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need help with part name...

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Old 09-07-2004, 01:09 PM
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need help with part name...

Ok... so my cruise control went out on my truck. I have read lots of things and have come to the conclusion that my problem is with the item that on the master cylinder. I have heard it called a "brake disconnect unit" and "cruide brake disengauge"; however, when I go to Advance Auto to get the part they look at me like a deer about to become road waste. I need to know what the official name of that part is or where I can purchase it. Thank you very much.
 
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Old 09-07-2004, 10:32 PM
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I think I found the name of the part... someone correct me if I am wrong. I believe it is called the "Brake Pressure Switch". Anyone know if this is a part you can go to napa or something to get? Or do I have to sell my soul to Ford to get a new one? Thanks.
 
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Old 09-07-2004, 11:10 PM
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Are you referring to the electrical component that mounts vertically right next to the brake fluid reservoir on the master cylinder? If so, it is called a "Brake Pressure Switch". I would guess you might be able to pick this up at an auto parts but it shouldn't be too expensive even if you get it from the dealer. Torque it down to 12-14 lbs/ft when you replace it. It may also be refered to as a "Speed Control Deactivator Switch".

Tony
 
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Old 09-08-2004, 12:53 PM
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Thanks Tony. You were right on the money. I called Ford and asked for a "Brake Pressure Switch" and he knew what I was talking about. He refered to it as the "Speed Control Deactivator Switch" as well. I have one more question... is it imperitive that it be 12 - 14 lbs/ft? I don't think I have a tool that will tell me that.

Also, if any one wants to know. It is part number F3TZ-9F924-BB. Cost me $28. Thanks.
 

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Old 09-08-2004, 01:43 PM
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Originally posted by tsmith81
I have one more question... is it imperitive that it be 12 - 14 lbs/ft? I don't think I have a tool that will tell me that.
Just telling you what the service manual calls for. Obviously you want it tight enough to not leak brake fluid out or get air sucked in, and at the same point, you don't want to strip the threads being a gorrilla. I just figured I'd tell you what the manual said so you can gauge how tight it has to be. This will most probbaly be one of those "tighten by hand" jobs. Alternatively, you can look at getting a set of "crow's feet" open box wrenches that let you put a socket driver on it (use a torque wrench).

May also be worth finding out if you have to bleed the brake system after the job to eliminate any air in the lines.

Glad I could help,

Tony
 



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