Best Wax
Bunker in boys... this one might be a rough thread...
I encourage you to check the GENERAL CARE forum for an answer to this question.
There are numerous products out there that numerous people are using.
You're going to hear everything from UPP to Zaino to Meguiars to Turtle to Zymol to Mothers to WaxAsYouDry etc...etc...etc...
Everyone has their own opinion. You need to find a product that works best for you from a time perspective and brings the deepest shine along with best protection to your particular vehicle.
This item has been beat into the ground in the GENERAL CARE forum and I know you'll have multiple answers to this tried and true, age-old question.
However, with that being said, you did ask for an opinion. I'll give you that and not hesitate as I'm very avid about the products that I use.
Personally, I use Meguiars Professional Line products (Mirror Glaze is the line name) exclusively on my vehicle.
You mentioned that you didn't want to spend 'all day' waxxing your truck and, I can't agree with you more. However; if you'll spend one good half day on your vehicle the first time, the next several waxxings will be CONSIDERABLY easier. Surface preparation is THE KEY to making sure your vehicle looks at it's best for several months to come.
Here's the process I would recommend. I'll add (optional) comments next to a few of the steps as they may or may not be necessary on your particular vehicle. I'll explain those as I go.
1. Wash. Very simple. Use a respected name car wash that won't strip wax. Dishwashing soap is NOT acceptable under any circumstances unless you are trying to strip all the wax off of your vehicle. Personally, I either use Meguiars 00 HI-TECH wash (available on line at www.meguiars.com ) or Gold Class car wash (available at your local Wally-Hell store).
2. Clay bar. (optional) - This is a step that many people leave out and, in my opinion, their finish shows. Go out after you've washed and dried your vehicle. Run your hand across the hood or roof. Is it rough to the touch? Can you feel little spots or 'globs' of stuck on stuff that didn't wash off? If so, clay is probably the item for you. Clay is a simple yet very effect way to remove such oxidation. You simply use a lubricant such as car wash solution to rub this 'clay bar' across the surface of your vehicle. The clay will snag and remove the vast majority of the 'bumps' that you felt on your paint. Ideally, the paint should feel like glass. No rough texture what so ever.
3. Wash and dry again if you clayed.
4. Polish. (optional in my opinion). If you see tiny swirl marks or some spider web scratching, polishing might be the next step for you. I use a product from Meguiars Mirror Glaze Line called Swirl Remover 2.0 (also known as Meguiars #9). This product is VERY widely used to polish out those pesky spider marks and swirls. It's EXCELLENT. Follow the directions exactly and you'll be amazed at what you'll accomplish.
5. Wax. Of course, this is where the protection for all of the work that you've done comes into play. There are NUMEROUS products out there that I find worthy to go on my truck but, the two that I use most often are Meguiars Premium Paint Protection (PPP) or Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow Carnauba Wax (also known as Meguiars #26). Both are available online at the website however; most of the AutoZones carry the #26 on the shelf. It goes on SUPER easy and comes off JUST AS EASY. Be sure to apply thin coats as this will make your day go by considerably easier and also conserve the product in the bottle rather than wasting. I'd recommend putting a couple of coats of this on in one day.
This isn't meant to be all inclusive however; I think you'll find that if you follow a procedure, make sure that the surface is prepped, and take your time with any quality product, you'll have results that you'll be amazed with... your next door neighbor will be asking if you got a new vehicle.
Feel free to email me with questions or comments. Like I said, I know this isn't every last step and different situations call for different products (maybe something more agressive if the clay doesn't remove the stuck on contamination or maybe something with more abrasion if the #9 doesn't remove the swirl marks/slight oxidation) but, just remember SURFACE PREP is the key. (again, thanks to Intel for stressing that to me... it's vital).
rockpick@insightbb.com or kingranch@hotmail.com



---RockPick---
I encourage you to check the GENERAL CARE forum for an answer to this question.
There are numerous products out there that numerous people are using.
You're going to hear everything from UPP to Zaino to Meguiars to Turtle to Zymol to Mothers to WaxAsYouDry etc...etc...etc...
