$1.50 BED EXTENDER LOCK (long)
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by stilmore:
Do you have any pics of this? If so please post them. This sounds like an interresting way of solving the problem... I'd just like to see it.</font>
Do you have any pics of this? If so please post them. This sounds like an interresting way of solving the problem... I'd just like to see it.</font>
Scott, Excellent Idea and very descriptive instructions. Just have to make sure the extender is in the right way, ie. you have to push down to remove, since it can be installed either way.
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01 Kingranch, 4x4, 5.4, Estate Green w/Arizona Beige two tone, Limited slip,Skidplates,Moonroof,Trailer tow, Cargo cage, All the Goodies! Add ons; Bedrug, 9005 Fog lamps
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01 Kingranch, 4x4, 5.4, Estate Green w/Arizona Beige two tone, Limited slip,Skidplates,Moonroof,Trailer tow, Cargo cage, All the Goodies! Add ons; Bedrug, 9005 Fog lamps
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ScrewKing:
Scott, Excellent Idea and very descriptive instructions. Just have to make sure the extender is in the right way, ie. you have to push down to remove, since it can be installed either way.
</font>
Scott, Excellent Idea and very descriptive instructions. Just have to make sure the extender is in the right way, ie. you have to push down to remove, since it can be installed either way.
</font>
Seems like theft of the S-crew bed extenders is a problem. I wasn't crazy about a cable or drilling through the hinge, so I thought about how the extender is removed and this is what I cam up with.
With the extender in closed (in the bed), measure from the bottom of the lowest rail to the truck bed. Then remove the bed extentender and mark which side is down when the extender is in the bed. Remove the extender. Then remove the locking pins and the end caps from the extender. Measure back about 21/2" inches on the centerline of the rail that is on the bottom when the extender is in the bed. Drill a 3/8" hole on that centerline through the bottom side of the rail. The only material required are two 5/16"x 3" carriage bolts, two washers, two 5/6" nuts, and two 5/16" nylon lock nuts. Thread the std nut and washer onto the bolt about halfway, then insert the threaded end into the hole just drilled. Hold the locknut inside the rail and attatch to the bolt. Then tighten the locknut down until you have the right length so that the rounded end of the carriage bolt just clears the bed . Then tighten the std nut to lock it in place. Replace the end caps and lock pins. Do the other side and your done. Mine took me about 20 miutes start to finish.
The reason this works is that with the tailgate up and locked, the only way to remove the extender is to hold in the retaining clips and push the extender down. Now, as long as the tailgate is locked, the extender cannot be pushed down. This does not effect the operation of the extender at all. Flips over fine. Also, very hard to see that anything has been done to the truck. Just be sure the bolts don't rub the bed once tightend and the extender is in the closed position.
Hoppe this helps.
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2001 S-CREW 5.4L 3.55LS
With the extender in closed (in the bed), measure from the bottom of the lowest rail to the truck bed. Then remove the bed extentender and mark which side is down when the extender is in the bed. Remove the extender. Then remove the locking pins and the end caps from the extender. Measure back about 21/2" inches on the centerline of the rail that is on the bottom when the extender is in the bed. Drill a 3/8" hole on that centerline through the bottom side of the rail. The only material required are two 5/16"x 3" carriage bolts, two washers, two 5/6" nuts, and two 5/16" nylon lock nuts. Thread the std nut and washer onto the bolt about halfway, then insert the threaded end into the hole just drilled. Hold the locknut inside the rail and attatch to the bolt. Then tighten the locknut down until you have the right length so that the rounded end of the carriage bolt just clears the bed . Then tighten the std nut to lock it in place. Replace the end caps and lock pins. Do the other side and your done. Mine took me about 20 miutes start to finish.
The reason this works is that with the tailgate up and locked, the only way to remove the extender is to hold in the retaining clips and push the extender down. Now, as long as the tailgate is locked, the extender cannot be pushed down. This does not effect the operation of the extender at all. Flips over fine. Also, very hard to see that anything has been done to the truck. Just be sure the bolts don't rub the bed once tightend and the extender is in the closed position.
Hoppe this helps.
