Upgrade Questions
#46
Well I have the 6lb pulley ordered along with a 20a boost a pump. I also have an appointment on the 13th of this month to dyno and tune it. I will be installing the pulley the day before I get it on the dyno
I could just install it, turn it down all the way and that would save me $100/hr in labor to install it.
I could just install it, turn it down all the way and that would save me $100/hr in labor to install it.
Go with it! Drive easy to the dyno so no issues. Can't wait to see your results.
#48
Corey: That lower pulley you have turns in the opposite direction to remove it. I remember hitting my allen bolt with a 1/2 impact forever and didn't need to. remove the 3 or 4 bolts on the cage and unscrew the pulley (reverse threads). I could do mine with my hands. The newer system you are buying (metco) is much better. Make sure you reuse the washers with the metco bolts or else the bolts are long enough that they screw into the block and the pulley won't turn. I left off the washers and mine rubbed badly. I figured it out right away though.
Agree with Jason: shorty headers don't provide much and they are very hard to install. I have OBX Long Tubes and they are great but were quite a challenge to install.
Agree with Jason: shorty headers don't provide much and they are very hard to install. I have OBX Long Tubes and they are great but were quite a challenge to install.
Last edited by jeffbang62; 05-02-2014 at 06:30 AM.
#49
My exhaust system sounds pretty good the way it is now, so I do not really want to do anything with it right now. Down the road, maybe long tubes and true dual 2.5" with mandrel bends.
I know this pulley install should go pretty smoothly, but I couldn't seem to find any videos anywhere or write up with pictures and step by step on how to do with with an 04-08. Maybe I missed something, but if anyone knows of one please share.
I know this pulley install should go pretty smoothly, but I couldn't seem to find any videos anywhere or write up with pictures and step by step on how to do with with an 04-08. Maybe I missed something, but if anyone knows of one please share.
#51
Would a meth injection system be beneficial in my case? If I were to get one, I would have it set up to just run at WOT! My tuner has a lot of experience with these setups so I am not worried about getting it tuned correctly. There are a million other things I could do to my truck, but for about $350, a meth setup seems like a pretty good idea to me. Like I said, it would ONLY be set to run at WOT! I would just get a tune for "daily driving" and a MAX performance one with the meth running?
SOOOO MANY THINGS TO THINK ABOUT!!!!! AHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
SOOOO MANY THINGS TO THINK ABOUT!!!!! AHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
#52
Would a meth injection system be beneficial in my case? If I were to get one, I would have it set up to just run at WOT! My tuner has a lot of experience with these setups so I am not worried about getting it tuned correctly. There are a million other things I could do to my truck, but for about $350, a meth setup seems like a pretty good idea to me. Like I said, it would ONLY be set to run at WOT! I would just get a tune for "daily driving" and a MAX performance one with the meth running?
SOOOO MANY THINGS TO THINK ABOUT!!!!! AHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
SOOOO MANY THINGS TO THINK ABOUT!!!!! AHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!
#53
I thought if you sprayed meth pre throttle body, it isnt a bad thing? Otherwise even it is after the throttle body, it would still go through the supercharger first before going to the engine. Where would be an appropriate place to inject meth then?
I do like the Snow Performance set-ups as I have read a lot of good things about them. Would a stage 1 kit be good enough if I decided to go this route? http://www.snowperformance.net/stage...st-cooler.html
I do like the Snow Performance set-ups as I have read a lot of good things about them. Would a stage 1 kit be good enough if I decided to go this route? http://www.snowperformance.net/stage...st-cooler.html
Last edited by corey4631; 05-05-2014 at 06:35 PM.
#54
A quick read on the subject. As long as you're Gen5 and up you should be ok.
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...icle_info.html
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...icle_info.html
#56
Corey: That lower pulley you have turns in the opposite direction to remove it. I remember hitting my allen bolt with a 1/2 impact forever and didn't need to. remove the 3 or 4 bolts on the cage and unscrew the pulley (reverse threads). I could do mine with my hands. The newer system you are buying (metco) is much better. Make sure you reuse the washers with the metco bolts or else the bolts are long enough that they screw into the block and the pulley won't turn. I left off the washers and mine rubbed badly. I figured it out right away though.
#57
The Bottom pulley spins off to the right (opposite of what you would think). If it is the "caged pulley" you have to remove 3 or 4 cage bolts and then spin the pulley off to the right with your hands or a strap wrench. It should come off.
#58
OK, on my drive to work, my engine was running totally fine! Taking off from a stop sign normal and it started sputtering around 2,500-3,000 RPMs. Now this same thing just did happen maybe 3 months ago. Turned out to be the catalytic converter was plugged %95. I would imagine that this time, it is the other cat that is the problem. The Ford dealer charged me $1,400 to diagnosis and change the bad cat. I sure as hell do NOT want to spend another $1,400 to change the other side now! Hell, for that kinda money, I could just buy long tubes and delete the cats?
So, now here I sit with an ordeal. Could it be something else besides a cat, yes, but highly doubtful. Do I take it back to the dealer and tell them that the same thing is happening as before and have them check the cat they put in to see if it is good? Do I just say screw it and buy some long tubes and delete the cats if that is possible??
I suppose right over 100,000 miles is when I am gonna have to start replacing stuff....lol
So, now here I sit with an ordeal. Could it be something else besides a cat, yes, but highly doubtful. Do I take it back to the dealer and tell them that the same thing is happening as before and have them check the cat they put in to see if it is good? Do I just say screw it and buy some long tubes and delete the cats if that is possible??
I suppose right over 100,000 miles is when I am gonna have to start replacing stuff....lol
#59
OK, on my drive to work, my engine was running totally fine! Taking off from a stop sign normal and it started sputtering around 2,500-3,000 RPMs. Now this same thing just did happen maybe 3 months ago. Turned out to be the catalytic converter was plugged %95. I would imagine that this time, it is the other cat that is the problem. The Ford dealer charged me $1,400 to diagnosis and change the bad cat. I sure as hell do NOT want to spend another $1,400 to change the other side now! Hell, for that kinda money, I could just buy long tubes and delete the cats?
So, now here I sit with an ordeal. Could it be something else besides a cat, yes, but highly doubtful. Do I take it back to the dealer and tell them that the same thing is happening as before and have them check the cat they put in to see if it is good? Do I just say screw it and buy some long tubes and delete the cats if that is possible??
I suppose right over 100,000 miles is when I am gonna have to start replacing stuff....lol
So, now here I sit with an ordeal. Could it be something else besides a cat, yes, but highly doubtful. Do I take it back to the dealer and tell them that the same thing is happening as before and have them check the cat they put in to see if it is good? Do I just say screw it and buy some long tubes and delete the cats if that is possible??
I suppose right over 100,000 miles is when I am gonna have to start replacing stuff....lol
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Jim
Jim