05 5.4 3v build thread
#78
#79
Flex a Lite has a kit for a screw in sensor #32050. They recommend the in hose location, but I have seen it done on the Thermostat housing. (The Drill and Tap are not part of the kit)
Last edited by MeanGene; 01-01-2016 at 11:46 PM. Reason: More Info
#80
Originally Posted by MeanGene
Flex a Lite has a kit for a screw in sensor #32050. They recommend the in hose location, but I have seen it done on the Thermostat housing. (The Drill and Tap are not part of the kit)
I think I will prob go with the hose coupler.. Just need to figure out which controller I want to run.. I hear DCC is hit or miss, and the owner has got some health issues. So I'm leaning towards painless, or flexalite..
Anybody got any good mounting solutions for the whipple coolant reservoir?
#82
I have a temp probe in mine and never had a problem going on almost 2 years with it. I drilled and tapped and put a good amount of Teflon tape to help seal. I just don't want another temp probe in there that's why I bought the flex a lite adapter
#83
Wow. I didn't even want to try it. Had the tap and all ready but after looking it over opted for the Flex-lite part. Nice thing about the Flex-lite part is it is ready to accept two sensors if desired.
#84
Not a bad idea.. I just don't think I'd be able sneak the sensor in there easily with the intake arm in the way.. If I clocked the sensor just right I might be able to squeeze it next to the whipple and intake.
I think I will prob go with the hose coupler.. Just need to figure out which controller I want to run.. I hear DCC is hit or miss, and the owner has got some health issues. So I'm leaning towards painless, or flexalite..
Anybody got any good mounting solutions for the whipple coolant reservoir?
I think I will prob go with the hose coupler.. Just need to figure out which controller I want to run.. I hear DCC is hit or miss, and the owner has got some health issues. So I'm leaning towards painless, or flexalite..
Anybody got any good mounting solutions for the whipple coolant reservoir?
1/8"x1" to make a leg that attached to the stud on the timing chain cover up above the belt tensioner and idler pulley. I simply bent it so that the tank could rest on it.
#85
I was able to mount it with no problem after the e-fan install. Simply secured it to the Motorcraft fan housing. Drilled and tapped. No sweat. Used a piece if alum
1/8"x1" to make a leg that attached to the stud on the timing chain cover up above the belt tensioner and idler pulley. I simply bent it so that the tank could rest on it.
1/8"x1" to make a leg that attached to the stud on the timing chain cover up above the belt tensioner and idler pulley. I simply bent it so that the tank could rest on it.
#86
Yea I put it in the water neck because I had the probes that stuck into the radiator on my old efan setup. Eventually I'll probably put the sensor in the flex a lite adapter. The only thing I don't like about putting the temp sensor for my water temp gauge anywhere after the thermostat is I don't get readings until the tstat opens. For mounting IC Resvoir mine may be mounted differently because I bought the Whipple kit new and I don't have the plastic resvoir you guys have/had mines aluminum and setup a little different
#87
Originally Posted by twinskrewd
Nice they updated the kit. I put that plastic reservoir in the closet. $120 had a custom 5 liter tank made that mounts between the headlight and washer reservoir. Cleaned up things nicely.
So you made a standoff bracket for the front ear on the whipple tank? What did it tie to? The motorcraft fan shroud?
How's that oil cap breather working out?
Also.. What are your engine load readings at idle? How much vac at idle are you seeing, and with the headlights on and heat running what are you getting for numbers?
#88
Yeah that's a nice clean engine bay, even the wiring and hoses.. This makes me wish I painted my alternator, water crossover and intake manifold while I had the chance..
So you made a standoff bracket for the front ear on the whipple tank? What did it tie to? The motorcraft fan shroud?
How's that oil cap breather working out?
Also.. What are your engine load readings at idle? How much vac at idle are you seeing, and with the headlights on and heat running what are you getting for numbers?
So you made a standoff bracket for the front ear on the whipple tank? What did it tie to? The motorcraft fan shroud?
How's that oil cap breather working out?
Also.. What are your engine load readings at idle? How much vac at idle are you seeing, and with the headlights on and heat running what are you getting for numbers?
The alum leg was nothing fancy. Again just 1/8" x 1" alum flat bar. Drilled a hole in it and slid it on the stud coming out of the timing cover. Added a nut to the stud coming out of the timing cover to secure it. It runs up and bends to provide the additional support to the tank.
CFM oil/breather cap working just fine.
As for engine load I'll have to comb my last data log as I can't remember. Vac at idle is 20-21" depending on in gear or park and accessories running. Not bad for 100,400 miles. Never been in the motor and it's been supercharged for 64,405 miles.
Last edited by twinskrewd; 01-03-2016 at 07:47 PM.
#89
#90
Originally Posted by twinskrewd
I'm glad I painted everything last time I had it apart. Will do the valve covers when I swap the GT500 short block.
The alum leg was nothing fancy. Again just 1/8" x 1" alum flat bar. Drilled a hole in it and slid it on the stud coming out of the timing cover. Added a nut to the stud coming out of the timing cover to secure it. It runs up and bends to provide the additional support to the tank.
CFM oil/breather cap working just fine.
As for engine load I'll have to comb my last data log as I can't remember. Vac at idle is 20-21" depending on in gear or park and accessories running. Not bad for 100,400 miles. Never been in the motor and it's been supercharged for 64,405 miles.
The alum leg was nothing fancy. Again just 1/8" x 1" alum flat bar. Drilled a hole in it and slid it on the stud coming out of the timing cover. Added a nut to the stud coming out of the timing cover to secure it. It runs up and bends to provide the additional support to the tank.
CFM oil/breather cap working just fine.
As for engine load I'll have to comb my last data log as I can't remember. Vac at idle is 20-21" depending on in gear or park and accessories running. Not bad for 100,400 miles. Never been in the motor and it's been supercharged for 64,405 miles.
My vac is at 22 idle and dips to 20 with accessories and transmission load.. I get 24 vac coasting and pretty steady around 22 without throttle input..
My engine load at idle is around 18 to 20.. This number used to be zero on my old motor, and full boost was happening at 50-55% load. This has me wondering what's different this time.. I replaced every sensor on the motor except the cylinder head temp and knock sensors. The motor runs absolutely perfect, power is perfect and even milage is up. I can't even tell the trucks running when I'm sitting in it, it's that smooth. But I can't help but shake this load reading. I can't imagine what it could be outside of a vacuum leak, or an heightened mechanical load on the drive belt somewhere..
This is why I'm curious to see some other people's load readings and vac numbers.
I've pretty much got zero indications of a vac leak anywhere, but i do have 1 smooth whipple idler pulley that has fresh bearings yet still won't freewheel when spun...
Any input would be great.