I want to keep the stock head, and cd player, but I'm looking for better speakers. I have the OEM system, With the Premium CD changer/tuner setup in a 02 Supercrew. The stock head puts out 4x25 right? If I get 220max 50rms, what do I need to get the full 50? Also what would be better,

Rockford 2-way 150max 75rms

Pioneer 3-Way 220max 50rms

Also what does the 5 mean in this: power range 5-70 watts RMS
??


Also is there any brand of speaker that is more durable then other brands?

 

I went with the Pioneers ad I am very happy with them.. They will sound even better when I swap out the HU... I'm basically gonna do the same thing as RockPick... Slap! get back on track!

Anyways, I don't think you could go wrong with any aftermarket speakers when compared to the OEM ones.... For the price and power handling, I went with the Pioneers..

Chris (ReelWork)

 

Can someone post a link the these speakers? That way I can see what size and price I need to look for. Also, is the rear the same size? There are just 4 right?

Thanks,
Justin

 

Goto crutchfield.com and then chose what type of vehicle you have. Then it will only show speakers that will fit your truck.

I have the Pioneer (can't remember model numbers) and with the stock head unit sound 10 times better. I put some bass blocker inline on the front 2 speakers and none on the back, this way I don't hear the bass distortion as much up front (when the volume is loud) but the backs can still put out a bit of bass.

The highs tend to get a bit harsh when the volume it loud, I think the head unit is trying to compensate for the crappy factory speakers. I do have my trebile and bass zeroed.

You can definatly tell that the amp in the stock head unit sucks when you have the volume up more than about a third of the way as music with lots of bass will almost sound as if the music is compressed. It's definalty worth the money, about $180 for 4 speakers from crutchfield with shipping, installed them in about 2 hours (I'm a novice)

I have the Pionner 3 ways in the front and 2 ways in the back.

Luck to you

 

They are all 4 the same size... Take a look at my signature above and you can see the models I got... I think there might even be newer ones out now also. Mine are only 5 months old, got 'em the week I bought my truck.. I listened to the OEM's and said "These gotta go!"

Good Luck and don't get too worried about which ones, like I said before, no matter which ones you get, it will be a very noticeable improvement in clarity, crispness and response.

Later,

Chris (ReelWork)

 

I think the stock speakers are not too bad, but they simply can't handle the full range of frequencys at high volume levels.

With mine, I kept the factory CD changer and head unit, but I added an amplifier and subwoofer (see signature). Now that all the door speakers are no longer are burdened with the bass frequencys, the sound quality is MUCH improved. I will replace the door speakers sometime with 6 or 6 1/2 component speakers, but there's no rush.

2002S-Crew, in your case, I would still recommend component speakers over the 2-way or 3-way speakers. They will be more costly and if you're doing it yourself, you'll need to make custom mounts for them. Or just take it to any reputable car audio place and I'm sure they already have templates for the mounts and can do it much faster than you or I could.

Good luck and happy listening.

 

component speakers over the 2-way or 3-way speakers

Whats the difference between component speakers, and 2 way?

I was just think of sticking some 6x8 2way or 3ways.

But my stock head puts out 4x50. And these are 2-75 rms, so I need an amp to boost up the wattage abit or how would that work? Also where is a good place to put a sub, I still wanna try and keep the storage under my back seat. I seen that 1 guy had them built into the back behind the seat, but thats way to much work for me todo.

damn those component speakers are like $300cdn. Don't see me spending that much per speaker.

 

How would you replace the standard "crap" speakers in the Supercrew. I am afraid that I may break something getting the door panels off. Basically, how do I get at the stock speakers without breaking something. Thanks.

P.S. Every time I put on Springsteen, the bass distortion is terrible...The stock speakers really suck.

 

Actually I haven't found the Premium stock system to be not that bad. Only thing I worry about is blow the stock speakers, and have nothing for when it comes time to trade in but good ones. I can crank up the rob zombie(hockey music) and the only problem I have is the passenger side radles abit. I just want a lil more bass. Maybe I should just opt for a sub. Also they radio sounds like ****, can I do anything to improve that? CD's sound good tho.

 

One thing that I usually look for when using aftermarket speakers with OEM head units is efficiency. A speakers efficiency is rated as XX db SPL (@1Watt @1 Meter). The higher the number, the more efficient the speaker. This also means the less you have to crank up that high distortion OEM reciever.

Most "component speakers" have an SPL of about 88 db. Pioneer produces some very efficient designs, many of them are in the 92-93 db range.

The thing to remember is that the decibel scale is geometric (not linear). In other words, the power required to increase the sound level doubles for every 3 db. So.... If your speakers produce 88db SPL at 1 Watt, they will need 2 Watts of power to produce a 91db level.

Another thing to remember is that 4X50 Watts is peak power. RMS Power (which is the preferred measurement) is probably not more than 12 Watts per channel. If my reciever is only putting out 12 Watts RMS at full volume, I would rather use speakers that are 3db more efficient, and only turn my unit half way up!

 

So short and sweet, I want something with a higher DB, and a higher rms?

And I use a amp to raise the wattage from my head to speakers? Or do I need a new head??

 

These are a piece of cake to take off...

First, pry up on the power window assembly, it's just held in by pressure clips. Unplug and set to the side. Oh yeah, it's best to have the window all the way DOWN before disconnecting..

Second, pull the door handle cup off. Same thing as before, just a pressure clip. There's a bolt behind the plate than needs to come off.

Third, follow the perimeter of the panel along the bottom and you will need to remove the screws - 4 or 5 of them.

After this is done, just pull up on it and it will slide up and off like a champ. You may need to pull the door handle inward to allow the panel to free up but it's pretty straightforward.

As for the rear door, pretty much the same with one addition. Pull the upper trim piece off first. It's also just held in and will pull off pretty easily...

Hope this helps...

Chris (ReelWork)

 

Try these sites for more tech info:

http://www.car-audio-info.com/

http://www.mobileaudio.com/ Go to the FAQ section.

http://www.crutchfield.com/infocente...UCqul82H3/car/

That should make you an expert!

 

If you're going to use an amp, you can (and probably should) use less efficient speakers. The more efficient speakers will be rated at 2-75W (for example), while the less efficient speakers will be rated at 5-90W. The "minimum wattage" is the recommended minimum power to achieve the full "spectrum" of sound. The quality is greatly diminished below the minimum level(either you won't hear it, or there will be an unacceptable level of distortion from "underdriving" the speakers).

 

Ahhh I see, so a 2-75 speaker sounds the best between 2 & 75 watt's. And a 4-50 deck puts out 4-50 watt's? So if my deck pushes 50watt max, then there is no point in getting 75 watt speakers.

Whats the rms on a stock deck?


And how does the DB work now. Say a speaker is 95db, is that the max it will put out or how does that work?