Everyone has their own opinion. You need to find a product that works best for you from a time perspective and brings the deepest shine along with best protection to your particular vehicle.
This item has been beat into the ground in the GENERAL CARE forum and I know you'll have multiple answers to this tried and true, age-old question.
However, with that being said, you did ask for an opinion. I'll give you that and not hesitate as I'm very avid about the products that I use.
Personally, I use Meguiars Professional Line products (Mirror Glaze is the line name) exclusively on my vehicle.
You mentioned that you didn't want to spend 'all day' waxxing your truck and, I can't agree with you more. However; if you'll spend one good half day on your vehicle the first time, the next several waxxings will be CONSIDERABLY easier. Surface preparation is THE KEY to making sure your vehicle looks at it's best for several months to come.
Here's the process I would recommend. I'll add (optional) comments next to a few of the steps as they may or may not be necessary on your particular vehicle. I'll explain those as I go.
1. Wash. Very simple. Use a respected name car wash that won't strip wax. Dishwashing soap is NOT acceptable under any circumstances unless you are trying to strip all the wax off of your vehicle. Personally, I either use Meguiars 00 HI-TECH wash (available on line at www.meguiars.com ) or Gold Class car wash (available at your local Wally-Hell store).
2. Clay bar. (optional) - This is a step that many people leave out and, in my opinion, their finish shows. Go out after you've washed and dried your vehicle. Run your hand across the hood or roof. Is it rough to the touch? Can you feel little spots or 'globs' of stuck on stuff that didn't wash off? If so, clay is probably the item for you. Clay is a simple yet very effect way to remove such oxidation. You simply use a lubricant such as car wash solution to rub this 'clay bar' across the surface of your vehicle. The clay will snag and remove the vast majority of the 'bumps' that you felt on your paint. Ideally, the paint should feel like glass. No rough texture what so ever.
3. Wash and dry again if you clayed.
4. Polish. (optional in my opinion). If you see tiny swirl marks or some spider web scratching, polishing might be the next step for you. I use a product from Meguiars Mirror Glaze Line called Swirl Remover 2.0 (also known as Meguiars #9). This product is VERY widely used to polish out those pesky spider marks and swirls. It's EXCELLENT. Follow the directions exactly and you'll be amazed at what you'll accomplish.
5. Wax. Of course, this is where the protection for all of the work that you've done comes into play. There are NUMEROUS products out there that I find worthy to go on my truck but, the two that I use most often are Meguiars Premium Paint Protection (PPP) or Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow Carnauba Wax (also known as Meguiars #26). Both are available online at the website however; most of the AutoZones carry the #26 on the shelf. It goes on SUPER easy and comes off JUST AS EASY. Be sure to apply thin coats as this will make your day go by considerably easier and also conserve the product in the bottle rather than wasting. I'd recommend putting a couple of coats of this on in one day.
This isn't meant to be all inclusive however; I think you'll find that if you follow a procedure, make sure that the surface is prepped, and take your time with any quality product, you'll have results that you'll be amazed with... your next door neighbor will be asking if you got a new vehicle.
Feel free to email me with questions or comments. Like I said, I know this isn't every last step and different situations call for different products (maybe something more agressive if the clay doesn't remove the stuck on contamination or maybe something with more abrasion if the #9 doesn't remove the swirl marks/slight oxidation) but, just remember SURFACE PREP is the key. (again, thanks to Intel for stressing that to me... it's vital).
rockpick@insightbb.com or kingranch@hotmail.com



---RockPick---
Wax Off
Here is a comparison done by NSeXcitement Online Magazine (http://www.nsxsc.com/nsexcitement/waxtest.html) which is a meeting place for Acura NSX owners. The Zymol product is sold at Acura delaers I beleive.
FINAL RESULTS
1 - Zaino Z-2 Show Car Polish
2 - Zymol Natural Liquid Auto Polish (maybe made by Turtle wax)
3 - Zymol NSX Glaze
4 - Meguiar's Gold Class, Liquid Clear Coat Car Wax
I'm using Meguiar's Gold Class and I'm not very happy with the gloss on my white truck. I think I may go for the Zaino and give it a shot!
