Best FIPK's?????
Originally posted by dcovell
Um supercrew1, though that I would correct you now as you have made this mistake twice in this post.
It is a FIPK not FIBK.
Fuel Injection Performance Kit
This is K&Ns name for there filter replacement kit....
Not yellin or anything just making sure you have it right so you don't look stupid when you go into the parts store asking for one.
Um supercrew1, though that I would correct you now as you have made this mistake twice in this post.
It is a FIPK not FIBK.
Fuel Injection Performance Kit
This is K&Ns name for there filter replacement kit....
Not yellin or anything just making sure you have it right so you don't look stupid when you go into the parts store asking for one.
You should have asked me how in the he!! I got a K&N FPIK, b/c there is no such thing <g>
Fuel Performance Increase Kit ? <g> Now I am just making up new things.
Pleae remember to bust all humps equally. <g>
Originally posted by SSCULLY
I went back to look at this, and I see that my typing need some spell check as well. I get typing in a hurry, and I see that I consistantly spell it wrong also <g>
You should have asked me how in the he!! I got a K&N FPIK, b/c there is no such thing <g>
Fuel Performance Increase Kit ? <g> Now I am just making up new things.
Pleae remember to bust all humps equally. <g>
I went back to look at this, and I see that my typing need some spell check as well. I get typing in a hurry, and I see that I consistantly spell it wrong also <g>
You should have asked me how in the he!! I got a K&N FPIK, b/c there is no such thing <g>
Fuel Performance Increase Kit ? <g> Now I am just making up new things.
Pleae remember to bust all humps equally. <g>
SSCULLY,
You need any special tools for that FPIK? Like maybe a screw driver or duct tape?
Rocks
Originally posted by Rocks
SSCULLY,
You need any special tools for that FPIK? Like maybe a screw driver or duct tape?
Rocks
SSCULLY,
You need any special tools for that FPIK? Like maybe a screw driver or duct tape?
Rocks
I see I am not the only one that needs spellcheck, but then again he had a reason...I didn't
Re: Cold Air FPIK
Originally posted by momule
Volant is the only true cold air FIPK that I've found. Has unimpeded air flow thru the tube, high flow filter, and pulls air from the factory source at the wheel well.
Volant is the only true cold air FIPK that I've found. Has unimpeded air flow thru the tube, high flow filter, and pulls air from the factory source at the wheel well.
That is why the JLP air ram & air box has the additional drake duct with the inlet to increase the amount of air that could be drawn.
If the Volant is only using the stock air source, this is good for the heat problem under the hood, but is this still starving the airflow to the engine.
The JLP airbox seems to also be a cold air draw point, with additional ducts added into the system.
Like I said, I might be under a misunderstanding about this, correct me if I am wrong....Constructive critisim is always welcome here.
Thanks SSCULLY
I was unaware of that other FIPK and yes you are correct as far as I understand the reasoning behind these devices.
In removing the OE air path we get rid of the restrictive factory air filter and tubing, especially the silencer tube. I'm not a physics major but I buy into the cold air vs hot air theory - it makes sense to me. I like everything about the Volant with the exception of the reuse of that factory connection to the wheel well and I've been looking around for a way to increase the size of the tube to the airbox.
Great to have this forum to reason these things out and find out about new stuff !!!!
In removing the OE air path we get rid of the restrictive factory air filter and tubing, especially the silencer tube. I'm not a physics major but I buy into the cold air vs hot air theory - it makes sense to me. I like everything about the Volant with the exception of the reuse of that factory connection to the wheel well and I've been looking around for a way to increase the size of the tube to the airbox.
Great to have this forum to reason these things out and find out about new stuff !!!!
Wish I had done mroe home work
momule,
If I had waited longer, and done more research, I could have saved myself some cash.
Now I have been trying to make a heat shield, and today I think I have come to the conclusion that anything I can do on my metal brake, it not going to look worth a damn, so I will be calling JLP on monday to make sure that this fits my MAFS, and replacing the K&N elemenet with the Air Box from JLP, and the fliter that goes with it.
Part of my problem in not doing the home work is my last truck was a RAM, and it did not have the problem with drawing the hot air from under the hood in the summer. live and learn I guess <g>
If I had waited longer, and done more research, I could have saved myself some cash.
Now I have been trying to make a heat shield, and today I think I have come to the conclusion that anything I can do on my metal brake, it not going to look worth a damn, so I will be calling JLP on monday to make sure that this fits my MAFS, and replacing the K&N elemenet with the Air Box from JLP, and the fliter that goes with it.
Part of my problem in not doing the home work is my last truck was a RAM, and it did not have the problem with drawing the hot air from under the hood in the summer. live and learn I guess <g>
OK So what I'm taking from all of the last few comments is that the FIPK's are not really the best solution as you still get hot air from the engine itself. Is it more expensive to do the ram air/ Volant systems and would that be prefferable over FIPK?
I like the fact the the FIPK's are basically bolt on mod, but not up on if the Volant systems are more complicated to install.
I like the fact the the FIPK's are basically bolt on mod, but not up on if the Volant systems are more complicated to install.
Originally posted by qwkslver'02
OK So what I'm taking from all of the last few comments is that the FIPK's are not really the best solution as you still get hot air from the engine itself. Is it more expensive to do the ram air/ Volant systems and would that be prefferable over FIPK?
I like the fact the the FIPK's are basically bolt on mod, but not up on if the Volant systems are more complicated to install.
