I was wondering which you guys thought was the best? I am going to lower my truck for sure (dont know when). I mainly wanted to increase handling not set the frame on the pavement. I was wondering how Ladder Bars and Four-links effected the handling. Does the truck just want to stay in a straight line or will the increase handling by planting more power to the road?

Thanks,
John

 

4 link for sure.

 

HI!... OISC4X2 : If handling is what you are going for, then definately don't go with a 4-link set-up. A 4-link suspension set-up is designed for dragstrip duty only. It can be used on the street, but the driver has to be careful not to try to take corners fast. A 4-link is 4 adjustable tubed rods, usually made from chrome moly. These tubed rods are bolted to adjustable brakets that are welded to the rear end housing. The tubes run front to back and take place of a set of leaf springs to hold the rear end from travelling front to back. They are adjustable with bearinged rod ends and jam nuts. They have to be used with coil over shocks. (KONI) To keep the rear end from swaying left to right this set-up usually requires a "PAN HARD BAR" or a "WISHBONE". The "PAN HARD" bar is a cheap way of doing this but is not the best way. Because a "PAN HARD" bar has one fixed point it causes the rear end to shift to one side of the vehicle when the suspension squats on excelleration. The "WISHBONE" set-up is a way better way to go. It 's hard to describe, but it works like a MOTOCROSS bikes swingarm. I have this set-up on my PRO STREET RANGER in my sig below.

Traction bars are just a simlpy piece of tubing with attaching brakets that keep your leave springs from "BINDING" and causing WHEEL-HOP. Many times people install these wrong with the wrong length of tubing and the rubber snubber set at the wrong distance from the spring eye. These are very cheap and if money is the fact in your descission, then go with these. You can usually get traction bars from $100 - $400(U.S). A 4-LINK set-up will cost you anywhere from $1200 - $4500(U.S) and a TON of welding and fabrication is needed. If you want to go with the traction bars, then I suggest you go with a set of CAL-TRACS. That's what I'm going with in the SPRING. Check out the LIGHTNING forum for more info on the CAL-TRACS.

------------------
NEAL " THE H.P FREAK"
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 4.10L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, ***** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), fiberglass smooth wiper cowl (painted OXFORD WHITE), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, 3 AUTOMETER guage pods, filled with tranny temp, engine temp, and oil preasure AUTOMETER "PHANTOM" guages,custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, custom programed SUPERCHIP, BAUMANN ENGINEERING shift kit (on stage 5 setting)BYPASS CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE/PREASURE REGULATOR VALVE, ASP POWER PULLEYS, custom tig welded and ported JBA "JET BLACK coated headers, twin DERALE 16 INCH ELECTRIC FANS, PERMA COOL 14"/10" tranny cooler with 10" electric fan, custom ported (STOCK) throttle body, custom digital air intake temp sensor, custom ported TB intake elbow, relocated ATS.


FUTURE MODS : FORD SVT 24LB INJECTORS, CUSTOM SUPERCHIP FLIP-CHIP, BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY, 80MM PRO-M MASS AIR METER, AADI F1 RAM AIR HOOD WITH CUSTOM FABRICATED RAM AIR SET-UP, CAL-TRAC TRACTION BARS, EXTRUDE HONED INTAKE MANIFOLD, SHM CUSTOM FUEL RAILS, SHM "RACE WATER PUMP, 90/10 FRONT CE SHOCKS, 70/30 REAR CE SHOCKS, BELL TECH 2/4 DROP, EXPEDITION CENTER CONSOLE, HARLEY DAVISON F-150, LOWER FRONT VALANCE (painted oxford white) and a KENNE BELL BLOWZILLA SUPERCHARGER.

ESTIMATED H.P TO DATE : 330H.P / 425ft/lbs of torque.

CURRENT PERFORMANCE : 1/4 MILE - 14.53E.T * MPH - 93.00 * 0-60MPH - 5.8 * 1/8 MILE - 9.2 * 60 FT - 2.0

OTHER TOYS : "83" PRO STREET FORD RANGER : 351-w stroked to 408c.i 625H.P (natural), 875H.P with 250H.P "BIG SHOT" N.O.S kit, tubbed (crome moly tubing), 12 point chrome moly roll cage, 4-link with coil overs, MUSTANG II front suspension, c-4 tranny (race prepped), 4000rpm stall converter(8 INCH), 3" chrome moly driveshaft,AUTOMETER guages, 15.50 MICKEY THOMPSON rear tires, 4" M/T front tires, CENTERLINE CON-VO PRO rims, fiberglass hood - bumper - prostock hood scoop, wishbone trac-link, two chrome moly driveshaft loops, 16 gallon RCI fuel cell,etc

 

I'm not quite sure what direction Neal is going, but a 4 link is probably one of the ultimate options when it comes to running lowered trucks on coil overs or air bags. Trucks handle like sports cars with a properly setup 4 link and panhard or wattsbar. It is a 4 links nature to have lateral movement, and a panhard or wattslink must be used to eliminate lateral movement.

