I finally got my oil, not sure why it would take longer for it to get to a dealer than my door, but whatever I got it. I like the theory behind moving the IAT sensor, but for the most accurate read wouldn't it be best to put it after the I/C right in front of the throttle body? I was thinking of moving it as well, just not sure where. I was thinking the same thing that the by-passed air was hot and would be throwing off the IAT sensor.

 

Mine is just in front of the throttle body. It is the most effective way I know to tell the PCM what the actual temperature of the incoming air is. Compressing the air heats it up and it gets cooled down passing through the intercooler. How much you never know unless you measure it. You may conceivably get a faster throttle response by setting the sensor somewhere else but with proper tuning you can get that back.

JMC

 

Ill take a pic of it.. What I did is just move it between the MAF and the metal piece where the bypass comes in, rather then between the bypass and the procharger. I did have to lengthen the IAT wires.

JMC your right about the temp, but I really don't want to spend the money on the programmer to change the location. All of the programmers I have seen that give you the ability to modify the program to that extent are really expensive? am I wrong? (the problem with me is I'd rather sink the money into my car then my daily driver)

I used to have the IAT on my car in the air filter but I moved it to under my intercooler so I can see what IATs are really going in. You just have to tune with it having less influence seeing higher intake temps then ambient... It will take a lot of timing out if the ECU isn't changed from stock spark settings vs IAT.

I do feel the torque limiting in 2nd gear though.. its kind of weird! Or maybe the trans slipping.. but it doesn't seem that way because for a split second it almost seems like the engine is being limited so the converter clutch or something can engauge 100%? I'll have to datalog it with our scanner and see whats up.
I'm wondering if my 1715 on the regular gas tune with the shifts stiffened up would make a difference or eliminate that? Any ideas? I have a superchips 1715 programmer but never really used it much and people say you can't use it with a blower?

 

I have custom tunes and a 4 bank chip. Besides my truck is a stick. I don't have the problem of shift firmness or shift rpm or any torque delays. They were all programmed out. If something is slipping its the clutch.

JMC

 

Thought i'd bring this thread back from the dead.
The truck is still running strong! Stock transmission still too! 175KM's on the truck now, 25K with the procharger on.

A few things i've changed so far were the idler pulley bearings to some different ones.

The absolute BIGGEST change that made me like the procharger (at 1st it wasn't really anything special unless you were full throttle) is I put a mikuni pilot jet inline with the bypass valve about 5" away. Now at just 3/8 throttle it will close the bypass and help when your not WFO. I have to say it made the truck a lot more peppy just driving around and hasn't hurt the mileage much. Also when you let out it will close the bypass quickly enough not to make it shutter and make the neat blow off valve type sound.
Doesn't cost much to do and then you don't have to blow a bunch of money on an aftermarket bypass.

I still want to make a better intake for the procharger.

I bought a cheap chinese wastegate which I will put on the intake side which will vent into the bypass valve hose. Then I can pulley up the blower and just run an 8lb spring. It will make nice boost down low sooner which is a complaint I had before the above mod with the pilot jet.
Also i'm in the process of getting the cat's cut out and start messing with the ECU for something to do..I've tuned a few F150s on the chassis dyno here and I said I would never do it to this truck but I don't want to buy a new one... So ill tinker with this one.

Oh the joys of screwing around with my daily driver. Now I still need a 3 core intercooler.... and possibly a MAF and some injectors. Just don't know if I want to screw around that much.

 

dart_440 - So, the WG will vent to the intake side of the Procharger using the same hose as the bypass? I've heard of doing it this way, but won't it reheat the same air as it is recycled? Also, the WG needs a boost reference and not a vac reference to work, where would it come from?

