The cluncking is driving me nuts!!! '97 Ford F-150 4x4 4.6 ltr. automatic. Two entirely differant cluncks comming from the front end. Clunck #1 happens when I accellerate at stop. Also, when I back up, turn steering and then apply brake. It has progressively increased in sound since I got truck 11mths ago. Clunck #2 happens when after use, engine shut off and cooling down. If one stays in vehicle, after about 3-4 minutes I hear a loud clunck and feel the suspension (truck) move. A series of clunck get lower in sound as engine cools. Suspect manifolds cooling but what moves the truck that much? Took it to deal and they gave me the run around and I didn't have the time to argue . Want to identify problem if could prior to taking it again soon. Any suggestions PLEASE!
Rey Santillan.

 

I had a definite drivetrain clunk when shifting between gears (automatic), or when coming to a stop. The dealership replaced the entire driveshaft assembly under warranty. No more clunk. Hope this helps.

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2000 XLT Black Sport, Flareside, 2WD, Ext. Cab, 5.4L Auto. Other factory options: 3.55 LS, Class III tow, 6-way Captains chairs w/CD changer, Remote entry , and Slider window.
Mods: Undercoat, window tint, headlight & tail light covers, removed "Sport" decals, upgraded Triton tailgate emblem, Linex spray-in bedliner, and an ARE LSII lid.
Wish list: Flowmaster duals, K&N FIPK or Velocity Tube, and a Belltech 3/4 drop.
Check it out at: http://home.columbus.rr.com/selva1/f150.html




[This message has been edited by selva1 (edited 02-16-2000).]

 

I'll take a shot.

Clunk number 1 appears to be linked to applying the brakes. When you accelerate from a stop, you have just finished applying the brakes. Starting up two things could happen related to worn parts. The first is a control arm bushing that shifts as you accelerate. The uppers are more likely to go than lowers. The second is a loose brake caliper.

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BLK 2000 F150 XLT 4X4 SuperCab SB, Shift-on-the-fly, 5.4L, 4R70W, 3.55 LS, 4-Wheel disc/ABS, ORP, Keyless, PWR Seat, Slider, Soft tonneau, Cab steps.
MODS: Rhino, Molded flaps, Mobil1 0W-30

 

A couple of other things to check:
there was a recall/TSB about lug nuts, were the wrong size. Do a search on that subject.
there was also a TSB about the rear brakes not fully releasing after a stop. I would also check idler arms, ball joints and control arm bushings just to cover all bases.

Hope this helps.

Hobbit



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99 XLT,4.6L Auto,4X4,tow pkge,Factory Nerf Bars and Mudflaps, K&N filter,BugflectorII, Amazon Green/Silver, Pace Edwards Rolltop Cover, maybe a Superchip

 

Thanks for your suggestions on the cluncking noise. I found the problem!!!!! "It was the Trany mount". It has two bolts one of which was loose. The hardest part about this problem was simulating the clunck. What I did was turned the wheels to the left and a second person pushed and pulled (rocked vehicle) the tire. This simulated the clunck and I isolated the noise. Tightened the bolts and walla!! No more clunck. Thanks again for your help and suggestion everybody.
Rey

 

I've been getting a clunk when I first shift into 4wheel, sounds like it comes from the left hub, haven't figured it out yet. Any suggestions?

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Gino Tedesco, '99 XLT 5.4l, SUPERCHIPPED, 3" Gibson catback exhaust,4x4 S/C Flareside D.wedge bl/Dk.graph, factory sidesteps & Tonneau cover, Manik grlgaurd w/Piaa lights, 305/70-16 Goodyear Wrangler AT/S tires
http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/s...916/index.html

 

I had the same clunks you talk about. I found two problems 1)the brake caliper slide pins actually wore out the bore they slide in and my calipers were loose. I need to replace both caliper craddles $190 each from Ford.I just hit 37K mi. and Ford will not do anything about the worn out caliper slide pin bores. This is very odd because generally the pins are the consumable part.

2)The steering column slip joint is covered with a rubber boot, somehow held about a quart of water in the collum and rusted the joint so it bound up. I had to remove the lower u joint (13mm wrench),(wd-40 the joint good)tap it toward the dash with a long thin block of wood and then work it till it was freed up good.The body settles on the mounts slightly when braking or turning etc. The coupling was bound up so it would pop instead of slide freely.I have never gone offroad or pressure washed my engine so I have no Idea how water got in this column the boot looks like new.