Tonight while at work i heard a loud noise in the parking lot and went out to check and found out my pass. side torsion had snapped??. WTF??. Whats the cost to replace it and can you get the parts local.. HELP GUYS!! it 50 mile drive home and i work midnights... need to get this fixed asap..

 

I had to order the torsion bar from ford. They have none in stock Guy said they never break (i"ll buy that), Any way how do you remove the torsion bar, do you have to remove both??. The pressure is off the pass. side because it is broken and can i just replac that one for now. Help me out.

 

buckdropper, Sorry to hear about this, but if you look up torsion bars on this web sites search, you'll find that this does happen!! There are several posts that describe the install, but you need a special tool for it. As for new bars, they're not expensive and I recommend upgrading to a heavier duty set. I didn't break mine, but I installed heavy duty ones. Here's some details:

Here's the details of what you want: Ford heavy duty bars, they're an exact fit and trust me on the specs, I did extensive research with Ford on this. The only heavy duty bars are Spring code 7 and they don't go in order of stiffness. A 4 is less stiff and so is an 8. The Spring code 7 was designed for the Ford F150 7700 lb GVWR snow plow package. They will raise the front GVWR to that of the F150 with a snow plow package. This is the data I have: Front will now be 4150 lbs. I've pasted a link for you to look at: www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/MVE7.PDF

The Expy and F150s that have torsion bars are all the same length. A bunch of friends and F150 Online bubbas have installed these exact same bars on their F-150s, mine are on my Expy and they're awesome. Also, if you're inclined, you can get some serious extra inches (several at least) if you crank them up with no problem of breaking. Remember, you WILL have to get the truck realigned after install and/or if you crank them, watch the angles on your CV axles!! They'll wear much quicker. The cost from www.fordpartsonline.com for the price of 53.00 and from the dealer, about $75 each. Here's the part numbers:
Right Side = F75Z5B326-KB, left Side = F75Z5B327-KB. I hope this helps you out and let us know what you do.

 

I am going to replace the broken one for now and order the #7's and put them on after hunting season is over (got to have piorities). Thanks again for the info on the torsion bars it is great stuff. Now to replace just the broken one (tension is already off it)
do i simply take it apart and install the new one and adjust using the adjusting bolt or do i need to preload it first??. Is there a trick to getting the new one in place it looks pretty simple.. But i have never done one before... Again thanks for all the info.

how do i get the old one out do i just hit it with a big hammer until it comes out of the pork chop end and the same with the other end.

 

buckdropper,

 

buckdropper, First you'll need the torsion bar tool (T95T-5310-AR) and the tool adapter (T96T-5310-A) to re-install it. If you have the tool, it's an easy process. Several guys on this website have done it and you could probably find the details in a search. Anyway, here's what I know: Raise and support the truck to relieve the torsion bar tension, in your case, just raise the vehicle for install. You'll then need to remove the T-bar adjuster bolt and nut, then remove the T-bar crossmember support bolts and nuts, then pull the T-bar. To install the new one, position and install the crossmember nuts and bolts (29-39 ft-lbs), then you load the new torsion bar by installing the T-bar adjuster, install the T-bar tools with the adapters in the B-slots on the T-bar tool, tighten the tool to load the bar, install the T-bar adjuster nut and bolt, remove the tool. You'll then need to adjust the ride height to even out both sides. You can take some body to street measurements, but you'll have to adjust it, then drive it a couple miles, then repeat the process several times to get it settled. Once the height is good, you'll have to get the truck re-aligned.

If you don't have the special tools, I'd just buy the torsion bar separately from the ford parts web site, it's cheaper, and then take it to the dealer to have them replace it. It will only take them less than an hour to do and should be pretty cheap. You'd probably just about break even if you bought the special tools. Only other sugestion would be to see if any of your friend might have the tool, I doubt it. I'd recommend having a shop do the install. I hope this helps. Let us know what you do. Good luck.

 

Schreiberclan: I can't thank you enough for your help, you answered my questions perfectly. I was not sure about removing the bolts on the cross member. I made an appointment with the local 4x4 shop to do it and they said 45.00, + part 53.00 can't beat the price.

Being armed with all the info you gave me helps me not look like a moron when i go there, at least i know now what is involved .

I did remove the broken one and it was a tussle to get out the hex end but it did come out.

Again this board comes through each and every time one of us has a problem and i thank you for your help, time and knowledge.

