05 5.4 3v build thread

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  #76  
Old 12-31-2015, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaisdaddy
Painless Controller 30140 bought from summit
Motorcraft Fans AL3Z-8C607-A bought from Tasca Parts
Flex-A-Lite Adapter 32084 bought from Summit
3/8 NPT Drill And Tap bought from Amazon
Why not just screw the temp sensor into the Thermostat housing, instead of adding the adapter?
 
  #77  
Old 12-31-2015, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MeanGene
Why not just screw the temp sensor into the Thermostat housing, instead of adding the adapter?
How would you do that?
Drill and tap the water neck?
 
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Old 01-01-2016, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by MeanGene
Why not just screw the temp sensor into the Thermostat housing, instead of adding the adapter?
I wouldve done that but I already have a temp sensor in there for my water temp gauge
 
  #79  
Old 01-01-2016, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Especial86
How would you do that?
Drill and tap the water neck?
Flex a Lite has a kit for a screw in sensor #32050. They recommend the in hose location, but I have seen it done on the Thermostat housing. (The Drill and Tap are not part of the kit)

 

Last edited by MeanGene; 01-01-2016 at 11:46 PM. Reason: More Info
  #80  
Old 01-02-2016, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by MeanGene
Flex a Lite has a kit for a screw in sensor #32050. They recommend the in hose location, but I have seen it done on the Thermostat housing. (The Drill and Tap are not part of the kit)

Not a bad idea.. I just don't think I'd be able sneak the sensor in there easily with the intake arm in the way.. If I clocked the sensor just right I might be able to squeeze it next to the whipple and intake.
I think I will prob go with the hose coupler.. Just need to figure out which controller I want to run.. I hear DCC is hit or miss, and the owner has got some health issues. So I'm leaning towards painless, or flexalite..
Anybody got any good mounting solutions for the whipple coolant reservoir?
 
  #81  
Old 01-02-2016, 03:01 PM
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Temp Sensor in the t-stat housing is not a good idea. Not much meat to it, to much stuff in the way. You would be lucky to have 2 threads holding.
 
  #82  
Old 01-03-2016, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
Temp Sensor in the t-stat housing is not a good idea. Not much meat to it, to much stuff in the way. You would be lucky to have 2 threads holding.
I have a temp probe in mine and never had a problem going on almost 2 years with it. I drilled and tapped and put a good amount of Teflon tape to help seal. I just don't want another temp probe in there that's why I bought the flex a lite adapter
 
  #83  
Old 01-03-2016, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaisdaddy
I have a temp probe in mine and never had a problem going on almost 2 years with it. I drilled and tapped and put a good amount of Teflon tape to help seal. I just don't want another temp probe in there that's why I bought the flex a lite adapter
Wow. I didn't even want to try it. Had the tap and all ready but after looking it over opted for the Flex-lite part. Nice thing about the Flex-lite part is it is ready to accept two sensors if desired.
 
  #84  
Old 01-03-2016, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaisdaddy
I have a temp probe in mine and never had a problem going on almost 2 years with it. I drilled and tapped and put a good amount of Teflon tape to help seal. I just don't want another temp probe in there that's why I bought the flex a lite adapter
Originally Posted by Especial86
Not a bad idea.. I just don't think I'd be able sneak the sensor in there easily with the intake arm in the way.. If I clocked the sensor just right I might be able to squeeze it next to the whipple and intake.
I think I will prob go with the hose coupler.. Just need to figure out which controller I want to run.. I hear DCC is hit or miss, and the owner has got some health issues. So I'm leaning towards painless, or flexalite..
Anybody got any good mounting solutions for the whipple coolant reservoir?
I was able to mount it with no problem after the e-fan install. Simply secured it to the Motorcraft fan housing. Drilled and tapped. No sweat. Used a piece if alum
1/8"x1" to make a leg that attached to the stud on the timing chain cover up above the belt tensioner and idler pulley. I simply bent it so that the tank could rest on it.

 
  #85  
Old 01-03-2016, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
I was able to mount it with no problem after the e-fan install. Simply secured it to the Motorcraft fan housing. Drilled and tapped. No sweat. Used a piece if alum
1/8"x1" to make a leg that attached to the stud on the timing chain cover up above the belt tensioner and idler pulley. I simply bent it so that the tank could rest on it.

