I installed 4 new door speakers last night in my Supercrew. I posted a pretty thorough explanation (although rambling at times) in the speaker forum under another post re: rear door speakers needing a spacer. The door panels were incredibly easy to remove. The wiring for the rear door speakers is different than the wire colors for a supercab. I don't have the colors with me now, but I'll be posting a follow up in the speaker forum when I go home to get my notes. I installed the Polk dx7 3 ways and they were a perfect fit - no modification needed and they definitely sound better. I have the stock radio/cassette and 6 disc changer. If anyone has questions about removing the door panels, feel free to e-mail me at jrt@hhw.com and I'll answer them - it was super easy and in my opinion a waste of $80 to pay a car stereo shop to do it. Total install time was about an hour. Only tools you'll need are a socket set (three sizes of hex head screws) and a phillips screw driver (i used a a cordless drill and it reached all of them fine). Hope this helps!

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2001 Supercrew 4x4 Lariat, Wedgewood Blue with Harvest Gold Two-tone, Amp-Research (Steelhorse) bed extender, Herculiner, Moonroof, Tan Leather, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Boat Cleat Bed Tie Downs (a must), Factory CD changer.

 

jtray;
Nice write up in the speakers forum...thanks for all the detail. Are you considering a subwoofer to compliment? If so, which one and where ? Again, Thanks for the detail on the door panel removal. I'm off to get a component system today and install tonight.

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2001 F-150 Super Crew Lariat 4x4. 5.4 engine. Chestnut w/ gold trim. Ford/ Duraliner bed insert. Six disc cd changer. Moon roof. 98/99 Expy center console. Bed extender.

 

Hi Fed Ex Pilot! No, I'm not going to get a sub for this truck. I had a single 10" sub in my 98 F250 LD Super Cab - it had the split fold-down rear seats and I just folded down the smaller seat behind the driver and put the subwoofer box there. I ran the sub with a Rockford Fosgate 600a5 amp (and also ran all 4 door speakers with this amp). Because the supercrew has a power driver seat, I don't think there is room to mount the amp underneath the driver's seat, but I haven't checked to be honest. Plus, my wife and I are going to start having kids soon and my wife thinks a sub is a bad idea for the little tykes. If I were to put in a sub, I'd take a serious look at the clarion "center console" subwoofer. It sits on the hump inbetween the driver and passenger seat and I think it even has cupholders in the top. I can't remember where I saw the information for it, but it was somewhere on this message board. It's about $325 if I remember right and I think it has it's own power and would hook up to the factory deck o.k. I'd like to replace my head-unit, but I understand that the aftermarket Clarion in-dash cd players are not compatible with the supercrew 6 disc changer even though both are Clarion. I think the stock deck actually sounds pretty good, especially with the speaker upgrade. I wouldn't want to add an amp unless I replaced the head unit - RCA imputs are so much cleaner than the high level speaker inputs that you would have to do if you kept the stock head-unit. Good luck with the component install - feel free to email me at home if you have any questions - it's killertraylor@aol.com. I'm sure you'll find it as simple as I did. I'll do my best to get the speaker wire colors posted this afternoon so you'll know which wires go where on your speakers.

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2001 Supercrew 4x4 Lariat, Wedgewood Blue with Harvest Gold Two-tone, Amp-Research (Steelhorse) bed extender, Herculiner, Moonroof, Tan Leather, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Boat Cleat Bed Tie Downs (a must), Factory CD changer.

 

JL Audio makes a subwoofer that is an exact replacement for the center console. simply remove the console, separate the exterior from the guts underneath, place the exterior over the JL sub, re install. the JL sub contains a 10" sub that can take 350 watts.

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2001 SUPER CREW LARIAT
BRIGHT RED/SILVER 2 TONE
5.4 AUTO 4x4
LUVERNE STAINLESS SIDE STEPS
PENDALINER BED LINER
DOWNEY TONEAU COVER
DEFLECTA SHIELD BUG SHIELD
TRENZ FRT GRILLE
LIGHTED VANITY MIRRORS
CLEAR SIDE MARKER LIGHTS

NEXT TO ADD
-----------
K&N FIPK
CAT BACK EXHAUST
SUPERCHIP
LIGHTNING FRT BUMPER
EDELBROCK SHOCKS
HELLWIG SWAY BARS
650 WATT SOUND SYSTEM

 

jray,
What is the best way to remove the door panels. I looked and could not tell if there are hiddens screws that needed to be removed before I tried to take it off.

 

ssg57 - go up to the speaker forum and read my reply to JerryH under the post titled "SuperCrew rear door speakers mY need 1/8 spacer" I described in detail how to take the door panels off. On the front doors, there are two phillips screws on the bottom of the door panel that you can see simply by opening the door and crouching down and looking - you don't have to take anything off to see them. There is another phillips head screw behind the plastic trim piece that goes around the door latch handle (what you pull on to open the door). Finally, there is a 7mm hex head screw behind the plastic panel that holds the power window and door lock buttons - just pull up on this panel and unplug the wires from the buttons - you'll see a hex head screw that goes into a white plastic fitting - once it is out, just grab the door handle, lift up, and the door panel will come off. Don't forget to remove the bulb from the courtesy light. On the rear doors, there are the two phillips head screws in the bottom of the door, just like the front door. You also need to remove the trim piece that runs vertically along the back side of the window and there is another phillips head screw under there. The final phillips head screw is in the same place as on the front doors - behind the plastic trim piece for the door latch handle and the 7mm hex head screw is in the same place as on the front doors - behind the plastic piece that holds the door lock and automatic window controls. Good Luck!

