Sure you can. You just have to run fully synthetic radiator fluid

 

Good one...lol

 

MMR can wet sleeve the block to get you to 5.8 liters with the stock crank. The 2013 Shelby GT500 block is bored out to accommodate the larger bore, but the bore uses a Plasma Transferred Wire Arc (PTWA) cylinder liner coating instead of a metal sleeve. This is the same technology Ford used in the aluminum 11-12 GT500 blocks and no one seems able to duplicate it. Neither option would be a cheap way to pick up 20 cubic inches.

 

I still don't believe it...lol
I know a guy that got an aluminum block (DSS racing) bored out and sleeved to a 6.0 and it cost him 10K but never heard of anyone taking a cast iron block out to 5.8
GT500 is an aluminum block!

 

I didn't know if he had an aluminum block or not. They can be taken to a 6.2L with bore and stroke. The new GT500 is 5.8l and I think stroke is same as 5.4 but aluminum

 

The 2007 to 2010 GT500s had iron blocks. In 2011, they went to aluminum blocks. Check out the MMR351R on MMR's website if you don't believe they do this with iron blocks. Check post 7 on this thread for a pic of the sleeved iron block.

 

Well, you know what they say. "Seeing is believing"
So when did they come out with that?

 

Bingo! Hence my question on 5.8... I've not seen anyone add more stroke for the 5.8L only 6.0 and above. 5.8 guys usually go bore first then 6.0-6.2 they add more stroke. Which is why I asked as 99% of the people seem to keep the stock 5.4 as it can still make gobs of power

 

Yeah, To save some money. I went with 20 over so if theres a problem later, I can take it to 30 over.

 

I really can't imagine stroking this motor. The bore is already small compared to the stroke. I would think idle quality would be out the window to. Probably couldn't spin her more than 6k either. Just my thoughts. For the money involved I would swap everything for the 4v running 20+ lbs of boost.

 

I don't see this happening anytime soon. She's burning 6.1 lbs of fuel per minute at WOT which happens to be the exact same fuel burn as a Roush charger on 10 psi. Mike and I were both very impressed with the burn rates and efficiency. Boost crept up to 14psi a few times and I turned white as a sheet. But he reassured me with the fuel burn rates. It's not taking near as much energy to operate the Whipple as it would the Roush therefore the power is going to the wheels and not wasted turning the blower. The crank is experiencing the same forces and stresses that it would with a Heaton running 10psi. My volumetric efficiency was 168% and cylinder pressure was between 1700-1800psi, all with boost temps 86-90degrees. (Can't help but laugh at the Heatons) She was rocking to say the least. Looking forward to getting back on the track with fresh plugs and my new TPS sensor installed.

 

I'm not completely sure, but it's probably within this year's timeframe.

 

What where your EGT temps do you know? Also, your TPS, when you went to the BBK did you change out the parts with your orginal TB or did you buy it off someone used? I bought mine of weazel and he already changed out the internals with another TB but so far I haven't had any issues but I kept my stock TB just incase.

 

I'm revining my truck up to 6300 rpms right now cus my stock intake won't keep making pwr past that, but if wanted I could go to 7k rpms with no problem.

 

Yea its a stock "stroke" motor but thats why this motor makes 365TQ over chevys "square" 5.3 that makes like 300TQ. The stroker kit that does a 6.2 (with aluminum block) just seems like a bit much and really is probably just a waste of money that could be spent on better internals and heads to help the blower make the power. Im honestly not sold on 4v conversions. It flows better but VCT does make power in the lower end that the 4v cannot match, but the 3v cannot flow like the 4v in the top end. I dont see any reason a 3v cannot make 600-700RWHP the same as a 4v.