I would like a retract the terrible things that I said while changing my oil yesterday, particularly in respect to the oil filter placement, and difficulty of its removal.
I have no way of knowing that Ford engineers responsible for this filter placement are the sons of female dogs. It was rude of me to say so, and I am sorry. I also said that they a developmentally disabled, and that they have engaged in sexual congress with their maternal parents. This also was said in the heat of the moment and is not founded in fact. For this I apologize.
I also would like to retract the conspiritorial remark uttered concerning whether the difficulty of removing a tight oil filter was incorporated into the design to prevent myself and others from changing their own oil, thus forcing them to pay the dealership or some oil change place to do what every able-bodied Red-Blooded American should be able to do for him/her self. I have no proof that this design is intentional, and this type of conjecture is better suited for those who call Art Bell's radio show regularly.
I believe that I also mentioned that the engineers responsible for this were no more intelligent that common houseplants, and I retract that statement also. I think that the chimpanzees that designed this filter placement on the 4x4 are a lot smarter than any plant.
I again apologize for the profane and imflammatory statements made during the oil change process, and I hereby promise not to make them again for another 3000 miles.
BD

 

lol...

My 99 had the remote oil filter behind the front bumper/valance, oil changes were a breeze and took 15 minutes. On my 2002, I can hardly see the filter, so I won't even attempt it. $30 every 3 months seems worth avoiding the hassle...

 

Wait until you try to get grease into the top fitting on your idler arm.

 

BD, I know how you feel. I always said if the people who designed 'em worked on 'em then things would be different.

To further the point - did you ever see the arguement (in the L forum, maybe?) where some techs were saying it's easier to do major engine work or an engine swap by actually removing the body!

 

I saw that post about taking the cab or body off of the chassis to do head work. I think it is also required to change the last 2 plugs on the drivers side of the engine.

Last weekend I changed my oil, and swore it was the last time I woudl go through that.

I promptly went insode cleaned up, and ordered the box-o-parts to put a remote oil filter on my truck. The next time I am due for an oil change it is getting isntalled ( don't want to go to the filter location this soo, I might be tempted to hit something with a BFH ).

The grease fitting, I order the tight spot grease gun adapter from Eastwood Company. It worked great, no hassles at all. This is the best one I found, quick after my first oil change so I ordered it straight away. This might be around in other places, for cheaper but I did not want to take the time to find.

Eastwood part number :49061 29.99.

On end of the adapter plugs on the end of your grease gun like it is a noremal fitting, the other side slides over the fitting until it clicks. This only needs 3/8" of an inch clearance.
www.eastwoodcompany.com

 

hey
SSCULLY do you (or anybody) have the part# list for the remote oil filter parts needed?i am due for the next oil change and i made myself the same promise
thanks
biged

 

I hope you gentlemen realize that you must turn the front wheels to either side to remove the filter. Once this is known, the task is simplified.
I have similar complaints about GM, though. My wife's Chevy Venture has the filler cap to the Brake Fluid reservoir way up under the cowl of the windshield. If someone would have turned it around 180 degrees, you could pour fluid right from the bottle, but now I need a funnel with a hose on the end. Unacceptable Design Practice.

 

Turning the wheel, now that's a GREAT TIP!! Thanks.

I only had problems getting the filter off the first time, must have been put on way too tight, or no oil on the filter seal. Now it's not as bad, still much tougher than it needs to be though. My 93 Civic is as bad, maybe worse since I have to jack the car to get at it. Atleast with the 4wd Screw, I can just slide on the floor without the jack.

 

I have a 2000 Scab.With a Screw on the way,does this mean the oil filter on the 5.4L is in a new location? It is not the same as a Scab? Screw is different,they are the same engines.

 

Yes I do turn the wheel when taking the oil filter off, found that on the first oil change, that the filter would not come out ( had the wheels turned the wrong way when I went under to start <g>).

Trying to prime the oil filter and put it back on it a real pain in the rear, and quite messy.

There is a design flaw when a drain pan needs to be welded to the truck, else it would have oil everywhere.

I am looking for a way to get the oil filter on and off the truck easier, and be able to prime the filter when I put it on.

That is my logic for the remote oil filter.

The product list that I picked up ( I have yet to install ) is :
TD Perf ormance products

TRD-1027 : Bypass plate for engine block ( 22 mm x 1.5 thread )
TRD-1028 : Vertical inlet filter bracket
TRD-1045 : Horizontal inlet filter bracket
** I think the Vertical is the one I will need, but I got both, and will return the one I don't need.
TRD-1048 : 48" Hose kit.
[ listed on pgae 53 of the summit catalog ]

There are several kits, but I did not like the hose clamp that the kits used on the oil lines.
Try [remote oil] in the search area of summit, to spit out all the kits, and the parts ( the numbers above are Summit numbers, remove the TRD to get the TD Perf Prod part number. ).

The TRD hoses are 300 psi hoses with factory ends.
There is also a dual filter horizontal inlet if you want to make something like the Amsol kit.

I just got the truck last year, and have put 3 oil changes on it. Another 5 years is a long time of going round with this.

The other item of note is that the kit uses a PH8A filter, versus the 2 that is on the truck.

Let me know if this answers you questions or not.

sms

 

Guys I just don't have this much trouble with my 5.4 SCrew. I slide under the front and reach up and screw the filter off and follw the same for the new one. It really only takes a few seconds. I looked at doing it from the wheel well and didn't give it a second thought. It is much easier from underneath.

Someone tell me what the idler arm is and where I need to be greasing? Thanks.

 

The idler arm is a pivot mechanism that is directly opposed to the steering gear and controls the steering input from the gear to the passenger side wheel. The steering gear works the drivers side directly. Look for it across the frame from the bottom of the steering gear, ahead axle and behind the radiator. The tie rod for the passenger side is attached to it. There should be two grease fittings on it, top of one end and bottom of the other.

 

LakeSands,
Guess that I am that much lazier then you and I hate the mess it makes, and trying to get that drain pan cleaned out so no oil drips is a real pain.
To answer what I think might be your next questions :
No I do not allow oil to drip in my garage or driveway, it looks very bad to me to have oil spots all over the drive.

Just my opinion on the oil change and the results.
Seems like it is 50 - 50 for pain in the rear to not all that bad. You and I represent 1 from each side, which is all good with me.

 

For 6 quarts of 5W20, and $35.00, I got teh opportunity to watch those guys crank the engine, turn the wheel to the left, and contort their arm into a yoga style maneuver, and remove my oil filter.

I think I'll let them keep doing it.

BTW- Yes, I said 5W20- That's what the owner's manual calls for.

I've own 3 different F-series (Including the Expy) all with the 4.6L.

1999 S-Cab- 5/30 Winter, 10/30 Summer.

2000 Expy- 5/30 year round.

2001 SCrew- 5/20 year round.

Same engine in design, (I thought) many different oil recommendations.

 

I know what the hell goes on in the pit, I'm afraid to use any quick oil change place.
The neighbor used to take his car to one on a reqular basis.
His wife complained about not having heat in her car one day.
Checked it out, the coolant tank was bone dry ( as in had not seen coolant for quite awhile ) and the radior was half full.
I asked her if she saw any red lights on the dash, she said "Oh yea, that has also happened).
If you got a quick oil change place that is reliable, consider yourself luck for what I see around here in any of them ( Pensoil, Jiffy Lube are the 2 spec mentioned here ).