What are you camber and caster numbers now?

I had mine re-aligned yesterday and the adjustment cams limit what they can do.

 

Sorry Mad., I just seen this.

These were the numbers the last time I had it checked:

Left Front

Camber = - 1/8"
Caster = 8 3/4"

Right Front

Camber = - 7/8"
Caster = 9 3/8"

However, since that time, I have added, removed, or modified rear leafspring helper springs and brackets and added front coil spring spacers. I have tried a lot of combinations. I currently have a front 3" and rear 4" lowering modified with one set of rear leaf spring helper springs and brackets and front end coil spring spacers that raised the front end 1 inch or so.

For some reason, if the rear end fender to tire space is just 1/4 to 1/2 an inch LOWER than the front end fender to tire space AND I raise the front just 1 inch, I can FEEL a very high amount of caster and I like it! haha!........it is great steering!!!!! Yet, if I remove the front coil inch spacer AND the rear is higher than the front by 1/2 to 1 full inch, I loose the high caster feeling!?!?!?!?!

Right now, I modified the front coil spring spacers to reduce the rise to only a 3/4 of an inch increase for a 2 and 1/4 inch lowering and I removed some of the additional rear leaf spring brackets. Therefore, I currently have the same exact tire to fender spacing in the front and back. I have some caster feeling but I have lost some with this combo.

What can I do to increase the caster feeling without raising my frontend higher than the back!?!?!?!?!?

 

Are the A-arms bent? I believe that the pivot point planes should be parallel to each other. I.e.: you should be able to run a long bolt through both ends of the upper A-arm. If they are not then that may be causing some of the grief.

JMC

 

Aye JMC!

NO. In fact, I replaced both my upper and lower oem A-arms with oem A-arms from an 03' with 5,000 miles on them. I even removed the oem A-arm bushings from the 03' sets and replaced them with black polyurethane versions. I also have the camber/caster adjustment kit installed.

 

Iron,

Have the shop increase it with the alignment??? Something has to be out of wack. The trucks come stock from the factory with a difference of a few inches from back to front. The back being higher and they have no problems.

JMC

 

Your point is exactly what has me puzzled. Most trucks come with a rake for load carrying. Since I have owned this truck, I have always had a rake or had it level and never could feel any caster, even though I have the caster at the max setting. While trying different combos, I tried it with the front slightly raised and the rear slightly lower than the front and WHAM!.....I had that good postive caster feeling in my steering that has eluded me for the past two years! Yet, that is the only way I have been able to aquire it.

 

Bent frame? Have a body shop measure the datum points. The ears that the arms pivot on may be out of parrallel? Stupid quesation, but did you install the upper a arms upside down? Or left to right & vice versa? I know on the 4x4s that the uppers are not symetrical but not sure on the 4x2s.

JMC

 

........I am hoping that it is something stupid that I have done or over looked! haha!

The alignment/frame shop told me my frame was something like 1/4 of an inch "off" yet within specs. for the frame. I said I wanted that 1/4 of an inch removed and they told me that the "frame guy" would not even mess with it since it is not an issue........they said that some frames come from the factory being "off" more than mine.

I do not know if the datum points or the pivot point ears have ever been measured. The last shop took some measurements from the frame and said nothing was out of spec., but I have no ideal what they measured.

I was concerned about installing the A-arms on the correct side, so i asked the salvage yard about it. They told me that the big bloch of yellow spray paint on one lower and one upper control arm represented the matched set for the drivers side. So, I am sure that the arms are on the correct side.

The last shop that looked at it, thinks it is my steering gear box valving action. However, it is my second oem steering gear box. As well as, if it was my second steering gear box, why does changing ride height affect the caster effect so much?

 

I would not trust a salvage yard to tell me if it was raining outside. No insult to any salvage yard operators intended. I just do not trust anyone when it comes to second hand parts. Have the arms checked to be sure.

JMC

 

Took the truck to a shop that specializes in rebuilding salvaged trucks. They supposely have a lot of frame/suspension/steering expertise. The tech. said he did not need to put it up on racks and check it out. He said, that the problem is with the rear end. He said that the fact that, my rear wheels are "off center" toward the rear of the fender well is my problem. So, I called DJM and asked if the hanger leafspring bolt hole near the frame is suppose to be off set to the rear of the truck and they said, "Yes" it is. They said that, after lowering it, your tires should be off set to the rear of the fender well by 1/2 to a full inch.

Then I contacted a f150online member that is a suspension expert. He said, after doing all that I have done and still having this problem, it may be a severe bumpsteer problem affecting my toe-in.

