and what year is the gen 2 rt-10 viper and cg vetter that you are talking about. Just so I can do some research on them.

 

Look for C5 or C6 corvettes, 97-up

96+ Viper 96-99 Vipers come with forged motors from the factory and can hold 1000rwhp on the stock shortblock. 03+ Vipers Gen 3 vipers are tamer then the Gen 2(96-02).

Just have to watch prices. I've seen gts go for 35k. RT-10 I've seen Low 20'
s to high 30's. 03+ vipers I've seen for low 40's. That being said you must look for these prices.

From what you are saying, I think you would be happier with a Vette. Vipers are wild animals, and mods for them can get very very expensive in a hurry. Granted you start with 450+hp. There are just a little over 20,000 vipers ever made since 1992... Where there are over 30,000 vettes made every year..

Full bolt on Gen 2 vipers will run mid to low 11's at around 125mph in the quarter. Same with c5/c6 vettes. Full bolt on Gen 3's can do high 10's at upper 120 mph. Both vette and viper will still be very realiable, and make 25+mpg.

Honestly if you have not been crazy about a viper before, you probally wont be now.

 

Repost

Yeah I will deffinetly take some time and look into it. With the viper and vette, what bolt on parts can be added that they dont already have? are you saying that they already come with a stong enough tranny that doesnt need to be built? But yeah, I will be doing a bunch of research before I purchase anything, will probably browse through the mustang and vette forums to see whats going on.

One other thing, since I only plan on going with the 10 psi kit on my setup with a set of cams I dont think I would need a dual gt fuel pump setup. So what I am wondering is what would be the best route as far as getting a larger pump or just getting a boost a pump? and do you feel 60# injectors would still be nesesary or not?

 

The vette and viper both come with strong t-56 trannys, with the viper having the strongest. An upgrade you normally see for high hp mustangs/camaros is usually a "viper spec" t-56. The t-56 does have it's weak points, but up to a few years ago the t-56 was about the strongest 6spd tranny you could get. The factory clutch in the viper is good to about 750-800rwhp. A lot of guys even with a little more power still rock the factory clutch, and just replace them every 5000-10,000 miles. They are only about $250 for a clutch. 5,000-10,000 miles might not be much, but considering most vipers have under 30k miles on them(my 97 has only 23,000 miles on it) 5-10k miles will last a few years.

Your typcial bolt ons, long tube headers, cai, pulleys, throttle bodys, exhaust, rocker arms, good tune, etc. Vipers with head work, intake work, and a cam with bolt ons will do 600-650rwhp. Expect to pay 5-6k for that. Same with a vette. You can go the boost route and for about 10k be at even more power. At that point, you are going to spend the same amount of money for more performance weather it's a vette, viper, mustang, camaro, etc.




39# injectors absolute max out around 440-450rwhp on the twinscrew/roots blowers. Personally I would go 60# injectors and not max out 39#..Which is exactly what I'm doing. I would imagine a single ford GT 310lph pump and a boost a pump will be all you need(that's also what I plan on doing).

Cam shafts, long tubes, and head port work will lower your PSI pressure from your blower. So your 10psi kit with long tubes and a cam shaft might only be 7-8psi. Which is fine. You will still be at your power level with less "force" on your stock internals, and lower cylinder temps. Win win...

You really don't need cam shafts to reach that power level, but it will lower your boost pressure, more power, and give you a really nice idle.

 

So are you saying that I cant go with just a gt pump, or just a boost a pump? Do you have a good link to a 310lph pump, I have been looking for one but am having trouble finding which one I need and what all I would need to make it work.

I plan on getting cams (still undecided between stage 1 and 2) but I think I will just keep my Gibson exhaust and save the money for the car instead of getting the dynatech lt with true duals. Your thoughts?

 

You might just be able to get away with a boost a pump, or just a 310lph pump. I'm not sure. You are right there at that border. Call the ford house, or any mustang performance shop and they can get you a 310lph pump.

I would get long tubes and true duals over cam shafts, actually I wouldn't do camshafts unless you have long tubes. OBX long tubes are very nice quality and stainless for half the price of dynatech's. You can sell your gibson cat back, and probally get away with a complete new exhaust system installed cheaper then the cam shafts installed and see as much, if not more power.

 

I think I will go with the boost a pump for now, then get the 310lph later if need be.

Why would you go with headers before cams? How much do cams cost to install? I was looking into getting these headers http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts...0A3119858.aspx , to replace my gibson headers but I really didnt want to do another header install. I have no idea what to do with exhaust, maybe just have a local exhaust shop fab one up. Although Ide rather install the exhaust myself being how easy it is and save the money. Could I just go with those long tubes and my gibson for now?

I looked into the obx lt really quick and read that someone thought they were cheap. Just found these http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/h11455s.html , they look ok. $1000 bucks cheaper then the other link I put on here.

