Lookin for someone who's running a stock Powerdyne, especially on a 4.6L. I am considering going this route and have some questions. I'd also like to know if you're running / considering water injection. Thanks!!!

 

Jackal,
I know you read some of my post here:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=159963

but if you go back to the beginning of the post you will find some information from others who are running the stock Powerdyne.

To answer the question you had in the other forum the Powerdyne kit is complete and with stock boost has a two year warrantee. You should be able to run it with your set-up but will have to back down on the tuner to a 87 octane tune. You may be able to use the 89 octane tune if you actually use 93 octane gas. The blower requires higher octane to prevent pre-ignition.

You should not need water injection as long as you use the 87-89 octane tune. ChucksBP is running water injection with his Powerdyne but I think he is making 10lbs boost or close to it.

You can get a custom tune but Mike Troyer will only do a custom tune if you upgrade injectors and MAF.

The kit is complete and is a bargain, as far as superchargers go.
Also don't be a fool like me, change the spark plugs and regap as soon as you get the blower installed.

There are many who just don’t like the Powerdyne. I like many aspects of the blower including ease of install and the way it sounds (can’t stand the way strait cut blowers sound). My only other consideration would be a Vortech with helical gears.

Keep it stock and two years is a long time. If you change from stock then get some information on how to change out the bearings and you still won’t have a problem.

Good luck what ever you decide.

 

Thanks man...I just had some more questions regarding the stock kit specifically. It seems as though most guys are running high boost and lots of fuel mods.

I wanted to know if the stock kit comes with a 5 psi pully AND a 6 psi, or is it just a single pully that makes between 5 and 6 psi so people post it as such.

I also wanted to get a definite answer on the fuel issues. Are my stock injectors and FP within spec for the 6 psi Powerdyne, or does the kit include a booster, or do I need to get an aftermarket FP?

One concern I had was longevity of the engine, and a member mentioned the fact that the PD has no IC. Therefore I figured I could run an inexpensive water injection system for 1. more power without loss of boost, and 2. cooler intake temps for improved engine conditions. If that is, cooler intake temps are needed with such mild boost. It also seems as though I will not need a by-pass valve, but where does all that pressure go without a valve?

The way I understand it now is all I have to do is replace the stock plugs, gap them to .35, de-tune the ECU, and install the stock kit. Good for approx. 60 RWHP. (While losing 26+ HP by de-tuning???) How do I know my A/F ratios are safe after the install or does the stock ECU keep it in spec even with the blower?

I lifted this from your other thread:

3.12 - 5 lbs
2.93 - 6+
2.70 - 7.5
2.50 - 9

Is the 3.12 pully stock or is the 2.93 pully included as well? If I decide to go with the 2.7 pully, does that warrant the need for injectors, MAF, and FP?

I'm sorry, I know I have a lot of questions and always seem to ramble on, but I think the Powerdyne is the only kit I feel comfortable installing myself, and the only one I think I can afford. It seems that for the small amout of power I'm looking for, and the addition of a good warranty and possibly water injection, this would be a pretty good kit. Thanks for taking the time WLF...it's appreciated!!!

I have come up with two possible ways to fund the blower. 1. Go to 10 hour days for June / July and get some OT, or 2. Wait 6 more months till she's paid off and put a few months worth of payments into it.

 

I suggest a 255 lph fuel pump if you plan on going over 6 psi. I think you should be ok with the stock injectors, stock MAF and 255 lph fuel pump with a FMU up to around 10-12 psi on the stock tune. I don't know if you have a performance chip or not, but if you do be careful. You will be safe as long as you stick to the factory tune though.

Water/meth injection is never a bad thing, even at low boost. It will let you add some timing if you ever get a custom tune done, and will allow for more boost safely, and keeps detonation less likely.

Your powerdyne kit should come with a FMU, and I am guessing it will be a 12:1 unit. With this FMU, you probably will be a little rich at 6 psi. I suggest you find a place that can monitor A/F with a wideband and get it checked as soon as possible after you get it installed. I would also spend a little extra and pick up an adjustable FMU that will let you dial in the A/F when you get it checked.

WLF is right on about the plugs too, be sure and do that first thing.


Marlon

 

The powerdyne runs well stock, the truck with the fmu is ok the only way you know posativly about air/fuel ratio is either on a dyno with a wide band or buy a wide band for yourself after a couple dyno sessions the latter will be a trade and you still have the tool.
The stock unit makes between 5 and 6 lb of boost and nocked about 2 seconds off 1/4 mile time and adds safely 60hp. as far as hurting the engine you actually don't run the engine any faster and it makes more hp at a lower rpm so the engine should last as long as normal. my truck has 60,000 mile plus and uses no oil and runs perfict.
A fuel pump upgrade I would recomend just to be safe but that again is no big deal. The water/alchahol injection helped in stock powerdyne trim but after my Troyer tune doe not have as much effect I think that it is more of a bandaid fix, I am shure you will get a lot of differant opinions on that, but I would go with a custom tune before the water injection, nex to the supercharger install it is the next best h/p adder. the main thing being the torque reduction management.
I am happy with the powerdyne the only thing is boost is addictive once you get a little you want more, you can't believe the differance in youre truck.
If you like feel free to email me direct and we can chat WLF and I discuss things daily, and I will gladly share any and all info I have gathered, I don't claim to know everything but I have learned from some mistakes, I have spent money needlessly on things that actualy hurt performance. I will help in any way I can And am shure WLF will also he's great guy and likes his powerdyne also.
I have rebuilt a powerdyne and the nice thing about them is they are so easy to work on, and you can honastly install one in 4 hours as they state.