FINAL RESULTS
1 - Zaino Z-2 Show Car Polish
2 - Zymol Natural Liquid Auto Polish (maybe made by Turtle wax)
3 - Zymol NSX Glaze
4 - Meguiar's Gold Class, Liquid Clear Coat Car Wax
I'm using Meguiar's Gold Class and I'm not very happy with the gloss on my white truck. I think I may go for the Zaino and give it a shot!
Trending Topics
Try the professional line danthi. Meguiars Gold Class is lack luster in my opinion too. Decent wax but, just not the same quality as the Mirror Glaze line from Meguiars. Oh yeah, and you're welcome for my lengthy step-by-step process description. Take time to thank people when they answer your questions.
serotta - haven't had time to try the Z yet. I promise that I'll give an unbiased, honest answer once I've done it but, at this point, I need to find a full day that I can dedicate to it to make sure I don't screw up the process (since this is apparently where the majority of folks that don't like Z screw up - in the application process/procedure).
RP
serotta - haven't had time to try the Z yet. I promise that I'll give an unbiased, honest answer once I've done it but, at this point, I need to find a full day that I can dedicate to it to make sure I don't screw up the process (since this is apparently where the majority of folks that don't like Z screw up - in the application process/procedure).
RP
Sonax Paintwork Gloss is by far the best product on the market(if you can find it). I have tried every product that has been mentioned on this board and Sonax has been by far the best. I have used it on my Corvettes and my Black SuperCrew and it brings out the best deep wet gloss shine that I have ever seen. It goes on and buffs off easy and lasts up to 4-6 months. Great product if you can find it. I bought 30 cans in Florida 12 years ago, and finally opened up my last can today to polish my 2003 Black SuperCrew. The product is made in Germany and I hope I can find a retailer to purchase more. I guess I will have to search the net for a source.
Here you go softgenious, a link to order Sonax Paintwork Gloss for $12.15.
http://www.carcareonline.com/detail....oduct_id=10903
http://www.carcareonline.com/detail....oduct_id=10903
RP
Damn RockPick I am impressed with your write-up. Well, actually I am not because you seem to be a really pay attention to detail type of person. I love my Zaino for my own reasons but I can not deny that there are other great products out there that some people will find they like better then Zaino.
I think like you stated it is basically a personal choice in what one likes over another. Kind of like tires, some or a lot like the real shinny look and I like the natural clean look, like a satin finish to mine.
Your truck does indeed look awesome RockPick and I will be very interested if you like what you find in Zaino after trying it. You may or you may not.
Danthi:
Here is something to think about. If you’re going to use Zaino you need to insure your paint is in great condition prior to using it. Zaino does not have the products like Meguires does for getting the paint in great condition prior to waxing/polishing. Zaino does have a product Z5 that is “suppose” to be for removing swirl marks etc but forget it, it is a “non-abrasive” polish thus it will NOT remove any swirl marks. However those that have dark colored vehicles will use the Z5 instead of the Z2 because on dark colors the Z5 gives the better shine.
I would also add that after someone gives you such a detailed response as RockPick did it would be considered appropriate for a simple “thanks for your time and effort” a simple “thank you” will do wonders for future responses to post you may make…
I think like you stated it is basically a personal choice in what one likes over another. Kind of like tires, some or a lot like the real shinny look and I like the natural clean look, like a satin finish to mine.
Your truck does indeed look awesome RockPick and I will be very interested if you like what you find in Zaino after trying it. You may or you may not.
Danthi:
Here is something to think about. If you’re going to use Zaino you need to insure your paint is in great condition prior to using it. Zaino does not have the products like Meguires does for getting the paint in great condition prior to waxing/polishing. Zaino does have a product Z5 that is “suppose” to be for removing swirl marks etc but forget it, it is a “non-abrasive” polish thus it will NOT remove any swirl marks. However those that have dark colored vehicles will use the Z5 instead of the Z2 because on dark colors the Z5 gives the better shine.
I would also add that after someone gives you such a detailed response as RockPick did it would be considered appropriate for a simple “thanks for your time and effort” a simple “thank you” will do wonders for future responses to post you may make…





