LouScrew,

AColey's right. You just have to get a converter. Shops will sometimes refer to these as "line-out converters" or "hi-lo converters".

I think the ones I got ran about $30 a piece. If you have the shop install for you then you'll add some labor cost.

I also bought a wiring harness that makes life sooooo much easier when doing something like this. What happens is you unplug the main harness from your radio and put this additional piece in. It breaks out all of the wires in the harness so you can run the outputs of the radio to the rest of your system. It comes in two pieces and you can get it from any stereo shop.

I can post part numbers if anyone's interested.

 

Thanks Acoley NC, It sounds like a bit more work than I have the knowledge/patience to handle on my own. I guess I will need to save the $$$ to have it done right....LouScrew

 

I am interested in the part number for that harness if you could post them it would help me a lot. I would rather not splice or cut if I have to for my converters. By the way what converters is everyone using if you kept the head unit?

 

The converters I have are from Install Edge (basically Rockford Fosgate). They're called IEC AULOC Adjustable Line Output Converter. You'll need two of 'em (one for front speaker outs, one for rear).

For the wiring harness, you'll end up with two pieces. The first plugs into the radio, the second plugs into the factory harness that you disconnect from the radio. What you do then is take the wires from the radio you need (speakers, amp turn-on, etc.) and splice the rest together between the two pieces so they run back to the radio. The parts I have are from Metra. I've got a 70-1771 and a 71-1771. They're supposedly for '98 and up vehicles. Your local stereo shop should be able to hook you up with comparable items.

Hope this helps!

 

i would recommend purchasing an amp with hi-level inputs. That way you just hook the speaker outputs from the factory HU directly into the amp. This usually winds up sounding better, as some of the converters are pretty crappy and actually decrease sound quality.

Tony

 

here's what I did to achieve basically what you're looking for:

front speakers: replaced with Boston Acoustic RC820 components (come in 5x7 frame so no cutting except for tweeters)

mtx 6304 4-channel amp, bridged to sub and run components

Panasonic cd head unit w/2 preouts

rear speakers - leave alone and run off head unit for fill, trust me this sounds great and the components really fill the cab

sony 10" xplod sub in SCrew box from www.subbox.net

click on the link in my signature to see pictures of the setup, it sounds great!

regards,
Wes

 

my system cosists of a panasonic dvd/cd monitor up front, 2 sets of focal utopia componet 5 1/4 sets,zapco ag350 on front stage,ag200 on rear,ag750 on subs,2 eclipse 8810 aluminum subs...i wanted something that sounded awsome and i got it. my best friend owns a stereo shop so i buy all of my items at cost. i got about 1700.00 in everything

 

Let me begin by saying thanks to all who offered their input.

Today I purchased my sound system.
Here is what I ended up with.

Head Unit : Alpine CDA 7977

Speakers : 4 Kicker 5x7 2002 hi power K57's

Amplifier: Alpine 5 channel mrvf357 V-12 mounted in driver side rear pannel

Subwoofer: Kicker 8" VR Sub2 dvc in a custom built box under driver side passenger seat

Since I am inept at all this stereo stuff I am having it professionally installed on Monday. I will report back after it is in and will post some pics .

let me know what cha think

thanks

Mike

 

I wish you could hear my system, then you may have all your answers. You should have gone 10" as opposed to the 8, no matter how modest your bass needs may be. Sorry I didn't see this post a little sooner to offer my recommendations.

 

Look at my profile for the Sound System Upgrades I did on my sCrew. The Combination may not win a contest but believe me it is plenty loud and plenty Ballsy.The 8 in RS series Bazooka fits perfect under the seat, You have to unlatch the rear drivers side and allow it to come foreward some, this will raise the bench some allowing the tube to go under the seat. The Bass Duct on top of the tube will have to be at the 10:00 posistion with the port facing the door. Slowly allow the seat to return to the upright locked posistion, the black brace under the seat should rest on top of the tube where the Bass Duct meets the round part of the tube. I spliced into the rear seat power receptacle (Lighter Plug) wire and have not had any problems with power or fuses, even at extended loud levels

 

Sorry MikeBike I guess I posted too late Sounds like You are getting a jamup system!