Does anyone know if the HD shocks that came with my '99 XLT 4.6L with the tow package, are the same shocks as those that are included in the ORP? They both say they are "HD", to what extent, I don't know. Any info. could be helpful, thanks!

 

Yes, the same shocks. Do yourself a favor and get rid of them. Even the worst aftermarket shock is an improvement.

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1999 F-150 4x4 XLT SC FS ORP Dark Graphite interior, Dark Toreador Red, Power (Driver's) Captain's Chairs, 6 Disk CD, Remote Keyless Entry, Rear Slider
5.4, 3.73
Mods:
Manik grill guard, Westin Nerfs, Lund Moon Visor, Leer TSC600 hard bed cover, Duraliner Drop-in bed liner. Deflecta Shield II bug guard, Ford Vent Visors, Remote Start, Lojack, Airaid FIPK.
Rancho RS-9000
Issues:
5.4 "Slapper" replaced with New 2K at 12k mi.
Driver's Door Crack Repaired at 15k mi.
Leaky Slider repaired
New A/C compressor
New GEM to fix 4x4 engagement issue

 

Are they also the same as in the Supercrew with ORP and TP?

It rides pretty good, I thought, so what kind of improvement could I expect with say RS-9000's or maybe Bilsteins? Thanks.

 

I was not happy with the ride of my SCrew (ORP). It rode okay on smooth surfaces but not on rough stuff, especially when empty.

I just had a set of Rancho RSX shocks installed and could tell a difference imediately! The small bumps that used to jar and jolt the truck are smoothed out. You still know you are in a truck but the RSX's took a lot of the the "sharpness" out of the ride. They are difinitely worth the upgrade.

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2001 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat 4x4 5.4L
2000 Suburban LT 4x4 5.3L
2000 Honda RC51
1999 Mustang GT Convertible

 

The 9000s are adjustable with 5 settings. From the softest "1" to kidney belt "5"
I'm running "4" on the front and "2" on the rear.
How the ride and handeling improved is beyond words!
Rancho makes the best shocks I personaly have used. Had the 5000s on my old Bronco. They were good but nothing like the 9000s.

Like I said, anything other than the stock HD shocks will be an improvement.

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1999 F-150 4x4 XLT SC FS ORP Dark Graphite interior, Dark Toreador Red, Power (Driver's) Captain's Chairs, 6 Disk CD, Remote Keyless Entry, Rear Slider
5.4, 3.73
Mods:
Manik grill guard, Westin Nerfs, Lund Moon Visor, Leer TSC600 hard bed cover, Duraliner Drop-in bed liner. Deflecta Shield II bug guard, Ford Vent Visors, Remote Start, Lojack, Airaid FIPK.
Rancho RS-9000
Issues:
5.4 "Slapper" replaced with New 2K at 12k mi.
Driver's Door Crack Repaired at 15k mi.
Leaky Slider repaired
New A/C compressor
New GEM to fix 4x4 engagement issue

 

Screwdriver- The RS9000s have 2 nice features. You can set them to your preference and you can crank them up for offroading/heavy towing.

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2000 F-150 XL, RC, LB, 5.4L, 4R70W, 4.10LS,
Class III tow, Payload #3, & Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS, Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner w/Paintsaver & gas/wheel/spare locks,
K&N F.I.P.K. w/Outwears pre-filter, Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back w/ 3" Y-pipe,
Hellwig front & rear anti-sway bars, Rancho RS 9000s,
Pirelli Scorpion Zero 275/60/16s, Mobil 1, K&N oil filter.

 

Sounds like RS-9000's to me. Is it it too much of a job to install the shocks(without controller) for a sometime shadetree hacker mechanic like me or should I have it done. Trucks' like new.
Also where's the cheapest place to get them? Thanks.

 

I ordered mine from 4wheelparts.com. All 4 for $265 and free ground shipping. No remote.
I was going to install them myself, but came to my senses. The fronts should be no problem, but the rears were a pain. One of my OEM shocks had to be cut off because the top nut was siezed. Also there is not much room to swing a wrench up by the bed. Take a look for yourself. If I had the correct tools and a garage I might have been able to do 3 out of the 4. There is no way I could have cut the 4th off myself without a tourch.
It took a pro about 2 1/2 hours to do all 4 shocks. Half of that time was spent getting the siezed one off.
Good luck!

 

I bought at 4wheelparts as well. If you have the tools, it's a extremely easy job.

 

Which leads to my next dumb question, what tools do I need? Besides jack and stands.

 

Max,

I just ordered 4 Edelbrock IAS. The front shocks look like a piece of cake, but I'm not so sure about the rears. Did you use an air ratchet and deep socket to reach over the frame, or did you go through the hole in the frame?



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2000 F-150 XLT Supercab 4X4,5.4,Off Road,Tow Pkg

 

OPIE- The hole in the frame will not allow any ratcheting room. There is a 3-4" gap above the frame, under the bed; you can access the nuts from inside the fenderwell. I used a deep socket and a 3/8" ratchet. My factory shocks had a holding nut made onto the top of the piston rod.

Screwdriver- A 3/8" ratchet, 4)sockets (2 deep sockets; old and new sizes, they're different sizes), 2 open-end wrenches, WD-40, locktite (if you prefer), waterproof polyurethane grease ( for superior job). Mine is 2WD; I jacked up the front to allow room for removal and installed the rears on ground.

 

Thanks for the info Max!

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2000 F-150 XLT Supercab 4X4,5.4,Off Road,Tow Pkg

 

I replaced my w/ RS-9000. I'll had only one thing happen was the **** broke off when i was 4x4, but there a great replacement.

 

go over the frame through the wheelwell. it took me about a 1/2hr w/ a air ratchet.