Anybody have any ideas as to why the engine is trying to come out of the truck from 40-60 MPH? Feels like it is shifting gears like 5-6 times in that range, when you get on it and let off and then roll back into her slowly its wicked jerky seems to clear up above and below this range. No check engine lights have ever come on. Help!!!!

 

I had a similar problem on my 01, and it turned out to be a bad COP. Try a search, and there have been a lot of people with the same problem, and after replacing the coils, it goes away. My truck would hesitate going about 45-55 with slight pressure on the accelator. I bought all 8 COPs new off ebay for under $150. Hope this helps.

 

how long has you fuel filter been on there mine was the fuel filter but before i fix it i gust turned the overdrive off till i was on the freeway

 

I had the same issue, thought it was the COP, BUT it was only the plugs. I was scared because I had just bought it. Try the plugs first. and NO there was no misfire code kicked. I hope this helps

 

It's plugs doing that.
Be awhere there is a possibility that new OEM plugs may be a different superseded spec now by Ford and may act the same way in a short time.
I have been through this already on the third set of different plugs and concluding a test to prove what the cause is.
If I am right, the new FORD designation is not good and you may need to select a plug for lower center resistance because the original OEM plugs are no longer available unless a dealer has some left on the shelf.
The cause of the missing is attributed to "lean miss" and is so random that no codes are set.
The miss rolling on and off the throttle is exactly what was happening for me.
One thing that happens during this action is the EGR operation is called and leans the fuel and advances the ignition timing. The plugs have a hard time trying to fire a lean mixture if they are erroded, gaps have widened, center resistance is to high etc.
This could cause all kinds of PCM reaction and results that you feel.
Let us know because it is a major item I am working on to prove it and present detailed info so the mistery can be solved and correct some previous misconceptions on what are good and bad plugs makes that now prevails and to show how to handle this problem of getting back to long plug life..

 

YOu described exactly what was happening to mine. I just bought it, and the dealer fixed it with NEW plugs... So should I assume that this fix is NOT going to last? What plugs to I install. He installed Autolites/Champion I have been told they have the same producers. Thanks

 

It will be interesting to see how long your new plugs will go before the same condition returns.
This all seems to hinge on the center electrode resistance of the plugs.
Since we don't know what the resistance is on your old and new plugs it remains to be seen what happens. You may be lucky and get 40 k or more.
I went to my local parts store and had them bring out a list of plugs for this motor, I wanted to measure and record there resistances.
The BOSCH and the IRIDUMS showed the lower resistances so I selected the Bosch for the tests based on being $2.48 ea instead of the higher cost.
I have already been thru 2 sets of Motorcrafts at nearly $70 and discovered they measure higher than the originals I took out by as much as 100% and with the originals no longer available except found some at a dealer about 80 miles away. I may call and have them shipped if I see the problem again.
It looks like the Bosch plugs are getting a bad rap as being NG when the reasons for their failures are the possible use of the wrong designation,applications and center resistance. This should not render them N.G. or junk becasue in the sense of the word they were used in the wrong application.
I have them in now for test to see how long they go.
They are standard plats with single ground. #6241 gapped at .051.
Any one else try them, give us a report.

 

Be prepared, if you take on changing plugs yourself on this vehicle, you best have everything you can to make the job even possible. You will need short and long extensions, swivel, magnetic spark plug socket of the correct size, full set of 1/4 drive sockets with swivel etc. and if I remember it was 7 or 8mm for one of the screws involved. I used a small amount of antiseize on each plug and just snugged it up because I heard so much about stripping out the threads etc. At one point I lost a couple of o-rings off of the injectors which I accidentally partially pulled out as a unit struggling to work around it. I had to go to great leanths to retrieve those o-rings with a length of bailing wire hooked at the end. Looking back I think changing plugs on this vehicle was one of the most miserable maintenance jobs Ive ever done and I would go so far as to say I would buy a Nissan next as a result. If you are scepticle, take a look inside the engine bay on the big v-8 nissan. The plugs are right there staring at you without anything in the way. Not the fuel rail, not the plug condensers ( or whatever you call those evil things setting on top of each plug ). On second thought, if you want to remain a loyal Ford owner DO NOT LOOK INSIDE THE ENGINE BAY ON THE NISSAN! By the way my 2001 5.4L screw is dead in the water as we read. I beleive the fuel pump is gone. Now I have to crawl under there, pull the tank etc. AGHHHHH! My keyboard just came up and hit me in the face.
-M.C.