still has original pitman arm but it is now popping (loose) at 174,000 miles. Can anyone help please regarding the questions i posted earlier? What size is that front nut (i know it is larger than a 1 1/4 inch and i am guessing it is metric) and any special procedure to ensure the replacement is on there tight.

Anyone?
 


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