I was just curious about people cranking up their torsion bars. Does this affect front end alignment? I have a '99 F-150 reg. cab 4x4 short bed w/4.6, 5-speed. I would like to raise the front slightly but I don't want to have to adjust a bunch of other stuff in the process.

 

That "free" lift (or lower) you think you're getting by adjusting torsion bars can be expensive. Adjusting torsion bars will change spring rate and camber. So you'll want to get an alignment done, which is kinda expensive on F150 types because the shop may have to replace an eccentric bolt on the upper control arm. Count on $75 - $175 depending on whether you need none to two "cam kits" as the alignment guys like to call them.

 

75 to 175???? You have got to be kidding right.I cranked my torsion bars and the truck now sits level.Took it in for an alignment.35 bucks.They did mention the cam kits but they said it was not needed.BTW the price they gave me on the kit was $100 for the set(do both front wheels).Be carefull not to crank them to far of your truck will ride terrible(stiff bouncy ride)

 

It is a good idea to get an alignment done if you do that, but depending on how much you cranked the bars it may not be neccessary. If you raise it somethiing like 1 to 2 in you should probably take it in. If you only crank it 1/2 in you might be ok.

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1997 F-150 Lariat
Ext Cab Short Box
4x4 Off Road Package
3.55 Gears
265/75 R16 Uniroyal Laredo M/Ts

My 2 cents worth

If you're gonna stroke it, POWERSTROKE IT!!!

 

Torsion bar lift, front 4x4 only:

tools:
tape measure
1/2 socket wrench
wd40 or pentration oil
18mm socket

Get under the truck. In about the middle of the doors there is a crossmember. If you look at each side you will see 2 bolts there. That is how you adjust the bars. Lube them up with the oil or wd40.

First check your tire pressure. Make sure each tire has equal pressure in it!!!!

Second, measure the top of the wheel well directly thru the center of the wheel. Do this for both sides and mark the measurements on paper. Also measure the same thing on the rear. Now if one side is lower than the other, you can adjust the lower side. Basically 1 full turn of the adjustment bolts is about 1/2" of lift.

Once you get each side level up front, then crank the bars in 1/2 turns until the front is about 1/2" lower then the rear. After each 1/2 turn, bounce on the front bumper about 2-3 times and measure. Do not exceed 3 turns on the bolts or more than 1 1/4" lift in the front. This will create excessive angles on the CV joints and cause premature wear!!!!

After that, drive the truck and check the measurements again side to side. You should have an alignment done on the truck after this for maximum tire life since increasing the A-arms above level will create a toe-in situation.


Check around different local shops for an alignment. It pays!

 

After raising the front, will the steering be off. Is this how you discover you need the alignment, or do you just need one anyway?


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2000 Ford F-150 Extended Cab Flareside 4x4 Lariat
5.4L;auto;3.55LS;Black/Silver;ORP;remote keyless;floor-shift 4wd;Class 3
Mods so far:
Lund X-Terminator bug shield; Vent Shade Vent Visors; GTS headlight blackouts; Westin Black nerf bars; Pendaliner bedliner; Genuine Steel Products (Longtek Engineering) black Grille/Brush Guard; GTS Tail Blazer II Slotted taillight covers; Clear corner lenses; under hitch backup lights (for now); 2 KC Hilites Daylighter 6" 150W black round off-road lights; Crank torsion bars to level truck; Change gold 4x4 stickers to silver
Pending
2 Polk Audio EX10 10" subs under rear seat
Wish list:
Roll bar; Lots of lights; Flowmaster 40 Series single to dual exhaust w/ 18" SS tips out back; Aluminum dash kit; Change factory striping to silver & black; White gauges; Optima red top battery; Hidden winch; Kenwood or Alpine TV/CD/AM/FM/DVD system; Viper alarm w/ remote start; Remote 5-spd Rancho RS9000s; 4" suspension & 3" body lift; 36"x12.5"x16" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/As; 16"x10" aluminum wheels; 4.56 gears; Custom tonneu cover to fit around roll bar; A 18' - 26' boat to tag along behind

Please visit Please Visit My Web Site (Updated Daily) and Sign My Guest Book
or e-mail me lariat4wd@yahoo.com

 

I bought myself some Pro Comp AT's today in 33x12.50 to go on my 98 SC ORP. Look good, but the front is a little low, so I'm going to try this tomorrow.

Now the question is this: I still have stock shocks, is this OK? I was thinking lifting the truck might be too far for the stock shocks to travel. Will it?

