Could I change out my 6 psi for a 9 lb pulley and still "safely" run the truck.

I am looking to go to 9 psi and install a water/meth injection kit, but I am trying to avoid a 500.00 custom tune (tuner included).

I can adjust the timing, MAF curve and WOT fuel with the Diablo that came with my kit. But, I am not sure there is enough +/- adjustment to do it.

Any ideas on those who have upgraded on Powerdynes?

 

Therre was a guy on here running a Procharger.. "bata" or somthing like that.. Forgot what PSI he was running, but was getting lean in the high RPM because the stock fuel pump wasnt pumping enough... I'll check into it and repost

 

I couldnt find anything about his A/F.

FRom an outsiders POV, I'd say youd be ok. You'll need to tune it some with the diablo. Pull 1-2 runs on a dyno and check your A/F's

 

Cool. But, on the fuel pump I might be okay cause I will be running the water/meth injection and I will be pulling alot of the fuel delivery out.

So, I might still be okay. I guess our 5.4L 3V's are 220lph factory.

 

This is the first Powerdyne 5.4 3v post I can remember, so bare with..... don't know what comes with the kit.
If you change to a larger pulley you void your warranty, food for thought.
The injectors, mass air meter, and spark plugs may be inadequate for more boost, even with a cooled charge. I have been told that an FMU is just trickery and to never use one. LOL

 

I know that in the vortech kit, if you go from the 6-8 psi pulley to the 8-10 psi pulley they put a differant ratio FMU in the kit.

 

If you have it to spend, I can rec some definates. I have the bd11a like 1lowlf and chucks BP. I have talked to chuck many many times and he his very knowledgeable and always willing to help, mostly in email.

Mine is a 98 5.4 2V non pi. I run the bd11a with a 2,75 pulley, 42# injectors and 90mm lightning MAF. Ported the TB and intake tunner. Runs through true dual 3 inch exhaust, unequalized due to space restraints. I have yet to get a true dyno reading. Chuck and I discussed the one dyno run I did get to work, both we both feel there are large errors. (it was like 62 degrees with 100 percent hummidity and I had massive belt slip)

I have seen my boost gauge once hit 11psi at 5650 rpm. Mind you it'll never see that in operation, that was a neutral run up test I did. You can also upgrade to the gear driven unit for about a grand and safely go past 11 psi, but youll need a forged lower end. GL

 

I'm running almost 14 psi on my ProCharged 5.4 and still have yet to get a tune for the meth/water kit.... These engines can take the power, just need to tune accordingly.

 

I'm not sure i understand. You "have yet" to get a tune for the meth/water kit...but the engines can take the power if I tune accordingly?

Are you saying that you have installed the meth/water kit and not tuned for it? Or you have tuned?

According to snow performance I will easily be able to use the Diablo to tune myself for the 9 psi upgrade and the meth/water injection. I hope that is so.

 

Is that right? You are going to pull fuel out? Is that because of the fuel content of the methanol? Im not sure i would pull any fuel out if you are bumping up to a smaller blower pulley, Methanol or not. Just the opposite, imo.
Remember, you guys are the pioneers/guinea pigs with these blowers/crappy spark plug combos.

 

You have to pull fuel out because the methanol is an octane in itself and burns like fuel. Even with the higher boost I will back it off.

This is because Powerdyne has the truck tuned with the IAT senosr before the blower. Well, by doing this they upgraded me to 39lb/hr injectors on only 6 psi without an intercooler. They had to because they are dumping loads of fuel into the engine and cutting timing by ALOT !!! This is the only way for the air/fuel ratios to be remotely close to running correctly.

If anything I might get a bigger pump if need be but I doubt that is the case. I will be pushing less fuel than I am now considering the meth/injection will compensate for much of the lost fuel delivery from the tank.

 

So..... By running the IAT BEFORE the blower, the temp reading will be lower than what the actual temp is (post blower). Therefore, the PCM will be running normal timing curves, even though the actual IATs would require retarding the timing. The Methanol injection is to cool the temps down to offset the temp differences. That takes care of the timing. The fuel is backed out due to the energy content of the methanol, which will offset the increase in mass air. Is this right?

If it is, you are building a house of cards, waiting for a problem. If not, let me know what im missing. It sounds pretty trick and that you have done your homework, i think i am just missing something.

 

I can't speek for the newer trucks but on my 2001 I first installed water/ meth kit, It did make a power differance but mainly because the IAT was after the supercharger and it cooled the charge temp and fulled the computer and added timing. After proper tuning and even before my aftercooler install it now makes little to no change, it will make less than a 1/10 differance in the 1/4 mile times. As far as air/fuel ratio it will lean an over rich condition alc. has a high octane rating but very low BTU output, remember it take roughly 5 times the amount of alc to do the same amount of work as gas. The lambda value (pounds of air/pounds of fuel) for gas is 14.7 and meth. is 6.4 Proper air fuel ratio is very differant with alc and gas. Without proper data loging and air/fuel ratios you are playing with a potential granade without a safty pin. Be very carefull!!

 

Yes, the IAT will add timing on it's own if it is after the blower.

However, if you tune on your own it is different. My truck is reading 94 degrees inlet temps before the blower (I data logged this from my tuner). It is most likely (most certainly) blowing atleast 60-65 degrees hotter than that after the blower...maybe more. So, what Powerdyne and many others have done is retard the timing by an **** load (10-15 degrees) in order to compensate for the hot air going in while the IAT still reads 94 degrees. If it was after the blower, it would retard the timing itself if it registered 165-180 degree inlet temps. So, in proven theory (based on application) you can run the meth/water kit with the IAT sensor still before the blower because you will in fact reduce the actual "after blower" temps to roughly 90-110 degrees IAT depending on the weather. If this is so, then the IAT sensor placement is irrelevant in terms of timing because you can bring the engine back up to factory or full timing because your temps are the same before or after the blower.

The danger would come in by increasing your timing without a meth/water kit and the IAT sensor before the blower. Your engine would register 94 degrees, you would have full timing and nothing to cool the air, thus the timing wouldnt be corrected by the IAT. That is asking for a blown engine. It is obviously recommended that you purchase an air temp sensor to place after the blower to get actual readings...that will only help with tuning of course. You can tune your self with accurate gauges installed i.e, Air/Fuel, water temp, air temp, boost and fuel pressure. Adjusting in small increments until you get it dialed in is the key.

The real danger with tuning the meth/water kit with the IAT before the blower is if you run out of the juice and go WOT...yeah, you're screwed.

Does that make sense?

 

Thats what i was thinking too. I saw where some tuners on the corral wouldnt even tune a car if the iat was before the blower. Good luck... I know you have done your homework so i know you'll be alright.