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2001 Supercrew 4x4 Lariat, Wedgewood Blue with Harvest Gold Two-tone, Amp-Research (Steelhorse) bed extender, Herculiner, Moonroof, Tan Leather, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Boat Cleat Bed Tie Downs (a must), Factory CD changer.

 

jtray and OKCrew did a terrific job of documenting interior door trim removal. Here are some pictures to complement their write ups.


Ford Super Crew interior door

Removing Door Handle Trim


Removing phillips head screw from door handle area

Remove electric window/ door lock control panel


Remove 7mm hex nut

Remove two phillips head screws from bottom of door


Lift out interior door panel


Super Crew door with interior panel removed and OEM premium speakers displayed


Removing oem 5x7 speaker


Super Crew with component speaker tweeter forward of door handle


Hope this helps ... obviously I have too much time on my hands ...

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2001 F-150 Super Crew Lariat 4x4. 5.4 engine. Chestnut w/ gold trim. Ford/ Duraliner bed insert. Six disc cd changer. Moon roof. 98/99 Expy center console. Bed extender.


[This message has been edited by FedExPilot (edited 08-24-2000).]

[This message has been edited by FedExPilot (edited 08-24-2000).]

[This message has been edited by FedExPilot (edited 08-25-2000).]

 

Excellent Photographs Fed-ex Pilot! I fianally broke down and bought a digital camera yesterday and was going to do the same thing, but I'm glad you beat me to it - besides, I'm not sure how to post digital pictures yet - but I'm sure I'll figure it out soon. Also - I posted the wiring diagram for all 4 door speakers above in the Speaker forum after my detailed post. Component tweeters look great and I'm sure they sound a lot better too. What brand of component did you go with and did you have to make any mods to put the midrange speaker in the factory spot?

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2001 Supercrew 4x4 Lariat, Wedgewood Blue with Harvest Gold Two-tone, Amp-Research (Steelhorse) bed extender, Herculiner, Moonroof, Tan Leather, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Boat Cleat Bed Tie Downs (a must), Factory CD changer.

 

jtray;
Thanks for the wiring codes -- great job.
I installed Rockford Fosgate FNP 1614's components in the front. I wanted the bass of a 6 1/2, hoping to delay/ preclude (the inevitable ?) installation of a subwoofer. The mid-range would not fit into the existing hole - - it will hold a 5 1/4. It looked as though the speakers depth (2 1/2 inch) might also conflict (or be pretty close) with window operation. I used the fosgate speaker grill mounting ring as a spacer (since I was installing in the oem location and didn't need the grill). I've seen similar spacers at stereo shops. With the spacer, there was no interference between the speaker frame and the door access hole. There is plenty of room between the door frame/ speaker and the OEM door speaker grill. Of course I could not use the existing attachment holes - - had to drill new holes and also mount the cross-over (adjacent to the mid range).
System sounds much better than oem (as you know). Especially noticable on a good CD - - the highs are clear and the lows clean. The OEM head unit has enough power to drive the components, but I suspect I would get better results with an amp.
Wanted to install the tweeters higher in the door, in what I believe is called the "sail" panel. But, the surface isn't flat (fixable) and there is a structural, support ridge on the backside (tougher problem - - didn't want to chance losing necessary ridgidity).
I used a hole saw from the backside of the panel, being VERY careful as the teeth started to penetrate the last layer of vinyl trim. No problems as long as you're careful.
All in all I'm happy. But I've got to say; my wife's Infinti I-30 OEM Bose stereo system sounds considerably better. Looks like they really did a good job of locating speakers and using just the right subwoofer - - But it can't tow a boat or haul lumber !!

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2001 F-150 Super Crew Lariat 4x4. 5.4 engine. Chestnut w/ gold trim. Ford/ Duraliner bed insert. Six disc cd changer. Moon roof. 98/99 Expy center console. Bed extender.

 

You're right about those Bose systems - I'm currently trying to sell my friend's 2000 Nissan Maxima SE with the Bose system and it's amazing compared to all other factory installed systems I've heard. I think you were smart to install the tweeter where you did - I've read a lot about component tweeters and most manufacturers say they MUST be mounted within 6 inches of the midrange/midbase speaker for the best sound. I am equally impressed with the Supercrew factory system and cd changer - and I had a very high end aftermarket system in my F250 LD that I traded in on my Supercrew - I miss the base, but the Polk dx7s sound just as good with the Supercrew factory stereo as they did with my Rockford 600a5 driving them at 100W per channel. Your Rockford seperates will handle more power than my Polk dx7's and I'm sure they will sound even better with a good amp powering them. Good Luck with choosing a subwoofer - be sure to let us all know which one you choose and where you put it.