However, once setup properly, you cannot find a better riding system in a truck. Take a look at AirRide.com ... talk to Tony. He has a bolt on 4 link kit for you truck, but it uses airbags to lift and lower.

The only real drawback to having a panhard is in the case where you have adjustable suspension. Since you're tieing you're rear end and frame together on one side, as suspesnion moves nearer the frame, the axle is pushed away from the panhard mounting location... (pretty simple geometry)... the only real way to positively locate the rear axle w/o lateral movement during travel is a Watt's Link.... which really isn't necessary. Go invest in a 4 link w/ panhard and airbags or coilovers and you'll be a very happy camper.

------------------
1995 F-150 Regular Cab Flareside w/ 302 V8... Mods: DJM Suspension 3/5 Drop Kit, Mass Air, K&N FIPK, Dual Exhaust (no mufflers), Lund Premier Tonneau Cover, Motorsports 9mm Plug Wires, BellTech Nitro Drop Shocks, Trenz Pollished Billet Antenna, A/C Controls and, Door Panels, Superchip, Autometer 5" Tach, Precision Gears 3.73s, TD Chrome diff cover, Trenz Billet Grill, Distinctive Truck Accessories Bumper w/ billet insert and light pockets, Summit Battery Relocation Kit, Cervini's Chin Spoiler, EAI Front Bag Mounts, Firestone 26c Airbags, MAC valves, EAI 5 gallon tank, Thomas compressor, Autometer Pro-Comp A/F gauge, Autometer Pro-Comp Boost Gauge, Autometer triple gauge pillar, II Xtreme Levels C-Notch (through the bed) and bag mounts, BellTech 1" Lowering Blocks, BellTech Tailgate Handle Relocation Kit, 20" KMC Clockers on BF Goodrich 245/40/20s.

Twin Garret T3 Turbos

 

Neal - I couldn't get those pics to load. Haven't shopped around for truck suspension mods, but I think you can retain the leaf springs and just use a pair of leading links to control front/back movement and twisting of the rear end, without going to coil over shocks.

Seems to me the stock leaf spring design is cheap and simple, but is very poor in resisting side to side movement, front to back movement and twisting. The Panhard rod should restrict side to side motion of the rear end beneath the body, while the leading links will keep the axle from twisting as well as front to back movement beneath the body.

This plus a rear anti-sway bar has been a time honored approach for road racing 60's and 70's muscle cars with leaf spring rears.

[This message has been edited by dirt bike dave (edited 12-19-2000).]

 

HI!... The links are working for mr with no problems. I don't know what would be wrong for them not to load for you. Sorry.

 

HI!... I don't know what kind of 4-LINK set-up you guys are refering to, but the 4-LINK that I am talking about was designed for DRAGRACING. I can tell you that I definately would not want to be in a car or truck with this set up going around a corner or off-ramp at 60mph! A 4-link set-up does not like SIDE TO SIDE motion. That's why it was designed for DRAGRACING. There might be modified versions of it now for lowered trucks but I don't know anything about that and don't want to.lol! Just to clarify things, this is the 4-LINK set-up I am talking about.

http://cachassisworks.com/images/pkgw.jpg

http://cachassisworks.com/images/EII2x3.jpg

http://cachassisworks.com/images/Pkga.jpg

------------------
NEAL " THE H.P FREAK"
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 4.10L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, ***** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), fiberglass smooth wiper cowl (painted OXFORD WHITE), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, 3 AUTOMETER guage pods, filled with tranny temp, engine temp, and oil preasure AUTOMETER "PHANTOM" guages,custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, custom programed SUPERCHIP, BAUMANN ENGINEERING shift kit (on stage 5 setting)BYPASS CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE/PREASURE REGULATOR VALVE, ASP POWER PULLEYS, custom tig welded and ported JBA "JET BLACK coated headers, twin DERALE 16 INCH ELECTRIC FANS, PERMA COOL 14"/10" tranny cooler with 10" electric fan, custom ported (STOCK) throttle body, custom digital air intake temp sensor, custom ported TB intake elbow, relocated ATS.


FUTURE MODS : FORD SVT 24LB INJECTORS, CUSTOM SUPERCHIP FLIP-CHIP, BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY, 80MM PRO-M MASS AIR METER, AADI F1 RAM AIR HOOD WITH CUSTOM FABRICATED RAM AIR SET-UP, CAL-TRAC TRACTION BARS, EXTRUDE HONED INTAKE MANIFOLD, SHM CUSTOM FUEL RAILS, SHM "RACE WATER PUMP, 90/10 FRONT CE SHOCKS, 70/30 REAR CE SHOCKS, BELL TECH 2/4 DROP, EXPEDITION CENTER CONSOLE, HARLEY DAVISON F-150, LOWER FRONT VALANCE (painted oxford white) and a KENNE BELL BLOWZILLA SUPERCHARGER.

ESTIMATED H.P TO DATE : 330H.P / 425ft/lbs of torque.