Yet another suspension expert said it may be a WEIGHT TRANSFER issue. He said that the supercabs and crewcabs have too much weight in the front/middle of the wheelbase. He said that the single cabs and more specifically the single cab long beds have a better weight transfer ratio. He said that, the fact that a very slight increase in rear lowering is greatly increasing my postive caster, appears to confirm this theory. He said as an experiment, I could put a small spoiler or fin on the end of my hard bed cover and see if it provides more postive caster. .......or he said, you may have binding in your ball joints and or steering linkage.

A custom builder of frames/suspension systems, is suppose to review and comment on my steering issue soon.

 

After a year of searching, I finally found one...........

I found a used 2003 Lightning steering gear box! I agonized over getting it all morning, but finally broke down and ordered it. I guess my lightning engine/supercharger swap will have to wait a little longer. haha!

It was $270 including shipping and comes with the pitman arm attached. The cheapest I could find it new was $500 + a $200
core charge = $700 + shipping.

Although ALL 97-03 (and 04' "Heritage") F150s AND 99'-02' Lightnings have the same 14 to 1 constant ratio steering gear box, in 2003, the Lightning received a RE-VALVED steering gear box. It is still a 14 to 1 constant ratio gear, but it has been re-valved for better "on center feel" and reduced lash for more "road feel".

After I receive it and install it, I will report the results.

 

Steering gear box arrived last week. I TRIED to install it last night and today. I could not get the lower steering shaft coupler to slide over the splines on the steering gear input shaft.

Then today, I realized (after the major Ford parts shop is closed until next week) that the 03' Lightning steering gear input shaft has a different spline "count" between the flat spots on the spline, THAN the 03' F150 steering gear box (I had removed my stock 99' steering gear box and installed a 03' F150 steering gear box AND 03' lower half shaft and coupler). Not good for Labor Day weekend!!!!!!!

Guess, my truck will be down until at least next Tuesday.

 

Did not let my truck set. That evening I re-installed the F150 03' steering gear box.

The following week, I ordered the coupler/u-joint/half-shaft assembly pulled from the same 03' Lightning at the salvage. It came in this week. However, they sent me both the lower AND upper shafts as a complete assembly. This morning before going to work, I installed the steering shaft assembly and the 03' Steering gear box and then drove it to work.

Results:

1. A little better steering wheel return. Made the truck feel like I had a little more caster.

2. A little harder to turn. Before, the steering was too easy. "Feels" like the effects of bumpsteer have decreased somewhat.

3. Steering wheel "wants" to stay centered more.

4. Steering "feels" more connected to the road.

5. For me, it was well worth $270 for the steering gear box and $75 for the steering shaft assembly.

6. I turned the adjustment screw about 1/5th of a full turn and improved the performance of the box.

7. Although, the re-valved 03' Lightning steering gear box is an improvement and worth what I paid for it used, for me, I could not justify spending $500+$200 (corecharge)=$700 for a new one.

To recap:

I have a 99' F150. I installed a 03' F150 steering gearbox and lower steering shaft assembly. This morning, I installed an 03' Lightning steering gearbox and lower/upper steering shaft assembly.

Note: Before you remove the steering gear box, unhook the postive cable AND negative cable AND wait at least an hour before begining the procedures ( manual says at least two minutes, but I waited 4 hours before beginning), to disarm the airbag system. The Haynes manual also mentioned something about unhooking the starter relay cable and to see another section for details, yet in the "Disarming Airbag" section, there was no mention of the relay cable, therefore, you may wish to consult an expert about disabling the airbags before beginning this procedure.

Also, before removing the steering shaft, mark the shaft and coupler with the steering wheel "pointing" straight ahead, so that you will know the correct postion or your steering wheel will be "off". I used liquid "White Out" It was actually easier to install the entire steering shaft assembly, than to install only the lower half shaft. At both ends of the shaft is a coupler. One end connects to the steering gear input splined shaft and the other end has a coupler for the steering wheel (there is an airbag sensor somewhere near the steeringwheel so proceed with caution and or seek expert assistance ) . Make sure you torque the coupler "pinch" bolts correctly. The large rubber bushing that surrounds the shaft and seals at the firewall can be pushed in and out very easily.

Note: I added no. 6 and no. 7 to my results list.

 

Here's a special thanks to IronHorse for all the research, time and money in trying to diagnose this problem and sharing the results.

 

I HAD UPPER & LOWER BALL JIONTS REPLACED & SWAYBAR BUSHING REPLACED& TIE ROD ENDS DONE TOO, AND ALIGNMENT DONE AND I STILL HAVE THE
WIGGLE IN TH WAGGLE GOING DOWN THE ROAD. MY NEXT THOUGHT IS MYBE IT IS IN THE BACK END MYBE I HAVE AXLE PLAY LEFT TO RIGHT