 

Check into the FRPP hot rod cams. They have a wicked idle and from everything I have read on multiple mustang forums you WILL NOT lose any bottom end power and gain top end. You don't need to replace your springs with them either which is the best thing about them. I do believe their is some kind of spacer that you need for them but other than that and the cams themselves you don't need anything else except for a tune of course. But I totally agree with Fatherford. Long tubes need to be first. You need to get more flow and less restrictions. Long tubes were one of the first mods that I did along with the true duals. I am NA for now and did notice a slight decrease in my truck off the line but could definitely feel the gain uptop. But with a twin screw you aren't going to notice any low end power loss at all. I'm in the same boat as you 06, I would love to build my motor and put down well over 500hp but at the end of the day it's still a 6000lb brick. I will probably end up going with the new e-force supercharger and then some cams and call it a day on my truck. I have been looking at vette's, cts-v's, and 6 series BMW's just for something fun to drive that will get up and go. I will never get rid of this truck though since It was a gift from my gpa and it's paid for! Who knows though down the road I might completely build the motor but for now I would rather buy a car that's fun to drive and gets good fuel mileage. I know this is a ford site but the LS motors respond so much better to mods then the modulars. They make way more power with just a few bolt ons than a fully moded stang. Good luck with whatever route you decide to go!

 

I have forgot you have shorty headers. Although the power gain from them is minimal, you will still get the flow you need.

You will need headers(your shorty's will work) over cams over the principle of just doing what headers and cams do... Move more air. If a stock cam is already choked by stock manifolds, adding a bigger cam that flows even more air you won't see much improvement due to the still existing choke down stream(stock manifolds).

I know from personal experience, that going from a single y pipe setup to a true dual setup gained me gobs of power on my old Vortech setup. I went from Stock Manifolds, stock cats, factory y, Magnaflow single in/out cat back to; stock manifolds, removed two factory cats(04's came with 4 cats) true dual 2.5" pipe, Magnaflow dual in/out 18" muffler and it absolutely just gave my truck a whole new life.

Adding my OBX longtubes, replacing my cats with "resonators", gave me the same kick in the rear power.

Yes, have a local shop fab you up a setup. Buy your mufflers, resonators/cats online really cheap and take it up to your local muffler shop. Shop around and I would imagine you can find someone that with the pipe and install do it for $200 or less.

 

I will have to disagree with you on this. I've done lots of research in this camshaft area as it has been something I have wanted to do even since I got my truck(love that big cam sound). The FRPP hot rod cams are good cams, and springs and phaser upgrade is not required. If though you are in there, and about to drop $750+ and install anyway, why not just go with the better cams for a few hundred more?

Comp Cams Blower XFI™ SPR camshafts seem to be the ticket now in the 3v setups. The power gains are excellent and they sound great. They also don't lose any low end grunt, but have great gains in the mid/upper RPM range. On average, they are getting 20rwhp/tq more then the FRPP cams. They also have 3 specific cams for blower applications, where the FRPP hot rod cams are designed only for N/A use. Comp also has NSR and VSR if you don't want to go to wild. 4.6 mustangs with Comp SPR stage II cams and CNC'd heads are seeing 400rwhp+ naturally aspirated. FRPP hot rod cam's haven't even came close...


Note: The RPM listed in these is for 4.6 engines, with 5.4 engines subtract the power by 500-700 RPM.

NSR (No Springs Required)....

Stage I has solid gains from 4700-6200 rpm's. Compatible with stock springs. Best with stock gears.

Stage II has solid gains from 4900-6400 rpm's. Works with stock springs. Best with 3.73+ gears & 2500 stall.

VSR (Valve Springs Required)....

Stage I has power gains from 4400-6400 rpm's. Requires spring upgrade. Tuner required, Stock gears & converter OK.

Stage II has power gains mid to upper rpm range. Requires spring upgrade, Computer tuning required. Best with 4.10 gears and or 3000+ stall.

SPR (Springs and Phaser mods Required)....

Stage I has power gains from 4500-6700 rpm's. Requires spring & phaser upgrade. Custom tuning required, Stock gears & converter OK.

Stage II has power gains from 4900-6900 rpm's. Spring & phaser upgrade required. 3.90 gears & 3000+ stall.

Stage III has incredible power gains from 4900-7100 rpm's. Requires spring & phaser upgrade. Custom tuning required. 4.10+ gears & 3200+ stall.


I'll slowly gather parts for a motor build in this truck. I have a spare engine already, and I'll just start looking for deals on used parts, overstock, etc. I'm sure in two years or so Ill have a built shortblock ready to slap in. Maybe Ill get lucky and find some used ported heads to slap on.

 

id love to cam just havent seen any real good gains yet lol

 

I've seen those stage 2 SPR cams in mustangs gain 40rwhp+ at peak and up to 70+rwhp on other parts of the curve on blown applications on 4.6's...

 

Whats your opinion on these cams: http://www.lethalperformance.com/04-...shafts-p-15401 ?

I dont race, so not worried about max power, more worried about getting a set of cams that will run smooth and wont hurt my ability to tow. Also, I have the troyer valve body, how does that affect me getting these cams or a different set of cams?

 

Auto or manuals?

 

both, auto's slightly less but not much.