CURRENT PERFORMANCE : 1/4 MILE - 14.53E.T * MPH - 93.00 * 0-60MPH - 5.8 * 1/8 MILE - 9.2 * 60 FT - 2.0

OTHER TOYS : "83" PRO STREET FORD RANGER : 351-w stroked to 408c.i 625H.P (natural), 875H.P with 250H.P "BIG SHOT" N.O.S kit, tubbed (crome moly tubing), 12 point chrome moly roll cage, 4-link with coil overs, MUSTANG II front suspension, c-4 tranny (race prepped), 4000rpm stall converter(8 INCH), 3" chrome moly driveshaft,AUTOMETER guages, 15.50 MICKEY THOMPSON rear tires, 4" M/T front tires, CENTERLINE CON-VO PRO rims, fiberglass hood - bumper - prostock hood scoop, wishbone trac-link, two chrome moly driveshaft loops, 16 gallon RCI fuel cell,etc

 

The Chassis Works kit is one of the best pricest and best quality kits out there. Many of us use it, and with the addition of a panhard bar it is one of the best handling systems for a truck. PERIOD.

------------------
1995 F-150 Regular Cab Flareside w/ 302 V8... Mods: DJM Suspension 3/5 Drop Kit, Mass Air, K&N FIPK, Dual Exhaust (no mufflers), Lund Premier Tonneau Cover, Motorsports 9mm Plug Wires, BellTech Nitro Drop Shocks, Trenz Pollished Billet Antenna, A/C Controls and, Door Panels, Superchip, Autometer 5" Tach, Precision Gears 3.73s, TD Chrome diff cover, Trenz Billet Grill, Distinctive Truck Accessories Bumper w/ billet insert and light pockets, Summit Battery Relocation Kit, Cervini's Chin Spoiler, EAI Front Bag Mounts, Firestone 26c Airbags, MAC valves, EAI 5 gallon tank, Thomas compressor, Autometer Pro-Comp A/F gauge, Autometer Pro-Comp Boost Gauge, Autometer triple gauge pillar, II Xtreme Levels C-Notch (through the bed) and bag mounts, BellTech 1" Lowering Blocks, BellTech Tailgate Handle Relocation Kit, 20" KMC Clockers on BF Goodrich 245/40/20s.

Twin Garret T3 Turbos

 

HI!... All I can say is, that in my honest opinion I would NEVER want this set-up on a SPORT TRUCK built for handling. I would'nt put a leaf spring suspension system down too fast. If you know what you are doing, a leaf spring suspension, set up properly, can out handle most other set-ups. For instance, my F-150 with it's suspension mods can out corner and out handle most MUSTANGS and other performace cars on the street. It's got leaf springs. My $65,000(CAN) PRO STREET RANGER has a $7500(CAN) 4-link set-up on it and I tell you, that I would never consider going around a corner faster than 15MPH with it. I value my life too much to do that. PERIOD!

 

I had to bring this back from the dead!!!!!!!! You know if some one was to be looking in the archive section( old *** post lol) of this site and read this they would still not have an answered question. If anything they would have more questions or they would give up hope thinking it was going to be to much work.

In all actuality 4 link systems have came leaps and bounds over the setups mentioned here. Hell now they are using 4 links and airbags in autocross and touring championships. See the thing is that if you want the best possible handling and response from your system then a 4 link is the best way to go. But then you also have to take into account there are also ladderbar systems and if I hear one more person say traction bars are a good solution then I will hang myself ( not really) Traction bars have no place I repeat "NO PLACE!!!!" on any truck made since 1997!! chassis since then have been improved far beyond there distant cousins. But I just felt like giving my two cents on the subject. My only advise is for all to save them selves the trouble if your going to mess with a suspension and you dont have a clue what the hell your doing then go to someone who does and for god sakes make sure you get the right help before you destroy your ride . Thanks and have a great day!

 

4 parallel links to control reaction to axle torque and a Watts link or Panhard Rod to loacte the axle reletive to center of vehicle, if built strong enough is perfectly able to corner as hard as you want. By varying the angle and length of the 4 lnks one can change the chassis reaction to the sudden twist of the axle as the vehicle lauches in an effort to momentarily drive the rear tires harder against the pavement agaisnt the weight of the vehicle.

But 4 links are by no means limited to drag racing nor was that the reason for their being. They just work well there. They are "tunable", but a well tuned leafe spring set up works well too .... just harder to tune to changes.

With a solid axle, you can angle the upper and lower pairs of links opposite each other like GM and Ford have done for years, GM since the '58 models.

Starting in '98 with the Panthers (GM and CV) Ford went to parallel links and added a watts link.

Agree, very few out there are capable of designing and building a 4 link for their full size pick up that will out corner or be near as tough as the leaf spring suspension.

Unless you severly restrict travel with the aid of cable limiters, panhard rod isn't so great but a watts link will work wonderfully even with a leafe spring suspension and positively locate the axle.