I did order the #7's ( form ford parts.com) and will change them out at a later date.

Again thanks for the help. You are the man!!

 

buckdropper, No problem and glad I could help. The 4x4 shop is giving you a good price, so well done on that!!! Let us know when you put the heavy duty bars on and have fun.

 

The shop repaired the bar and i even sold him the old one for 15.00 dollars. he said he would grind it down and use it for a prybar.
Total cost: bar 53.00
labor 45.00
sold broken one to shop 15.00
Total to replace bar 83.00

It worked out well... Thanks again.

P.S. he had to use heat to get the hex ends out.

 

Schreiberclan,

Do you know if those part numbers will work on a 2001 F-150? I just put a plow on my truck and I want to beef up the front end. Every dealer I have called have told me there are like 12 differenet part numbers for the 2001 F-150 7700# package and they don't know the difference because Ford doesn't tell them.

Sounds like a bunch of BS to me but I don't know where to go from here. They told me to get the specs from the driver side door on a 7700# package truck. I guess it lists the spring package. I was going to post and ask some people to look it up for me and came across this thread.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

biggins, I'm not 100% sure, but I doubt there would be a difference. Have you tried checking with the dealer parts guys to see if our part numbers match the ones for your truck? I'd put a post up on our website to see if anyone else might know for sure. What I can tell you is that when I did my research to find these heavy duty bars, I checked for spring codes on brand new 2002 F-150s and this is where I found the right ones. I called up north to a Ford dealer and found one that had a snow plow package on the lot and they were nice enough to go and read me the spring code data off the driver's side door plate. They were spring code 7 and this is how I found the heavy duty snow plow spring code for the torsion bars. I used this to order my Spring Code 7 bars for my 98 Expedition. I know several others have successfully used these same part numbers for their F-150s. I'd ask the dealer parts guys what the part numbers are for the 2001 F-150 Spring Code 7 Torsion Bars and cross reference this with my part numbers. In any case, you need the Spring Code 7s. I hope this helps. Let me know what you end up doing.

 

Thanks for the info! I'm going to call today. I'm also going to put up a post and see if anyone has changed these out before.

Thank god Ford wised up and got rid of the torsion bars.

Thanks again!

 

I just ordered mine with the part numbers supplied and this is what the part # says:

F75Z5B326KB $67.47 $53.98
Front suspension - Suspension components - Torsion bar
Torsion bar Right - 4wd 1997 - 2003
Add to Cart Contact Us


The first price is List and the second price is your cost.
I hope this helps,

Lonster

 

Hello Schreiberclan, * Forgive me if I have misspelled your username.

First off, I apologize if this thread that I am currently replying to a comment under is very old and I am reviving it and causing someone out there to become annoyed. Honestly, I did not think to look at the date that this thread was published until it was too late and i had already registered and created an account with this website just so that I could put in my friendly advice hopefully.

simply, all that I wish to say in reply to your advice on the Ford F150 torsion bar removal and install that you had given to the author of this thread. Or person that originally asked the question whatever the case may be. All that I wanted to say was that having the special ford specific torsion bar tools is most definitely a huge convenience and a major time saver for sure, however they are quit expensive to say the least being a specialty design tool. Luckily, in my own experience that is, these special tools are not absolutely necessary to be able to get the job completed in a smooth and timely fashion. If you still wish to do the job yourself, but do not already own the tools, chances are you will not unless you happen to be an automotive repair technician of an advanced degree, there is an alternative route in removing and installing the torsion bars using not so specialized tools as the ford specific torsion bars tools. When releasing the tension at the adjustment keys to be able to remove the adjustment bolts and blocks, you can simply use a small pulley/multi purpose puller that can be found and bought in almost any automotive parts store. When using these types of small pullers to release the torsion bar key tension it is important that the claws at the ends of the arms for the puller are not worn out or gouged up so that the claw feet will hold tightly onto the crossmember support and not slip out while removing the adjustment bolts. However, in some cases even this still will not guarantee a solid firm hold at the crossmember. To correct this issue, I have grown to the technique of using a short length of decent gauge chain and wrapping it up over the top of the torsion bar/transfer case crossmember and bolting the ends of the chain to the brackets of the pulley puller and doing away with the puller claws all together. This works quit well in my experience and is not nearly as expensive as those specialty torsion bar tools. Not to mention they are a lot more common to be able to locate and buy, or borrow. I hope this information helps someone out there struggling with these annoying torsion bar suspension designs.