OK So what I'm taking from all of the last few comments is that the FIPK's are not really the best solution as you still get hot air from the engine itself. Is it more expensive to do the ram air/ Volant systems and would that be prefferable over FIPK?
I like the fact the the FIPK's are basically bolt on mod, but not up on if the Volant systems are more complicated to install.
This is also only from off the line, once the truck is moving, the problem goes away. Also below 90*, the heat is not a concern. That is the 5 cent tour of the bad point of a K&N FIPK.
I am just playing geek in search of the perfect FIPK, and I will have a franken-FIPK when I am done. from the T/B to the MAFS is K&N, GMS MAFS, and JLP Air ram, air box.
I think ROUSHFAN-1 has a WMS velocity tube, with the JLP air ram box on the end.
A WMS velocity tube removes the 'restrictive' tube from the T/B to the MAFS, and then a add on to the stock air box, where the opening to the fender is enlarged, and I think a 4" pipe is added.
The Volant, I think uses a stock opening to the fender ( you would want to verify that info ), and places a tube from the MAFS to the T/B.
The ice-man intake I think uses the stock air box, and also just has a pipe T/B to the MAFS.
I don't think that the stock fender draw alone is sufficent to aid in the flow of air. I saw another memeber that took tubing from the front up the inside of the fender to the opening for the stock air box, to use the same setup, but create a ram air draw point, 4"+ in diameter. Yet another option that could be done with 4" air duct with a volant or ice-man to gain additiona lexternal air flow.
It just depends on what you want to do, and how much of an experimenting geek you are. I could live with waht I have, and I have no idea if the franken FIPK I am working on is going to make any difference. That has yet to be determined, I could be all wet, and out money for a marginal increase in air flow.
Also in taking in 100* air from the exterior of the engine compartment I could see exactly the same thing I have today ??
If you want a normal FIPK, the K&N is great, like I said I am experimenting with some things. I am sure that others will give their recomendations on what FIPK is best for them also. I am at ~ 950 above sea level also when the heat hits, if you are higher it could be a greater impact, if you are lower it might not be noticable until 105* ( SWAG ).
My hobby the past 4 months seems to have gravitated towards my truck due to the heat, and the other hobies will have to wait until after AUG heat waves are over, and this is the only thing that is a toy around project that I am working on at the moment, agian the reason for all the experimenting, and the search for the truth of the SOTP dyno testing that I do ( yes all this is SOTP dyno, I am not to the point of dyno testing my truck ).
The FIPK will server you well in the other non heat induced months, and give the throttle resp, that I think you are looking for. Go for it, if work were busier I would not even being giving this so much thought to be completely honest.
Appreciate the response SSCULLY....I'm still leaning toward the K&N at this point. I know that at least it will be better than the OE. Good luck on the franken FIPK.....let us know if it "comes alive". HAHA
Try a modified stock setup???
Do a search at FordTruckWorld and you'll find that they did a comparison between K&N, AirForce One, and Volant. The two open element ones (K&N and AF1) gained higher HP initially but the numbers drop off as the engine heated up. The gains from the Volant were small (almost insignificant) but remained steady since they use a sealed airbox and pull air from the stock opening in the fender. Engineering wise this all makes sense. That's why Ford designed the stock intake to pull air from outside the engine compartment anyway. Yeah the air will be moving thru the engine compartment when you're doing 65, but if you look at where the air filter is, you won't be getting much "fresh" air in that corner.
I'm going to try dropping a K&N filter in the stock airbox and replace the intake tubes on both ends with some kind of smooth pipe, maybe a little larger too. Last thing would be to relocate the intake to take advantage of a little ram air effect by adding tubing to pull air from the grill area. Volant makes a similar kit for GM's but I don't think their Ford version is out yet. Besides their stuff is expensive.
My 2 cents....
I'm going to try dropping a K&N filter in the stock airbox and replace the intake tubes on both ends with some kind of smooth pipe, maybe a little larger too. Last thing would be to relocate the intake to take advantage of a little ram air effect by adding tubing to pull air from the grill area. Volant makes a similar kit for GM's but I don't think their Ford version is out yet. Besides their stuff is expensive.
My 2 cents....
I have the WMS velocity tube, and modified my stock airbox by pulling out the restrictive "snorkel" and replacing it with a 4" sewer pipe coupling and a piece of 3.5" grey PVC drain pipe. Cost was under $100, plus a K&N air filter.
The hole in the fender for the intake is about 3.5" in diameter, which is plenty. I am now using all of this, and the installation looks very neat. It has a nice 4-barrel kinda sound when you romp on it. I think this setup beats most FIPKs. Cold air and plenty of it.
The hole in the fender for the intake is about 3.5" in diameter, which is plenty. I am now using all of this, and the installation looks very neat. It has a nice 4-barrel kinda sound when you romp on it. I think this setup beats most FIPKs. Cold air and plenty of it.
Originally posted by RamblinWreck
I have the WMS velocity tube, and modified my stock airbox by pulling out the restrictive "snorkel" and replacing it with a 4" sewer pipe coupling and a piece of 3.5" grey PVC drain pipe. Cost was under $100, plus a K&N air filter.
I have the WMS velocity tube, and modified my stock airbox by pulling out the restrictive "snorkel" and replacing it with a 4" sewer pipe coupling and a piece of 3.5" grey PVC drain pipe. Cost was under $100, plus a K&N air filter.
WMS Racing
Definitely give it consideration!
Tony


