I have this rattle under my dash board and i cannot figure out where is cming from. i took it to the dealer and they said that it is just the way it is.in other words, live with it. i cannot, it is driving me insane. it sounds like a piece of loose metal right under the driver's side. i thought it was the adjustable pedals loose or something like that, but i checked everything and everything is tight. i am hoping someone had a similar problem and can help me.

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Black 2001 Supercrew Lariat,
4.6
2w.d.
lowered 2" front
4" back
svt rims
265/60/18 avs yokohamas,
2 KC daylighters.
Air Force one.
Ravin Z55

FUTURE MODS: Harley Davidson front bumper assy.

 

I have a similiar noise which turned out to be the tach cable. (At least that is what I think the cable is for.) It is right behind and slightly above the brake pedal. It comes through the firewall. For all the world it sounds like it is in the dash, but if you reach way down there with your foot you should be able to step on it and the noise stops. My reason for the noise was a broken clip on the cable which then allows it to vibrate at idle speed. I know of this happening on at least two others. This may or may not be your noise. Good luck.

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SuperCrew XLT 4x2, Silver Metallic, Dark Graphite, 5.4L, Captain's Chairs, 6-CD, L/S, Tow Package, Gen. III, Lund Bug Deflector

 

I had the same problem,my problem was a loose dash bracket. Dealer tightened it up and the rattle went away. hope this helps.

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2001 Supercrew(1), XLT 4x4,5.4l,tow,3.55ls, captains chairs
Island Blue & Silver Frost.6 disc changer,keyless entry,bug shield,vent visors,expy console,duraliner bed liner,extang tonneau cover, more to come

 

FWIW I don't think we have a tach cable. All of the gauges are elctronic I belive. You can put them in a test mode while you are driving and have them swing from 0 to max then back to normal.

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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.

1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17

My Home Page

 

Northcrew - Good to know what that cable does. I really thought it would not be a tach cable, but I also knew the noise was closly linked to idle engine RPM's. My dealer said the clip that holds the cable could not be fixed, as it is part of the cable itself. Only fix is to remove and replace the entire cable. I should be having that done this week.

 

The cable in question that silverstreaker mentions is the transmission selector cable.
It routes from the steering column down behind the brake pedal out through the bottom of the firewall then onto the transmission.
Mine sounds like a buzz which I hear when at a stop while in gear. If I put it in into park the buzz stops or if I start to move forward it stops. When I brought it in for the new radiator they looked at it and said one of the cable clips was not hooked in and claimed they fixed it. Mine still does it however so I need to take a look at it myself to see what can be done.

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2001 S-Crew XLT Gen II (Ordered 7-26-00) (built on 9-19-00) (delivered 10-09-00) 4x4, 4.6, Lmt. Slip, Tow Pack, Slider, Steps, Pwr Driver Seat, Moonroof, 255 16" A/T Tires with Cast Aluminum Wheels, Oxford White over Graphite
Mods.- A.R.E lid, Ford Duraliner, Husky mats and mud guards
Future - Superchip, Air intake

 

silverstreaker,

Any idea where that cable clamp is located? In the cab I see one plastic clamp that snaps onto the cable and seats into the firewall. The buzz actually is worse with this clamp fastened to the firewall as the sound is amplified through the mass of the firewall.
Underneath the truck, as the cable comes through the firewall and goes onto the transmission I didn't see anything. I guess I need to take a closer look.

 

Northcrew - The one clamp along the firewall is all I know about. I know of others having success with stoping the noise by using a tie-wrap to apply tension to the cable. I am having mine replaced Friday. By Monday I should know if that fix really works. Once I am sure if that worked I will post here.