04-08 5.4 ROUSH Install questions
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Weeeeeziana
04-08 5.4 ROUSH Install questions
First and foremost, Ive bought a used kit from a guy on a local forum, and it doesn't come with the instruction manual, so i am in need of one, or a website that has the PDF, which i have searched high and low for and cannot seem to find. So if anyone has a link, or a set of install instructions they would be willing to scan and send me that would be great.
I am planning on taking my time to gather everything need to do it right, that said, can anyone recommend a tuner and a specific tune(s) that can be used with my edge programmer that i already have?
Do i need an aux fuel pump no matter the tune?
Given the type of spark plugs for the triton, is there a different temperature available for charged applications, or is it necessary?
and finally if anyone has any tips and tricks from their install experience, please feel free to chime in.
Thanks all
I am planning on taking my time to gather everything need to do it right, that said, can anyone recommend a tuner and a specific tune(s) that can be used with my edge programmer that i already have?
Do i need an aux fuel pump no matter the tune?
Given the type of spark plugs for the triton, is there a different temperature available for charged applications, or is it necessary?
and finally if anyone has any tips and tricks from their install experience, please feel free to chime in.
Thanks all
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Weeeeeziana
Welcome. Glad to see another blown F-150 out here! Would love to see some pics of your truck it's going in!!! ill work on digging some out
Send an e-mail to trixtersracingllc@yahoo.com and I will forward the manual to you, ASAP. sent and THANK YOU
I am working with Chris (Owner of a Roush Stage III), and two others regarding making more power by upgrading the intercooler first, then looking at dropping charge temps below ambient (In a logical process). You will want to keep your eye on the "Roush Stage III" thread, and another titled "Upgrade questions". You will make number 5, in the line of Roush blown trucks I am working with right now. We maximize the intercooler, then you can add boost!
SCT is what JDM uses to tune these setups, and they are the only company Roush recommends. JDM was the first to start modifying them and are making more power with them than others in the field are. This coming from Roush.
One main tip is Chris and I are relocating your heat exchanger. This is just the beginning. Once we increase the efficiency of this system, we will look at JDM supplied Roush heat exchangers for the intercooler upgrades (Up to 60% increase in capacity) and tuning. We will at least double heat exchanger capacity. Most likely more. If you are ready to install this blower, go ahead and install it as outlined, as we can relocate the heat exchanger with quickness. The brackets are almost completed working drawings on their way to CNC.
I would recommend the 0 degree FRPP plugs, gapped to about .030-.035". There are other brands some will comment on. Take all the input you can and weigh the options. A brand preference? This is my recommendation because Ford designed them for blower motors. do you have a link for these?
If it is an out of the box installation at the stock boost level, you do not need a pump. When we start pushing it, we are forced to use a Boost a Pump for this intermediate power level, although not by choice. JDM documented the stock pump is going to support 420-450 RWHP.
im not looking to go racing, so i think ill be happy with the "stock" capabilities
Pumps are under development for 400-1000 HP, as are Flex-Fuel applications.
Send an e-mail to trixtersracingllc@yahoo.com and I will forward the manual to you, ASAP. sent and THANK YOU
I am working with Chris (Owner of a Roush Stage III), and two others regarding making more power by upgrading the intercooler first, then looking at dropping charge temps below ambient (In a logical process). You will want to keep your eye on the "Roush Stage III" thread, and another titled "Upgrade questions". You will make number 5, in the line of Roush blown trucks I am working with right now. We maximize the intercooler, then you can add boost!
- Is the kit complete? The system, injectors, and the Roush tune?
I have the plenum, blower, pulley bracket, air intake, and gaskets. from my searches, i seem to be missing the top radiator hose, belt, fan adapter and pulley, which Im afraid will be hard to find - Does it have a smaller pulley installed like 2.8"? Stock
- Do you have gauges? no gauge
- Do you need a complete custom tune for the Edge? I also need to know if you still have access to the original Roush code (Is that what the truck is running on now)? What about an SCT XCAL? i have an edge with canned tunes, so if i can avoid buying another tuner, id like to do that, but im open to doing what its necessary to run safely
- What is your HP goal to the tires? realistically im just looking for some more pep, will be happy with 375 ish
SCT is what JDM uses to tune these setups, and they are the only company Roush recommends. JDM was the first to start modifying them and are making more power with them than others in the field are. This coming from Roush.
One main tip is Chris and I are relocating your heat exchanger. This is just the beginning. Once we increase the efficiency of this system, we will look at JDM supplied Roush heat exchangers for the intercooler upgrades (Up to 60% increase in capacity) and tuning. We will at least double heat exchanger capacity. Most likely more. If you are ready to install this blower, go ahead and install it as outlined, as we can relocate the heat exchanger with quickness. The brackets are almost completed working drawings on their way to CNC.
