Hey skidmarkracing, have the pic's been posted? Tell us where they are so we can eyeball them

 

Well, im still trying to figure out which wire I need to tap into for the AC clutch so in the mean time I figured I would take some stuff apart and get a better look. Those goofy plastic screws holding the radiator support etc all seemed to be stripped so I couldnt get it off with out wrecking them so decided to ait until I got some more so I could put it back together once I started. Having that project scrapped for the day I figured I would relocate my air temp sensor to the pre-bypass location. Got some wire to extend the harness for the sensor, got some more hose to extend the crankcase breather line, pulled it all apart and started to put it back togerther when I realized one of the elbows was trimmed a couple inches on one end and then there was clearance for the air filter etc under the hood. I will buy a couple more elbows, but until I get em, that project is on hold too. I hate it when you mod plans fall apart

 

ZYG,


I have been gathering parts as well. I am currently waiting on the wiring kit from Summit. I have look in the Haynes manual and it shows the Black/Yellow wire from the A/C clutch diode to the compressor. I am not sure if this is the wire to splice into? Maybe some here can shed a little light on the subject for us. I will have to look and trace the wires back. The diagram is ok but specific as to locations under hood.

 

Zyg,Outdare,
You are correct. The black w/ yellow tracer is the wire to splice into for the a/c clutch, at least that's what it was on my truck. I bought the PPI setup and in the instruction manual it says to tap into the gray wire. I did not see such a color so I called Mike T. He informed me that some vehicles have the gray wire while others use the black w/ the yellow tracer. Just peel back part of the loom going to the compressor and you should be able to identify which you have.

 

My fan pics are in my gallery on the other site.

The wire for the AC turn on can be located in your external fuse box as well as you switch and or constant hot wire.

Pop the fuse box out and flip it over. Remove the plastic cover on the bottom and whamo you have all the wires you need.

The AC is relay 204 - the correct wire is located in the center of the relay. To properly test start the truck and test the wire. Constant state of ground. Turn on the AC and it goes to hot. This will turn on the fans. Again to test this the truck has to be running.

Check your owners manual for the ac relay.

My fans are set a pushers and located in the front of the condenser. The application works incredibly well.

 

Skid, Raycee

Thanks, I am just being lazy. Skid I will test out the fuse relay 204. It should be the same since my is a 99. How do you like the set up. I went ahead and bought the perma-cool. I could not see the extra 30$ per fan for the Denale.

Thanks Again,
Bill

 

I too am running the perma cool setup with the perma cool wiring harness. Mine are set up like pushers in the front. I love this setup. Gives more room to work on the motor and you do not have to modify the tubes for the blower. Watching my temps rise and then the fans kick on. When they do it is like watching a timer, the temps start to fall so fast.

 

Skid,

I was going to wait for the wiring kit to arrive. But it is not due till Thursday. Summit lost my order.. I have already finished the thermostat 170 slant, plugs and shift kit. The only hitch was a seized bolt in tranny pan I had to drill out. With everyones messages put up here I feel like I cheated. I am starting on the ATI install tomorrow. I still might hold off till wiring kits arrives to finish. I being a wuss and don't want to cut my shroud. Rather have the electric fans. I will be going with the same set up.(pushers) I do have a question. Crash stated that you have a Bauman set up at level 4. I don't know the difference in the hole sizes. I.E My 1st is at drilled .93 2nd is at .76 and 3rd is at .93. How does this compare to your kit?


Thanks

Bill

 

Thx for the tips Skid, I was looking through the owners manual this weekend for the AC relay. Any tips on getting the fusbox out so I can flip it over? Additionally, what would be a good location to tap into for the ignition + wire?

 

Zyg, see my post on PICS. Some info and pictures there.

Disco the battery. There are 4 tabs on the corners of the fuse box. Pry them out and pull up on the box. Once the box is out, turn it over. There are 5 more pry tabs (smaller) 1 on each corner, and one in the middle (on the pass. side). Pry off each tab, tricky to get em all out at the same time. Pull off the bottom cover and the wire bundle is exposed. You can match up the wire connections with the fuses/relays on top, the relay connections all show up underneath. You can call me if you want.


chris

 

What's the easiest way to get the fans in against the condensor? I really dont want to pull off the whole grill surround. Also, this is my plans for wiring:
If AC is on, both fans turn on
If temp > 170 Both fans turn on
Manual Switch, both fans turn on.

If the AC is on and the temp is > 170 the fan would see power from two rellays. Is there any concerns about back feeding into a relay? Can you burn a relay out this way?

 

Remove the center latch assembly and there is enough room in front of the grill surround. To get your hand in between the Radiator and Condenser just remove the 2 top retaining bolts / mounts from the radiator. You chould be able to lean the radiator towards the engine enough to get your hand in there w/o taking the hose off. There are some pics in my gallery.

There should be no backfeed problem due to the diode in the fan relay circuit. Unless you do some incorrect wiring on the switch setup. Are you using a fan control system or just individual parts?

 

Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I need an answer on a temp. question. Those of you with a 170 F deg thermostat, what are the temperatures you are using for your fan operation? i.e. turn on / turn off temp.

In other words, now that we are using the 170 F deg. thermostat, is the ideal operating temp. lower/ Say... 185 deg F. ? I saw a post earlier where Skid was using around 200 deg F. as a ideal operating temp and cycling the fans around that.

Right now, I'm still operating one fan always on at ignition.

Thanks!

chris

 

The correct operating temp for our trucks is 200 deg. The purpose for the 170 thermostat is to allow proper cooling for our motors. Due to the high boost the temps will jump quite fast inside the motor.

With the electric fans we can use the 170 to allow for better coolant flow while still maintaining an optimum operating temp.

One fan on with the switch is kinda an overkill. I run my truck with the fans kicking on with the temp sensor. The fans rarley come on. In fact they only come on sitting in traffic. The rest of the time there is enough air flow to keep it cool.

If you put your truck into test mode you can watch the temp in degress C. I have my fans coming on at 100 C and turning off at 94 C.

With the ac on they both come on but at a reduced spin rate.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Skid, now I get it!

How do you get them to come on at a reduced speed?

chris