centrifugal vs. roots
#2
I don't think there's any cons with either style. Both will get you more hp and tq. The roots will produce more boost and torque at low rpms, great for tire roasting take offs, but if you're not carefull that can be hard on stock internals. The cents build the boost throughout the rpm range and don't reach max boost until you hit the rev limiter, but they pull hard all the way. I don't know what kind of truck you have or what engine but I do think that a blower is a great way to go. Good luck with your decision.
#3
Surefire way to cause issues. Do a search, it has been debated to death, brough back debated, kicked, stabbed, lit on fire, brought back debated... ...well you get the idea.
I went centrifigal for the lower strain on the bottom end and the top-end rush which is cool. Mine pulls hard from the first stab of the throttle and I can spin the tires quite easily from a stand still, but I agree a fatter low-end just off idle would be nice. I think that a turbo is the ticket but that is off topic and does not answer the original question. It is a personal thing, research both and decide which is right for you. I can tell you one thing, either way, boost is an addiction no matter the source. And that my friend is worth a line of dancing nanners.
I went centrifigal for the lower strain on the bottom end and the top-end rush which is cool. Mine pulls hard from the first stab of the throttle and I can spin the tires quite easily from a stand still, but I agree a fatter low-end just off idle would be nice. I think that a turbo is the ticket but that is off topic and does not answer the original question. It is a personal thing, research both and decide which is right for you. I can tell you one thing, either way, boost is an addiction no matter the source. And that my friend is worth a line of dancing nanners.
#4
#6
I wouldn't say that a roots or twin screw is more harmful than a centri to your stock internals. Both put equal amounts of stress on your stock internals just at different RPMs. The centri will start gaining boost around 2500 rpms and will continue to gain all the way up to the redline. A roots will start gaining boost at very low rpms but will start to drop off well before redline.
If the roots is more dangerous why would Ford use the roots or twin screw style over the centri on the lightning, mustang, and the old HD F150's. The main reason is that the roots is much more dependable and has fewer parts to wear out. With a centri, the bearings and seals will go bad eventually. You don't have this issue with the roots.
I'm not knocking the centri, cuz I have a novi 2000 on my mustang. Your choice should come down to what you plan on doing with the truck. If its just for street use, or off roading I would go with the roots for the low grunt as soon as you step on the gas. If you are going to take it to the track I would go with the centri. The centri will allow you to have traction on the launch but once you hit 3000rpms hold on. With a roots traction is very poor on take off.
With all of that being said as long as the tune is correct you can plan on your vehicle safely reaching 150k on the odometer with no problems.
The key is the tune.
Most of this comes from my experience in the mustang world. But a lot of it still applies to the truck world too. I wouldn't go with more than 8-10 psi with a good tune.
If the roots is more dangerous why would Ford use the roots or twin screw style over the centri on the lightning, mustang, and the old HD F150's. The main reason is that the roots is much more dependable and has fewer parts to wear out. With a centri, the bearings and seals will go bad eventually. You don't have this issue with the roots.
I'm not knocking the centri, cuz I have a novi 2000 on my mustang. Your choice should come down to what you plan on doing with the truck. If its just for street use, or off roading I would go with the roots for the low grunt as soon as you step on the gas. If you are going to take it to the track I would go with the centri. The centri will allow you to have traction on the launch but once you hit 3000rpms hold on. With a roots traction is very poor on take off.
With all of that being said as long as the tune is correct you can plan on your vehicle safely reaching 150k on the odometer with no problems.
The key is the tune.
Most of this comes from my experience in the mustang world. But a lot of it still applies to the truck world too. I wouldn't go with more than 8-10 psi with a good tune.
#7
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#9
Originally Posted by nixRsix
I was really wanting to go w/ 12psi, but i dont wanna overdo it.....maybe i'll just go 10psi....
#10
#11
High boost at low RPM is tougher than high boost at high RPM. High cylidner presures have more time to act on the internals.
Try running a Kenne-Bell at 14 psi on a stock motor. It won't last too long. But there are guys who run 14psi (max) on stock internals. All because it only sees high boost at elevated RPM.
Not the greatest illustration in the world, but if you're familiar with marine engines...Roots/twin-screw MFRs recommend an HO engine (forged crank, 4-bolt mains, etc) to run their blowers. Procharger, at 4-5 psi, has applications for non-HO engines with cast cranks. Low boost, to be sure, but boost that ramps-up with RPM.
Try running a Kenne-Bell at 14 psi on a stock motor. It won't last too long. But there are guys who run 14psi (max) on stock internals. All because it only sees high boost at elevated RPM.
Not the greatest illustration in the world, but if you're familiar with marine engines...Roots/twin-screw MFRs recommend an HO engine (forged crank, 4-bolt mains, etc) to run their blowers. Procharger, at 4-5 psi, has applications for non-HO engines with cast cranks. Low boost, to be sure, but boost that ramps-up with RPM.