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2001 Supercrew 4x4 Lariat, Wedgewood Blue with Harvest Gold Two-tone, Amp-Research (Steelhorse) bed extender, Herculiner, Moonroof, Tan Leather, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Boat Cleat Bed Tie Downs (a must), Factory CD changer.

 

jtray and FedExPilot,

Awsome write-ups and photos. They should really help those who are a little apprehensive about taking the panels off.

FedExPilot, I almost moved my tweeters from the plates (they have auxilary housings for seperate placement) to a similar location to yours. Yours looks and I'm sure sounds great.

I too think an amp would provide an improvement but I think it would only be incremental and I'm really happy now. The sub does make a huge difference.

Happy listening all...

 

Hey FedExPilot:

Great pics. Do you have any pics of your component installation? I installed the Polk DX7's in the front a few months ago. They sound pretty good, but a little disappointed. Thinking about moving the Polks to the back and putting in some components. Still using the "premium HU". Do you feel that an amp will be needed to power the components? Anyway, would love to see some component install pics!

2001 F-150SuperCrew Oxford white
5.4L EFI V8

 

Kfarquhar:
Sorry, no pics of the install of the components. My earlier post on this thread is fairly descriptive. I am not an audiophile, so the following is info I've picked up from this board and audio electronics sites.
The component speaker "efficiency" is the major issue in whether an amp is REQUIRED.. Go to Crutchfields site @
http://sony.crutchfield.com/S-JHO63T79BTE/shopindx.html

You'll see min-max RMS power ranges for speakers, e.g. 2-50 watts or 20-150 watts. The premium Ford stereo puts out approx 20 watts per channel while the standard unit has approx 6 watts per channel. The 20-150 watt speaker in the example above is relatively INefficient - - it takes 20 watts to get it moving, while the other speaker only takes 2 watts - - it's more efficient (takes less power to produce sound). In general, the better, more expensive speakers are inefficient and require an amp to operate at their peak. I installed the Fosgate FNP-1614F, 6 1/2 in component system. It's RMS power range is 8-50 watts. The premium oem Ford stereo provides enough power (20watts rms) to power the speakers. If I had installed a set with min power reqm't of 20 watts, I wouldn't have enough power. With that said, I have lot's of unused "potential" in my new speakers.

I'm certain I have crudely over-simplified the issue. There's lots of expertise and info available in the speakers/ amps/ subwoofers boards.
BTW, The Polk EX2560 component system appears to be very efficient, 2-50 watts rms. They were my first choice. They run approx $200 at Circuit City/ Crutchfields. Hope this helps.....


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2001 F-150 Super Crew Lariat 4x4

• 5.4 engine
• Chestnut w/ gold trim
• Captain's Chairs
• Ford/ Duraliner bed insert
• Six disc cd changer (in center console)
• Fosgate FNP1614 component speakers (front)
• Pioneer TS-A6855 speakers (rear)
• Moon roof
• 98/99 Expedition center console
• Bed extender
• Class 3 trailer hitch

[This message has been edited by FedExPilot (edited 09-03-2000).]

[This message has been edited by FedExPilot (edited 09-03-2000).]

 

Man, I wish I had seen these pictures when I was swapping out my speakers. I sweated thinking I was going to break something. I wanted to get a good improvement in the sound without spending too much money. I ended up switching only the front door speakers to infinity 610CS components and put the tweeters up near the door mirrors for imaging.(the woofer magnets cleared the windows fine) I wanted a bit more power to run them so swapped the factory indash CD to a Pioneer deh2100 (45 watts max.) I ran the pre out back to a Jensen 2100 (150 watt bridged). I'm sure it's pretty lousy quality as far as amps go but it had a variable crossover and I only needed it to power an 8" Rockford Punch subwoofer. The amp went in the compartment behind the 60% fold down, and the sub went under the 60% seat. I had to build a custom sealed box cause I wanted it to fit and also angle the woofer down and forward. The rear door speakers stayed in.
Sound quality is excellent, nice tight bass from the sub and clean clear mids/highs from the components. The infinity's are a bit too bright for my taste, I have the treble turned down a couple of clicks. The sub is small so don't expect to rattle the neighbor's windows, but it's enough to fill the crew even with the roof open on the freeway.

My local Best Buy provided the Pioneer for $149, Jensen Amp for $113, wiring harness and dash kit to fill the big hole for $35. The Infinity's cost $150 at a car stereo shop, and the 8" sub was a hand me down from a friend. Total was under $500 for the whole package, probably would have been just over if I would have paid for a sub speaker.

Changes I'd make: -Buy a subwoofer with more power handling : the old 8" RFpunch tops out at 100 watts, so the amp can make it slap at higher volume
-audition other components speakers to find something smoother than the infinity's, although magnet size may be an issue

 

Inavarro,
Do you have pictures of you install? How did you attach the amp to the back wall.

Did you use a sealed or ported enclosure for your woofer?