Cam Shafts

Old Oct 31, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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Huitt24's Avatar
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Cam Shafts

Does anybody have any good recomendations for cams for the 3V 5.4L?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 05:21 AM
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Thumbs up

Looking forward to the responses on this one!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 06:22 AM
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I was looking at the ones by cushmanmotorsports. They have a couple grinds to choose from.
http://www.cushmanmotorsports.com/in...29_230_141_145
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 08:11 AM
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Comp cams
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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With your setup I would get the most aggressive cam you can stand. You have a built shortblock and ported heads, let that baby scream in the RPMS.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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the CMS Stage 2.5 cams looks good on paper. My question is I have 4.30 gears and a factory stall would I have to change it to 3000?

1500-7000 rpm. Custom tuning needed. Best with 3.73+ gears & 3000+ stall. Aggressive idle...no hiding these babies!

.540"/.560" lift, 235/245 .050" duration, 116LSA
 

Last edited by Huitt24; Nov 1, 2011 at 02:54 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Factory stall is about 2800ish. I would think your 4.30 gearing would make up for the lack of extra stall. Especially if they only recommend 3.73 gears. I would almost call up a few places that grind cams and see if you cant actually get a custom ground cam for your setup.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 09:54 PM
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Cushman cams are amazing. I used them in quite a few builds of mine. Most were 4.6L 2v like my 700rwhp 2v but I would completely trust Jim's 3v cams. I plan to use Jim's cams for this build I'm getting ready to start
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Huitt24
the CMS Stage 2.5 cams looks good on paper. My question is I have 4.30 gears and a factory stall would I have to change it to 3000?

1500-7000 rpm. Custom tuning needed. Best with 3.73+ gears & 3000+ stall. Aggressive idle...no hiding these babies!

.540"/.560" lift, 235/245 .050" duration, 116LSA
That was the grind I was looking hard at as well, but the idea of changing out the valve springs is what is keeping me from getting them. Not sure if I should go via removing the heads or using air to hold up the valves while swapping the springs out, or spending a lot of money and have a shop do it.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:08 PM
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with the proper tools changing the valve springs is not that hard to do while they are in the truck. I did a valve spring change where I had to shove 1/4 rope in the cylinder then compressed it to keep the valves in place. I am getting older so I am almost tempted to let a shop do it.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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With air pressure in the cylinder to keep the valves in place you can use these tools to change out the springs carefully.

http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/3V-...39-1175-TD.htm
 
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