 

Yes the wastegate will reheat the excess air (everything over 8lbs..or whatever WG spring you run). Doing this just lets you run a bigger pulley so you get more boost sooner, without having 12Lbs or whatever larger pulley your running.
The excess air that is returned behind the maf and infront of the procharger will cause slightly higher IAT's at WOT but not by a whole lot. I'm looking at making my procharger better for towing and highway use. I already have a high HP street car so I don't need a wannabe race truck, it is a 4x4 after all... :P

You connect the wastegate signal line to a vacuum line behind the throttle body. So when you hit 8lbs boost it will push the wastegate open and overcome the spring to keep it at 8~lbs. Then when you close the throttle instant vacuum... If you wanted to put a boost controller on, hook it to the top of the WG then you could put a light spring in then just set your desired boost level.

Really it wont matter where you put the vacuum line from as long as its behind the procharger. If it was a blow off valve or a bypass it would need to be behind the throttle blades. By putting the signal line behind the procharger but in front of the TB it would actually help vent anything over 8lbs to take less stress off of the bypass.

What I am trying to accomplish is not having to unlock or kick down gears going up hills as much or in a strong wind. Just by adding the pilot jet inline of the bypass letting it close sooner has given the truck a lot more torque on light to mid throttle opening. Without the pilot jet mod going up the steep hill out of town my truck used to unlock and kickdown out of OD to 3rd and sit at 3-3200 going up the hill, sometimes locking up in 3rd. Without the procharger it used to sometimes kick down to 2nd gear and 4000+ when it was a little windy.
Now it unlocks and sits at 23-2400~ rpm now and keeps speed up the hill without labouring.
With a bigger pulley and the wastegate it will make it even better down low, then it might make it up the hill without even unlocking the converter.. Heres hoping! LOL.

If it wasn't for stupid 4.6L's I wouldn't need a S/C! Ford was dumb for putting it in an extended cab 4x4, 281 cubic inchs.. Why?!? If I had a choice/known better when I bought this truck from my brother I would have went with a 5.4L.

 

fuel mods (39# or 42# injectors) a 90mm MAF and a tune will increase your low end even more

my ATI bypass valve leaked and I replaced it with a turboXS piece and it flutters at low part throttle rpms and snaps shut at the slightest tip in of the throttle

 

dart_440 - I am using a Turbonetics waste gate , but venting it to atmosphere with a blow through maf. I found that the boost / vac signal had to be much larger with the WG to make it open properly.
Turbonetics suggests in the installation instruction that the WG be exercised frequently for proper operation.
I use a 1/2" hose which is connected just in front of the s/c discharge. The vac from any where using 1/8" hose works fine for the BP valve.
You won't just throw a WG and get your 8 psi, it requires adjusting, and more adjusting to work correctly.
I still don't think reheated air after the IAT is the best set up. As JMC suggested, the most accurate location is just in front of the throttle body.

 

I run 2 50MM WG's on my 114mm setup on my dart, I've played with many different wastegates and most springs if you buy a good WG like my HKS or the newgen seem to be pretty close. A 5 lb, 9 or 11lb spring are all extremely close. If you need to adjust up a little is ok but if it needs to go down then your WG is too small. That is on an exhaust application but I have a friend that runs an F2 procharger that does the same thing and hasn't had problems.

Never read on any wastegate instructions that it needs to be excercised to make it work properly ever?

I don't know why you are running 2 sense lines to your wastegate. The top should be put to atmosphere, and the one line in the middle to behind the TB.

Putting the IAT before the S/C bypass instead of after woke my truck up and made it run the same as it was natural without boost. If I ran it in that location my truck was gutless till it was on boost. Now when I put a tune into it I will move the IAT so it reads the proper temp for incoming air, but without a tune it takes too much timing out.

The blow thru maf is a lot nicer setup to run rather then a draw through like a stock setup.

 

I might consider that XS bypass, seems like it will just stop surge and allow the blower to pressure at slight tip in. Doing the pilot jet mod has seemed to do that for me.

 

Could you please elaborate on the pilot jet mod you did? Sounds like what I am looking for. What model/size pilot jet did you use and exactly where did you install it near the bypass valve? Did it really help a lot with part throttle boost/power coming on quicker? Pics would be great too if it's not too much trouble.