I would recommend the 0 degree FRPP plugs, gapped to about .030-.035". There are other brands some will comment on. Take all the input you can and weigh the options. A brand preference? This is my recommendation because Ford designed them for blower motors. do you have a link for these?
If it is an out of the box installation at the stock boost level, you do not need a pump. When we start pushing it, we are forced to use a Boost a Pump for this intermediate power level, although not by choice. JDM documented the stock pump is going to support 420-450 RWHP.
im not looking to go racing, so i think ill be happy with the "stock" capabilities
Pumps are under development for 400-1000 HP, as are Flex-Fuel applications.
Last edited by locktyght; May 14, 2014 at 10:27 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 1
From: BC, Canada
Stock pump will be fine.
Watch for the knock sensor harness while pulling the intake manifold.
Change the Serp belt as its a pig once the caged lower is installed.
You probably have the correct balancer so no worries there.
Hit the fan hub with an air hammer to free it off. I assume you have the entire kit?
5-20 synthetic and a ford filter. Do the fuel filter at the same time. Drain your tank down driving then brim it with 91 ethenol free gas.
The manual can be downloaded. Iam on a stupid I-phone so cannot help.
Watch for the knock sensor harness while pulling the intake manifold.
Change the Serp belt as its a pig once the caged lower is installed.
You probably have the correct balancer so no worries there.
Hit the fan hub with an air hammer to free it off. I assume you have the entire kit?
5-20 synthetic and a ford filter. Do the fuel filter at the same time. Drain your tank down driving then brim it with 91 ethenol free gas.
The manual can be downloaded. Iam on a stupid I-phone so cannot help.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Weeeeeziana
Stock pump will be fine.
Watch for the knock sensor harness while pulling the intake manifold.
Change the Serp belt as its a pig once the caged lower is installed.
You probably have the correct balancer so no worries there.
Hit the fan hub with an air hammer to free it off. I assume you have the entire kit?
5-20 synthetic and a ford filter. Do the fuel filter at the same time. Drain your tank down driving then brim it with 91 ethenol free gas.
The manual can be downloaded. I am on a stupid I-phone so cannot help.
Watch for the knock sensor harness while pulling the intake manifold.
Change the Serp belt as its a pig once the caged lower is installed.
You probably have the correct balancer so no worries there.
Hit the fan hub with an air hammer to free it off. I assume you have the entire kit?
5-20 synthetic and a ford filter. Do the fuel filter at the same time. Drain your tank down driving then brim it with 91 ethenol free gas.
The manual can be downloaded. I am on a stupid I-phone so cannot help.
Im scouring the deepest depths of the internet trying to find an aftermarket place(s) and forums in hopes that I can piece meal the kit together, and if it all goes south, at least ill have a badass paperweight for my desk at work!
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 164
Likes: 1
From: Bennington, NE 68007
Looks he needs this stuff:
"from my searches, i seem to be missing the top radiator hose, belt, fan adapter and pulley, which Im afraid will be hard to find"
"from my searches, i seem to be missing the top radiator hose, belt, fan adapter and pulley, which Im afraid will be hard to find"
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Weeeeeziana
item 37- Supercharger drive pulley
item 38-Belt
item 39-SC drive pullery adapter
item 40-Fan Spacer
item 47-Upper radiator hose
Item 48- Pcv Hose
Item 49- Vacuum Harness IPTS
Item 50- Vacuum Harness SC bypass
item 55- Bypass solenoid bracket assembly
Item 56- Bypass reservoir mounting bracket
Item 58- Power steering relocation bracket
item 62- Electrical Jumper-bypass solenoid
item 63- electrical Jumper ACT
item 64- Intercooler pump electrical harness
item 72- Intercooler electric pump (which i think ive found on ebay)
Item 73- Degas bottle
Item 74- Low temp radiator
Also, will need a tune put on to my current edge programmer, or send off my PCM, OR buy a new tuner from a tuner of you guys' advising.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 1
From: BC, Canada
^^^ I will look when it get in from work ^^^
1) Fan hub and bracket : CHECK
2) Ps Relocate : I MIGHT
3) IC bottle : CHECK
4) IC pump : CHECK (Whippy)
5) IC Rad : CHECK (Whippy)
I got allot of Roush Stuff and Whipple.
Start a wanted thread or summit.
1) Fan hub and bracket : CHECK
2) Ps Relocate : I MIGHT
3) IC bottle : CHECK
4) IC pump : CHECK (Whippy)
5) IC Rad : CHECK (Whippy)
I got allot of Roush Stuff and Whipple.