Second questin is related to the first: I see cheaper shocks everywhere for around $39/each (some even cheaper). Are these a worthwhile upgrade from the stock ones, or do I need to get the adjustable, fancy kind to really get any advantage?

Thanks in advance,

Jay

98 F150 4x4 SC ORP
33x12.50 Pro Comp At's on factory wheels
K&N cone filter

 

You can keep the stock shocks after cranking the torsions, after all we are not supposed to go too high with this adjustment.

If you want a premium ride usually you will have to pay more for better shocks.

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My Ride: 1998 F150 4x4 Lariat Supercab Flareside 5.4L in Oxford White/gold, ORP, Tow Package, 3.55 Gears.

Modifications:
K&N FIPK
Gibson Supertruck Exhaust System
Stepshield door sill protectors
Performance Accesories 3" Body Lift
Superlift 3" lift blocks
Performance Lift Lips
Gabriel Gas Ryder LT VST Shocks
Daystar Front Anti-sway Bar Polyurethane Bushings
Heckethorn Steering Stabilizer
35x12.5R16.5LT BFG All Terrain KO's
16.5x9.75 American Eagle 589's.

Photos at: http://www.communicomgroup.com/jmtruck

 

You may want to check the NHTSA site before you crank those rods - there are an awful lot of complaints of torsion bars breaking and causing wrecks. I was looking for something else tonight and found numerous complaints about torsion bars and door cracks. http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov

 

I have had NO problems with them in the 8 months that I have had the truck. As long as you dont go over the 3 turns or 1 1/4" lift with them you are fine. You have a bigger chance of wearing out the CV joint at that amount of lift then breaking them.

 

The NHTSA site complaints for broken torque rods appear to be from regular F150 owners who probably never INCREASED the torque on these rods. A few complaints indicated the rods broke while the vehicle was parked in a lot or garage, but most broke while the vehicle was being operated, in some cases causing a wreck. Wanna guess whats going to happen if that rod snaps while while you're tooling down the Interstate at 70 mph? More than spilling your coffee I bet.

Its an important safety point to consider when you're messing with the front end. Ii's ironic that people will hotly debate green versus orange antifreeze, but tell someone to increase the static torque load in the torsion rod 50% and its no big deal. Well, it might be after all.......

 

I cranked mine as tight as it would go and it lifted the front 2". Also it rides so much better on bumpy roads. I've had no problems, except the alignment is a little off.

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NEW TRUCK!
00 f150 ext. cab 4x4 ORP w/5.4/auto, black! Tan buckets, expy center console, tinted windows, westin nerf bars, flowmaster 40 series, remote start/alarm/keyless entry, headlight/taillight covers, Lund wiper cowl, vent visors, tono cover

old truck
99 black f150 4x2 ext. cab sport w/4.6 V8. external mods. include:
3" body lift, 3.5" fabtech lift, airaid FIPK, JBA headers, Superchip headlight/taillight covers, wiper schroud, shadeblade, ventshade, bug deflector, bed liner, tonno cover, and custom duel exhaust out the sides with 3.5" chrome tips and NO muffler. Tires: Mickey Thompson Baja HP 35 12.50 17 internal mods. include:
Pioneer indash cdplayer, 2 12" subs, 400 watt amp, remote start, and aftermarket alarm
http://www.4tssinc.com/truck
http://www.mifordtrucks.com

 

I wonder if the torsion bars are the same as a 4x4. My guess is that a 4x4 has much heavier duty stuff and can take much more punishment.

Did they mention if the trucks were airborn just before the torsion bar broke?

Now I have the 7700# F150 4x4, basically the F250 light duty. I had to put 4 turns on my bolts and there is still a 1.5" difference front to back. That is a whole lot better than the 3.5" difference it started out as.

I really wish they would worry about gas mileage on the Ford Focus and not the F150 4x4, make the damn thing level from the get go!!!

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Boss™

Ordered June 29th, 2000; took delivery Nov 28th, 2000: 2001 F-150 Lariat, Oxford White/Silver Supercab 4x4, Styleside, 5.4L, 7700# payload, Class III Tow, 3.73LS, Skids, Leather Captains, 4W disc ABS, shift-on-fly, keyless, HD everything
Modifications:
"Protected by the Owner and his 2 friends, Smith & Wesson" sticker, Westin Chromed Stainless Nerf Bars, ARE LS II bed cover, Bedrug™, Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter w/airbox mods, Pacesetter ceramic coated headers
Future Modifications
Superchip, 3" body lift with at least 33's, alarm/pager/auto start system, stereo system