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2001 S-CREW 5.4L 3.55LS
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Femseadoo:
Could someone with a wrench still get to the bolts and uncrew them?
A lot a thieves, like the ones that stole my license plate and holder, carry a few tools with them. </font>
Could someone with a wrench still get to the bolts and uncrew them?
A lot a thieves, like the ones that stole my license plate and holder, carry a few tools with them. </font>
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Well here is yet another way to secure the bed extender. I have combined all of the different ideas and came up with my own:
Bed extender out
Bed extender in
You will need 2 stainless steel
4" X 3/8" carriage bolts, 14, 3/8" stainless steel nuts and 2, 2 1/4" pieces of rubber hose that fits over the nuts.
Drill a 3/8" hole through both sides of the bed extender. Put 5 of the nuts onto the carriage bolt and slide the rubber hose over the nuts on the carriage bolt. Put carriage bolt through the bed extender and secure with 2 nuts. You could use one 3/8" nylon lock nut instead of the 2 nuts ( I didn't have any ). Make sure you drill the holes in the bed extender on the correct side of the extender. The holes should be drilled on the bottom side of the extender when the tailgate is closed and you have to push down on the extender to remove it. The bed extender can't be removed when the tailgate is locked even if someone would remove the 2 nuts. The 5 other nuts are for spacers and added thickness to cut through. The rubber hose gives it a finished look and also to help protect anything that I accidentally hit with the bolts sticking out. Cut the rubber hose a little longer than the length of the 5 nuts so after you tighten it down on the extender the hose will fit tight against the extender. This should be done on both sides of the extender. This only protects the bed extender with the tailgate locked. I have also posted this on my web sight.
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<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/skyjet1/SuperCrew.html" TARGET=_blank>
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/skyjet1/SuperCrew.html</A>" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/skyjet1/SuperCrew.html[/URL]</A>
First Edition 2001 F-150 Lariat SuperCrew, Bright Red / Silver Frost, Medium Graphite Leather, 2X4, 5.4, Moonroof, Premium AM/FM single CD player with 6 CD Changer, 3.55 Limited Slip, Tow package, Bright Red Lund Nose Shield, Line-X bedliner, Bed Extender, Daytime Running Lights, Magellen M330 GPS.
[This message has been edited by skyjet (edited 05-11-2001).]
Bed extender out
Bed extender in
You will need 2 stainless steel
4" X 3/8" carriage bolts, 14, 3/8" stainless steel nuts and 2, 2 1/4" pieces of rubber hose that fits over the nuts.
Drill a 3/8" hole through both sides of the bed extender. Put 5 of the nuts onto the carriage bolt and slide the rubber hose over the nuts on the carriage bolt. Put carriage bolt through the bed extender and secure with 2 nuts. You could use one 3/8" nylon lock nut instead of the 2 nuts ( I didn't have any ). Make sure you drill the holes in the bed extender on the correct side of the extender. The holes should be drilled on the bottom side of the extender when the tailgate is closed and you have to push down on the extender to remove it. The bed extender can't be removed when the tailgate is locked even if someone would remove the 2 nuts. The 5 other nuts are for spacers and added thickness to cut through. The rubber hose gives it a finished look and also to help protect anything that I accidentally hit with the bolts sticking out. Cut the rubber hose a little longer than the length of the 5 nuts so after you tighten it down on the extender the hose will fit tight against the extender. This should be done on both sides of the extender. This only protects the bed extender with the tailgate locked. I have also posted this on my web sight.
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<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/skyjet1/SuperCrew.html" TARGET=_blank>
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/skyjet1/SuperCrew.html</A>" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/skyjet1/SuperCrew.html[/URL]</A>
First Edition 2001 F-150 Lariat SuperCrew, Bright Red / Silver Frost, Medium Graphite Leather, 2X4, 5.4, Moonroof, Premium AM/FM single CD player with 6 CD Changer, 3.55 Limited Slip, Tow package, Bright Red Lund Nose Shield, Line-X bedliner, Bed Extender, Daytime Running Lights, Magellen M330 GPS.
[This message has been edited by skyjet (edited 05-11-2001).]