Yea I put it in the water neck because I had the probes that stuck into the radiator on my old efan setup. Eventually I'll probably put the sensor in the flex a lite adapter. The only thing I don't like about putting the temp sensor for my water temp gauge anywhere after the thermostat is I don't get readings until the tstat opens. For mounting IC Resvoir mine may be mounted differently because I bought the Whipple kit new and I don't have the plastic resvoir you guys have/had mines aluminum and setup a little different
 
  #86  
Old 01-03-2016, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaisdaddy
Yea I put it in the water neck because I had the probes that stuck into the radiator on my old efan setup. Eventually I'll probably put the sensor in the flex a lite adapter. The only thing I don't like about putting the temp sensor for my water temp gauge anywhere after the thermostat is I don't get readings until the tstat opens. For mounting IC Resvoir mine may be mounted differently because I bought the Whipple kit new and I don't have the plastic resvoir you guys have/had mines aluminum and setup a little different
Nice they updated the kit. I put that plastic reservoir in the closet. $120 had a custom 5 liter tank made that mounts between the headlight and washer reservoir. Cleaned up things nicely.


 
  #87  
Old 01-03-2016, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
Nice they updated the kit. I put that plastic reservoir in the closet. $120 had a custom 5 liter tank made that mounts between the headlight and washer reservoir. Cleaned up things nicely.


Yeah that's a nice clean engine bay, even the wiring and hoses.. This makes me wish I painted my alternator, water crossover and intake manifold while I had the chance..
So you made a standoff bracket for the front ear on the whipple tank? What did it tie to? The motorcraft fan shroud?

How's that oil cap breather working out?

Also.. What are your engine load readings at idle? How much vac at idle are you seeing, and with the headlights on and heat running what are you getting for numbers?
 
  #88  
Old 01-03-2016, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Especial86
Yeah that's a nice clean engine bay, even the wiring and hoses.. This makes me wish I painted my alternator, water crossover and intake manifold while I had the chance..
So you made a standoff bracket for the front ear on the whipple tank? What did it tie to? The motorcraft fan shroud?

How's that oil cap breather working out?

Also.. What are your engine load readings at idle? How much vac at idle are you seeing, and with the headlights on and heat running what are you getting for numbers?
I'm glad I painted everything last time I had it apart. Will do the valve covers when I swap the GT500 short block.

The alum leg was nothing fancy. Again just 1/8" x 1" alum flat bar. Drilled a hole in it and slid it on the stud coming out of the timing cover. Added a nut to the stud coming out of the timing cover to secure it. It runs up and bends to provide the additional support to the tank.

CFM oil/breather cap working just fine.

As for engine load I'll have to comb my last data log as I can't remember. Vac at idle is 20-21" depending on in gear or park and accessories running. Not bad for 100,400 miles. Never been in the motor and it's been supercharged for 64,405 miles.
 

Last edited by twinskrewd; 01-03-2016 at 07:47 PM.
  #89  
Old 01-03-2016, 07:49 PM
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That's awesome to hear your truck is running like a champ especially with the strain from the blower with those miles you put on. You tgink you can break that 12.3 without a built motor? Here's a pic of the new IC tank

 
  #90  
Old 01-03-2016, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by twinskrewd
I'm glad I painted everything last time I had it apart. Will do the valve covers when I swap the GT500 short block.

The alum leg was nothing fancy. Again just 1/8" x 1" alum flat bar. Drilled a hole in it and slid it on the stud coming out of the timing cover. Added a nut to the stud coming out of the timing cover to secure it. It runs up and bends to provide the additional support to the tank.

CFM oil/breather cap working just fine.

As for engine load I'll have to comb my last data log as I can't remember. Vac at idle is 20-21" depending on in gear or park and accessories running. Not bad for 100,400 miles. Never been in the motor and it's been supercharged for 64,405 miles.
20-21 is great! Sounds like that motors got plenty left to give.

My vac is at 22 idle and dips to 20 with accessories and transmission load.. I get 24 vac coasting and pretty steady around 22 without throttle input..
My engine load at idle is around 18 to 20.. This number used to be zero on my old motor, and full boost was happening at 50-55% load. This has me wondering what's different this time.. I replaced every sensor on the motor except the cylinder head temp and knock sensors. The motor runs absolutely perfect, power is perfect and even milage is up. I can't even tell the trucks running when I'm sitting in it, it's that smooth. But I can't help but shake this load reading. I can't imagine what it could be outside of a vacuum leak, or an heightened mechanical load on the drive belt somewhere..
This is why I'm curious to see some other people's load readings and vac numbers.
I've pretty much got zero indications of a vac leak anywhere, but i do have 1 smooth whipple idler pulley that has fresh bearings yet still won't freewheel when spun...
Any input would be great.
 


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