Start a wanted thread or summit.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Weeeeeziana
Sweet! Thanks Ross! Very cool of you. People coming together is why I love this place. People like you make the world go round!
Locktyght- Take them up on their offers! One of the pitfalls in buying a used kit. But I will do what I can to make the project a success. I do have accounts with Roush dealers, but not Roush directly. The main one being JDM. Please be advised, Roush does not produce this system anymore. Yes, i am aware of this, i was in contact with them the other day and they advised me they sold thier back stock to stage3 motorsports Not saying I can't get new parts though, just saying it may take some work. I called Nick, and he requested I forward your list. Consider it done. Will post when I get a response. And can save you a bit of cash.
I will check back here and see what Ross can scratch off your list.
But I am happy to help you.
My advice would be to switch to SCT. This way we have access to the JDM tunes, as they have more experience with these systems than anyone else. Roush even referred me to them. An email tune costs about $350, without the tool. can i still run the edge for the real time monitoring of the engine functions such as IAT's coolant temps and the like?
Derek
Locktyght- Take them up on their offers! One of the pitfalls in buying a used kit. But I will do what I can to make the project a success. I do have accounts with Roush dealers, but not Roush directly. The main one being JDM. Please be advised, Roush does not produce this system anymore. Yes, i am aware of this, i was in contact with them the other day and they advised me they sold thier back stock to stage3 motorsports Not saying I can't get new parts though, just saying it may take some work. I called Nick, and he requested I forward your list. Consider it done. Will post when I get a response. And can save you a bit of cash.
I will check back here and see what Ross can scratch off your list.
But I am happy to help you.
My advice would be to switch to SCT. This way we have access to the JDM tunes, as they have more experience with these systems than anyone else. Roush even referred me to them. An email tune costs about $350, without the tool. can i still run the edge for the real time monitoring of the engine functions such as IAT's coolant temps and the like?
Derek
And again big thanks for the help from all of you!
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 1
From: BC, Canada
Hey av been home for a little while and am 'Rat-Bagged'
I had a look for some parts and found the following:
1) Fan Spacer & Bracket with bolt.
2) Head unit to discharge gasket (Metal)
3) Degas bottle & Cap.
4) Vac line, (Mid-plate to FRPS)
5) IC Pump & Harness & mount.
6) Two IC rads, one Whippy, one Garret.
7) Intake Filter housing, 90* pipe.
Erm that's all I found during a quick look. I will take a better look tomorrow on my split.
Defo %100 seen the PS relocate but it eludes me ATM. Also found a small bag of crush limiting washers. Only a slack handful.
No luck with the bypass set up as I sold this to Jeff a while back so he could get going.
LFP Pulley hub with ring. Probably be cheaper to use a hub / ring set up over the caged system.
PCV line. Mmm that's like $280 to buy new. Best off just using rubber hose until you figure a better solution out.
Just get some decent 3/4 heater hose and be done with it.
Lets hope you have the FEAD bridge?
I had a look for some parts and found the following:
1) Fan Spacer & Bracket with bolt.
2) Head unit to discharge gasket (Metal)
3) Degas bottle & Cap.
4) Vac line, (Mid-plate to FRPS)
5) IC Pump & Harness & mount.
6) Two IC rads, one Whippy, one Garret.
7) Intake Filter housing, 90* pipe.
Erm that's all I found during a quick look. I will take a better look tomorrow on my split.
Defo %100 seen the PS relocate but it eludes me ATM. Also found a small bag of crush limiting washers. Only a slack handful.
No luck with the bypass set up as I sold this to Jeff a while back so he could get going.
LFP Pulley hub with ring. Probably be cheaper to use a hub / ring set up over the caged system.
PCV line. Mmm that's like $280 to buy new. Best off just using rubber hose until you figure a better solution out.
Just get some decent 3/4 heater hose and be done with it.
Lets hope you have the FEAD bridge?
Last edited by Ross-FX4; May 16, 2014 at 11:39 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: WA
First and foremost, Ive bought a used kit from a guy on a local forum, and it doesn't come with the instruction manual, so i am in need of one, or a website that has the PDF, which i have searched high and low for and cannot seem to find. So if anyone has a link, or a set of install instructions they would be willing to scan and send me that would be great.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 164
Likes: 1
From: Bennington, NE 68007
I suggest you "ditch" the boost bypass limiter and just use direct vacuum to hook up your bypass. JDM has a 3 page PDF with pics that shows you how to do it. Roush limits boost to like 6 PSI from factory. This mod eliminates that. Plus, you won't need to find all the bypass crap in the forums, let alone pay for the worthless stuff. If you email me jeffbanghart@***.net I can forward that PDF to you.
With the Factory Roush setup if you change pulley sizes it still limits your boost. That's the only function it serves. If you want 10 PSI you can't have it with the limiter in place.