Thanks a ton!

- Chris

 

How I 1st found out about the mod was on my ZX12R street bike.. It was a mod to smooth out the overlap from the cams causing jerkiness on takeoff.

Anyways, the bypass valve doesn't actually close until it loses vacuum which is usually at least 5/8 to 3/4 throttle. The problem with that is when you lean on it a quarter throttle to take off from a light the blower isn't doing anything to benefit you.
What the pilot jet mod is doing is making the vacuum signal that the bypass is seeing less so it will close sooner. So when you tip into it lets just say 3/8 throttle there won't be enough immediate vacuum to hold it open then it allows the bypass to close and create a small amount of boost. This is extremely noticeable and makes it act much like a roots type blower to an extent. The nice thing about that is when you let off the throttle it will still snap the bypass open just like normal. When your cruising down the highway it stays shut until you hit a hill or load, at that point it will close the bypass which makes your truck kick down less.

Now for the parts needed - get 1 mikuni pilot jet size 12.5 at any bike shop and 1 hose connector for the same size hose going to your bypass. I think its 5/32 hose or something like that.

Pictures aren't really needed.....

Cut the hose about 5"-6"~ away from the bypass and shove the pilot jet in on the bypass side of the hose (sometimes lube is needed for tight places! LOL) then shove the hose connector in and connect the hose to the other side. Your DONE!

Now go drive the truck, drive around normally (normal is different for some people). It should run just like it always had. Now lean into it a little or roll into the throttle rolling and you will notice boost a lot sooner. The engine will come off vacuum sooner when under load now! Its great!
As long as you drive civilized you shouldn't notice an economy decrease. I know I haven't because the times I needed to lean into it I had to a bunch because the damn truck wouldn't do anything until over 1/2 throttle. Or it will kick down and rev which makes the economy go for crap. Running a lower rpm with boost is better than revving without, my economy and scangauge II seems to think so..

This mod doesn't close the bypass instantly, it will still drive normal but when you lean into in a spirited manner or put a load on the truck it will close the bypass sooner making it much more pleasurable to drive!!

Let me know how it goes, you can always reverse the mod. Chances are you wont. Oh and that will be $10 please.. cash only! LOL!

Another thing, just got my cat's removed... and what a coincidence! I just got the best mileage I have EVER had in the winter! This tank is very close to what I average for mileage during the summer months. Wonder how it will be when it warms up again! Now goto think, the less gas I just used is most likely better for environment considering the refining process involved to make gas then using more and running cats. Just my 2 Cents...

 

Wow, thank you very much! I can't wait to try this out.

To make sure I understand this correctly: I cut the bypass hose so that 5-6" is coming off of it. I install the pilot jet into the end of the hose I just cut with the top of the jet (non-threaded portion) facing the bypass valve. I then take the hose connector and install the barbed end into the other side of the cut hose (going to the motor). I then thread the female threads of the hose connector onto the male threads of the pilot jet?
Is that correct or am I missing something in attaching the hose connector to the pilot jet?

Where were you with this mod 3 years ago?! LOL (I know you just got the blower installed).

I have the same problem with my engine constantly ******* out. I have taller tires (31.5") and a 3.55 rear end. So many times I feel my truck is in between gears but never in the right one. In overdrive going up small hills I constantly have to really put my foot into it to gain a small increase in speed. I see like 5-0" Hg of vacuum on my boost gauge when I do this, and you're right, it kills the fuel economy. I have trouble keeping up with traffic on the highway when this happens, it's really sad for a blown V8. Most of the time I just keep overdrive off and would rather turn a few hundred more RPM's than step into it like a mother in overdrive. Of course that translates into a lot of up/downshifting as I loose or get up to speed.

edit..

Is this the correct style Mikuni pilot jet? It's a VM22/210 type

 

how many of you have leaky ATI butterfly valves??