lightning swap help
#47
nope..i can feel the engine really want to turn but still nothing. so i took everything apart and double check my sparks, wirings ...ect..
i already had the correct flasher shipped to me and custom tune for #42 ib and 90mm MAF installed. so there's nothing really i can do execpt double check everything again.
thanks for following up
i already had the correct flasher shipped to me and custom tune for #42 ib and 90mm MAF installed. so there's nothing really i can do execpt double check everything again.
thanks for following up
#49
#50
Jon,
Mine stumbled on the first crank as it cleared out some fuel or something, but then cleared out and ran good.
What color exhaust are you seeing when you crank it for a while and allow it to stumble along?
Which cylinder plug did you see coolant in?
If you have an Excalibrator, I can send you my program if you want to try it.
This might be far fetched, but can you record a sound clip of the engine stumbling and share it with us? I bet somebody will know what's going on with that little bit of a hint.
-adam
Mine stumbled on the first crank as it cleared out some fuel or something, but then cleared out and ran good.
What color exhaust are you seeing when you crank it for a while and allow it to stumble along?
Which cylinder plug did you see coolant in?
If you have an Excalibrator, I can send you my program if you want to try it.
This might be far fetched, but can you record a sound clip of the engine stumbling and share it with us? I bet somebody will know what's going on with that little bit of a hint.
-adam
#51
I dont know if this is your problem,but when i first got my sct base tune from modular depot,it was as if it still was setup for the stock 19#injectors.It would barely fire and when it did black smoke came out the exhaust.I called up and spoke w/ ken and told him my problem,...and he sed that there are two ways to get 42#ers and a 90mmm maf to work on a stock 150(my eec code is uat2).The next file he sent me started up fine and cleared the excess gas out(black smoke).
Your situation rings a bell cuz this 1 time a while back at razorsedge paul offered to tune it,and his 1st 3 tries it wouldnt crank, and it was also spitting black smoke.Im sure he would have got it,but I was pressed 4 time and had to go.He was a diablo dealer.
fwiw.
frank
Your situation rings a bell cuz this 1 time a while back at razorsedge paul offered to tune it,and his 1st 3 tries it wouldnt crank, and it was also spitting black smoke.Im sure he would have got it,but I was pressed 4 time and had to go.He was a diablo dealer.
fwiw.
frank
#52
i am using diablo preditor flasher, and as far as exhaust smoke goes..did not even get that far. the truck did not start, it seems like it's about to but no. the coolant in my spark plug chamber caused by me when i spill it in accently removing the original manifold and it was at the passenger rear, i did however plug the heater hose into the water outlet without rearrange it to "lightning" spec.. don't know if that is the reason. i can try out your tune if you don't mind. you can sent it to my email jonjon62288@hotmail.com and i'll see if that will work if so, i'll contact my tuner on monday to re make a custom tune.
thank you all
thank you all
#53
#56
If you both have the same programmer, you should be able to swap programs.
It won't do any harm at this point since you are trying non-functional programs from your tuner anyway.
Jon,
I think you should try Ganiman's program.
Are you 100% sure you are getting spark?
Have you pulled a coil and attached a sparkplug to it out of the cylinder and verified you are getting spark?
-a
It won't do any harm at this point since you are trying non-functional programs from your tuner anyway.
Jon,
I think you should try Ganiman's program.
Are you 100% sure you are getting spark?
Have you pulled a coil and attached a sparkplug to it out of the cylinder and verified you are getting spark?
-a
#57
There can be only two reasons for your truck not wanting to at least fire and die. It has to be either lack of fuel or spark.
Presence of fuel is easy, connect a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader Valve and turn on the key, it should show at least 30 psi for a second until the pump automatically shuts down.
To check the spark, use Adams method (be sure to ground the body of the plug or do it the old fashioned way. Pull a coil pack, lay it on the engine still plugged into the harness, put a phillips screwdriver into the plug boot, have the screwdriver shank within 1/16" of a ground source (not a valve cover, they're plastic), crank the engine and look or listen for the spark (turn out the lights, it's easier to see). You could always just hold on to the screwdriver shank and if you jump, you have spark.
One of the two has to be missing or this thing would fire up and run for a moment at least. If the tune is wrong, it might die right away.
If you have both, there is just one other possibility, the plugs could be wet with fuel. Pull a couple and check. If they're wet, try a new or at least a dry set.
Presence of fuel is easy, connect a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader Valve and turn on the key, it should show at least 30 psi for a second until the pump automatically shuts down.
To check the spark, use Adams method (be sure to ground the body of the plug or do it the old fashioned way. Pull a coil pack, lay it on the engine still plugged into the harness, put a phillips screwdriver into the plug boot, have the screwdriver shank within 1/16" of a ground source (not a valve cover, they're plastic), crank the engine and look or listen for the spark (turn out the lights, it's easier to see). You could always just hold on to the screwdriver shank and if you jump, you have spark.
One of the two has to be missing or this thing would fire up and run for a moment at least. If the tune is wrong, it might die right away.
If you have both, there is just one other possibility, the plugs could be wet with fuel. Pull a couple and check. If they're wet, try a new or at least a dry set.
#59
I'm with Mike check fuel pressure!! Then spark! Even with a bad tune you should get a bad running attempt... These trucks will run with only a few plugs firing so even if you did spill coolant i don't think this is the problem.. Even if all you do is push the schrader valve done, verify you have fuel pressure....
#60
Originally Posted by brahmus
Even if all you do is push the schrader valve done, verify you have fuel pressure....
If not, you may not be getting any or enough fuel. Did you check the fuel pump fuse in the black fuse box under the hood? It is Fuse NO. 10 (requires a 20 amp two blade fuse (small version). I blew 4 in a row 2 weeks ago because a relay connection was touching metal under the fuse box. A little tape and no more problems.
With the key turned on, and standing next to the bed, do you hear your fuel pump making a humming sound in the gas tank?
Did you change the fuel filter and is it hooked up in the right direction of flow? The arrow on filter should be pointing toward front of truck.
Did you check to see if the inertia switch has "popped up"? It is located behind the passenger side kick panel below the glovebox. If it has popped up, push it down to reactivate your fuel pump.
Have you tried starting it by not pumping the gas pedal at all? How bout pumping the gas pedal several times while turning the key? How about pushing the gas pedal all the way to the floor and then turning the key?
Is there gas in the tank???????????
If you checked all that, then its got to be a NO SPARK or other electrical issue. I would stake the Jersey Devils, brahmus and Adam's reputation on it.
Last edited by iron horse; 06-12-2005 at 12:55 PM.