All you do is run a vacuum line the from the back of intake (Use the port for it) to the FRPS and use a "T" to run a line to the Bypass port on the bypass. You can then use another "T" for your boost gauge from the same line. It is very clean, easy and simple. And it works.
With the Factory Roush setup if you change pulley sizes it still limits your boost. That's the only function it serves. If you want 10 PSI you can't have it with the limiter in place.
All you do is run a vacuum line the from the back of intake (Use the port for it) to the FRPS and use a "T" to run a line to the Bypass port on the bypass. You can then use another "T" for your boost gauge from the same line. It is very clean, easy and simple. And it works.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Weeeeeziana
Hey av been home for a little while and am 'Rat-Bagged'
I had a look for some parts and found the following:
1) Fan Spacer & Bracket with bolt.
2) Head unit to discharge gasket (Metal)
3) Degas bottle & Cap.
4) Vac line, (Mid-plate to FRPS)
5) IC Pump & Harness & mount.
6) Two IC rads, one Whippy, one Garret.
7) Intake Filter housing, 90* pipe. I have the CAI setup so im good there
Erm that's all I found during a quick look. I will take a better look tomorrow on my split.
Defo %100 seen the PS relocate but it eludes me ATM. Also found a small bag of crush limiting washers. Only a slack handful.
No luck with the bypass set up as I sold this to Jeff a while back so he could get going.
LFP Pulley hub with ring. Probably be cheaper to use a hub / ring set up over the caged system.
PCV line. Mmm that's like $280 to buy new. Best off just using rubber hose until you figure a better solution out.
Just get some decent 3/4 heater hose and be done with it.
Lets hope you have the FEAD bridge?I have the idler/tensioner setup if thats what the bridge is
I had a look for some parts and found the following:
1) Fan Spacer & Bracket with bolt.
2) Head unit to discharge gasket (Metal)
3) Degas bottle & Cap.
4) Vac line, (Mid-plate to FRPS)
5) IC Pump & Harness & mount.
6) Two IC rads, one Whippy, one Garret.
7) Intake Filter housing, 90* pipe. I have the CAI setup so im good there
Erm that's all I found during a quick look. I will take a better look tomorrow on my split.
Defo %100 seen the PS relocate but it eludes me ATM. Also found a small bag of crush limiting washers. Only a slack handful.
No luck with the bypass set up as I sold this to Jeff a while back so he could get going.
LFP Pulley hub with ring. Probably be cheaper to use a hub / ring set up over the caged system.
PCV line. Mmm that's like $280 to buy new. Best off just using rubber hose until you figure a better solution out.
Just get some decent 3/4 heater hose and be done with it.
Lets hope you have the FEAD bridge?I have the idler/tensioner setup if thats what the bridge is
I suggest you "ditch" the boost bypass limiter and just use direct vacuum to hook up your bypass. JDM has a 3 page PDF with pics that shows you how to do it. Roush limits boost to like 6 PSI from factory. This mod eliminates that. Plus, you won't need to find all the bypass crap in the forums, let alone pay for the worthless stuff. If you email me jeffbanghart@***.net I can forward that PDF to you.
With the Factory Roush setup if you change pulley sizes it still limits your boost. That's the only function it serves. If you want 10 PSI you can't have it with the limiter in place.
All you do is run a vacuum line the from the back of intake (Use the port for it) to the FRPS and use a "T" to run a line to the Bypass port on the bypass. You can then use another "T" for your boost gauge from the same line. It is very clean, easy and simple. And it works.
With the Factory Roush setup if you change pulley sizes it still limits your boost. That's the only function it serves. If you want 10 PSI you can't have it with the limiter in place.
All you do is run a vacuum line the from the back of intake (Use the port for it) to the FRPS and use a "T" to run a line to the Bypass port on the bypass. You can then use another "T" for your boost gauge from the same line. It is very clean, easy and simple. And it works.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 1
From: BC, Canada
No worries. Just let me know exactly what you need?
Iam in nights for two shifts so the weekend is blown.
As far as I can see. If you remove the by-pass set up (Am at 11psi on it) then you only really need the Fan spacer and bracket. The PS bracket can be fabbed. The lower pulley can be replaced with a hub. I can throw a hub into the mix.
Your gonna have to rig the top hose or search OEM part for t. It can be bought fairly easy.
Iam in nights for two shifts so the weekend is blown.
As far as I can see. If you remove the by-pass set up (Am at 11psi on it) then you only really need the Fan spacer and bracket. The PS bracket can be fabbed. The lower pulley can be replaced with a hub. I can throw a hub into the mix.
Your gonna have to rig the top hose or search OEM part for t. It can be bought fairly easy.