I have a 13 f150 with the coyote 5.0, I would like to supercharge it one day. The only kits I have found for the coyote in the trucks is the procharger, the roush, and the edelbrock. From what I know about the edelbrock, it uses the 2.3 eaton TVS rotors, mounts the rotors upside down and has longer runners to improve the bottom end, but uses the same belt as the accessories. Anyway my question is what is your opinion of the edelbrock system.

Oh and if I come into a large lump sum of cash, I'm going to put in a frpp aluminator crate motor and run the S/C at 15 lbs, otherwise I'll stay at about 12 lbs tops.

 

i would call JDM, they handle both Roush and Procharger so they would have an unbiased opinion of which would work for what it is you want to do.

as for edlebrock, i havent heard good or bad, for whatever reason they just arent that popular in the ford trucks. i guess that Roush and Ford seem to go together.

I would go Roush, but that is me.

 

I agree with BrotherDave. You are going to get completely biased reviews on this here. Call JDM. They've done the installs, the tunes, and have real world results of both. I would also encourage you to look at this thread to see what you can expect power wise and track times http://www.f150forum.com/f70/5-0-qua...s-mods-190134/

The Roush, Magnasun, and Edlebrock are all TVS units. I was not a fan of the Edlebrock version setup for the 5.4 3V due to crappy engineering. The TVS and Procharger will both perform well.

Seen a few trucks running Whipples and Kenne Bells. Can't wrong there. Will require custom tuning and perhaps an inlet mod. But thats about it.

 

Seeing that your truck is a 4x4 and assuming you may lift or put bigger tires on it in the future I'd definitely go with a roots style. Roush's have been around for our trucks and allot of people like em. No need for crate motor, just choose your mods wisely. Keep air fuels safe. Limit boost to 8lbs , giving you room for more boost that will be made with cooler, denser air. In the winter, throw a bigger pulley and pull timing allowing more room to be on safe side as they throw additives in gas for winter blend. In summer, watch your iat temps. Throwing more boost at it isn't always beneficial... faster you spin blower, the hotter temps can get, more timing gets pulled,belts slip easier, etc... put money into keeping rear end stable, taking strain off your carrier bearing and drive shafts. Good luck with your build !

 

Good points Neil. However I wouldn't limit the boost to 8psi. The 5.0's are taking 12-13psi in strides with a good tune just like the 5.4 does. Of course you'll always see people blowing them up with less just as we saw with the 5.4 3v. It's all in the tune, supporting mods, and how you take care of it. Mines knocking on 100k and most of it has been on 11-13psi.

Always take care of the fuel supply: proper size pump and duty cycle, proper injectors and duty cycle. No screwy MAF table settings as some "tooners" do. Air/fuels ratios in the 11's. Keep the fuel filter fresh and always 91 or 93 octane from brands like BP and Shell. $8000 mods and then buy the cheapest gas you can get...you deserve whatever misfortune befalls your ride. Drivetrain and brake upgrades are always a wise course as you approach an additional 150-200+ rwhp over stock.

 

I planned on cal-tracs like you have, and my truck doesn't have a carrier bearing, it's 4wd so I have a transfer case and a 1 piece driveshaft.

Keep the fuel filter fresh and always 91 or 93 octane from brands like BP and Shell. $8000 mods and then buy the cheapest gas you can get...you deserve whatever misfortune befalls your ride. Drivetrain and brake upgrades are always a wise course as you approach an additional 150-200+ rwhp over stock.

I only use shell or sunoco anyway,I also have access to E-85 from sunoco. I planned on the bear big brake kit front and rear.

 

There's no doubt both motors respond well with boost and you've really got a impressive truck which is making serious power but I'm my opinion it wouldnt be safe throwing up to 13 lbs on a motor with 10.5 compression compared to the 9.8 on a 3v . The rings have much tighter tolerances on the 5.0 making it not so forgiving if you rattle it which would be easier to do as boost increases , especially on pump gas.

Just giving my 2 cents with the little knowledge I have... I've been wrung many times so you may want to address what my concerns would be to Jim or whoever you choose to go with. It will just be good to see your updates and learn more from your build

 

Don't forget that the truck coyote uses the same crap powdered metal rods that all non-boosted modular engines use. That's the biggest reason I want to go with the frpp crate motor. They have two versions a low comp one ready for S/Cing, it has 9.5 to 1 and the high comp one running 11 to 1. They both have manley H beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts and forged pistons.

I have heard of lots of guys running 12-13 lbs on a mustang coyote and they have 11 to 1 comp, higher than the 10.5 we have.

My long term plans are the low comp crate motor, stage 2 blower cams from comp cams, stainless works long tubes (they are local and do free installs for vetrans), cal-tracs and 4.10 gears with a tru trac diff in the front (rear has the factory e-locker already) and higher stall convertor, and baer big brake kits front and rear.

 

get the roush 570 hp kit and call it a day.

proven package
http://www.teamjdm.com/2011-2013-5-0...e-2-kit-570hp/

i am thinking that 9 out 10 times this will satisfy your needs, give you a wow factor under the hood and give you less headache.

 

Actually the 5.4 and the 5.0 share the tight ring clearances. The Coyote truck motor sports higher compression at 10.5 as you say but also has piston cooling jets something the 5.4 does not. The trick with either motor as both have high compression for forced induction is the tuning and fuel. An idiot writing a tune adding timing using global spark adders will cause you problems. Running lean even slightly will build heat and boom!! Theres no room for error with the fuel. You can also get in to trouble with the knock sensor settings. They need to be left global and not individual. The KS doesn't hear cylinder 8 as well as others so timing will be added. Buy the time a knock is detected in another cylinder it's to late for number 8. Also have to be careful about how much timing is added at lower engine speeds under load. Another great opportunity to kill a motor.

Not saying any of this to scare anyone. This can happen on bone stock mod motors with a custom tune. The mod motors are awesome and keep getting better. They cannot run lean and timing is a science.

 

All the kits will work great with that high compression motor.

The Stang whipple will bolt right on but need to modify the inlet elbow as it hits the brake booster.

Look for secondhand.