 

Guys, thanks again for your time and willingness to help the newb.

About the fuel pump. I read a post on here from another member who said you can get a 190 lph unit for less than half the cost of the 255, and in his opinion that was more than enough for most of us around here. What are your thoughts on that? What does the stocker flow? I'm sure boost is addicting as all hell, but I honestly believe I will stay at a modest 6 - 8 psi thus eliminating the need for too much initial headroom.

How much am I looking at on the FP, and how much for an adjustable FMU. Would it be more cost effective to simply get new "disks???" for the PD suppplied FMU?

Maybe I'm thinking incorrectly, but if I de-tune my truck and install the PowerDyne kit, I will only see about a 35 HP increase due to the loss of the "Max Performance" tune right? ...and I'm out of luck on tuning unless I either go with an actual 89 octane chip or upgrade the MAF and injectors and get a custom tune? This is a serious deciding factor on getting blown because of the small gains to be achieved unless I "go all out".

Are you guys saying that I really won't have much use for water injection at 6 - 8 psi? How much did it "help" the stock kit? Any idea what the intake temps are at these levels compared to NA intake temps with an open-element K&N?

Lastly, how much is an "8 psi." pully going to cost me? Is it just as simple as swapping the pully and replacing the GatorBack? Any idea what kind of gains to expect @ 8 psi on the stock kit with upgraded FP?

 

Yes the 190 fuel pump will be enough, the pulley is about $70.00 dollars and yes it does just bolt on it does void youre powerdyne warrenty oh well, and you will need a shorter belt. as far as fmu's i woulden't waste a lot of money in that area, I would stay with the stock setup for a while and when I was ready I would go to larger injectors, and a tune, and ditch the fmu. You can't possably believe the differance in drivability with the tune and larger injectors. the truck is a differant animal even with out boost with the larger injectors and tune. I had a bearing failure last fall and drove the truck without the belt on the supercharger for 3 or 4 days while waiting for beraings and the truck drove ver nice, totaly differant than when stock you have to try it to believe it.

 

I agree with everything ChucksBP posted. He has been a great help in my project and our set-ups are very similar.

I have the 190 LPH in tank Fuel Pump and Troyer says its good to about 500 HP. It also fits in the stock housing without modifications. It is much quieter then the boost-a -pumps but you have to drop the tank (or raise the bed).

I recommend you run the stock pulley for a while. My blower failed in the first 200 miles and the bearings were replaced under warrantee. This gives you time to sort out Factory flaws.
I have not had a problem since and it will be a year in June.

I don't think you have to worry too much about de-tuning. Most of the seat of the pants drivability improvement you get from the custom tune is in the transmission changes and that can be kept the same. What you have is a tuner (not a custom tune) so going from a 93 octane to a 89 octane tune will probably not loose more then 15hp if that. On the other hand centrifical boost really wakes up these 4.6L trucks right where they need it. Stock they suck in the upper RPM range and now mine is just getting started above 3000 RPM.

Right now I can't believe how strong my truck is running on this "supposedly" POOR supercharger. What a blast. Of course I also have the custom tune and upgraded injectors and MAF and now intercooler. The neat thing is you can get boost and upgrade when you want/can afford to. If you buy a Procharger, the MAF, Injectors and Custom tune are still an upgrade.

I ran it since last summer without an intercooler but I have to say the intercooler makes one hell of a difference. Keep in mind I have been making 9-10lbs of boost, thats a lot of heat.

BTW, I have 182,000+ miles on my 4.6 and it runs great (thanks Mobil 1).
I have a spare longblock in the garage just in case.

 

Where do I acquire the 190 lph FP and how hard is it to install at home?

I would run the 6 psi pully for the first 3 - 4 months of course, but how would PD know that a smaller pully had been installed?

My truck without the Max Performance tune is a slug. I don't see the benefits of the tranny improvements because I have the 5-speed. I guess in order to be happy with shelling out that much bank and spending the time on install, I'd have to run at 8 psi. Any guestimates on HP numbers / intake charge temps? I didn't think there was an IC option for the PD and any benefits from that are cancelled out by boost loss.

After I have the PD kit installed can I not get a Superchips SCT tuner or is that what you mean by custom tune? Out of curiousity, how much more are injectors and MAF?

 

...this is giving me a noggin ache. Now I know what you were going thorugh Iron Horse...lol. Maybe I should say screw it and wait till I can afford a used Procharger. From what I've gathered, it's about $2,700 for a used kit, plus another grand for install if I choose not to do it myself.

 

I’ll answer your questions in series.

-These blowers run even better with the manual transmission because you can decide the rpm range.

-The blower sounds like a turbo with that subtle high pitch wine, it really sounds good to me.

-Powerdyne puts a gob of colored plastic on the pulley nut. If you remove the nut, you remove the seal and they can tell it’s been tampered with.

To be honest, Powerdyne puts completely rebuilt BD11a’s on ebay often for about $650 (head unit only). For the price of the kit, you can buy two replacement blowers and still be less then the closest competitor. I plan to get a bearing and belt kit soon. The only way this will not get me back up and running in 3 hours is if there is impeller damage when the bearings go up. Impeller damage is less likely if you remove the belt with any sign of bearing noise.
The only down side I can see with this blower is if you want to make more then 10 lbs boost. With the sealed bearings now available, it will not hold up to that kind of impeller speed.
I am constantly looking for better bearings but to date, Powerdyne seems to have the best. Blowers that use oil soaked bearings do seem to have less bearing failures, but it does happen often enough. They also void the warrentee if you run other then stock pulleys.

 

I'm not worried so much about the PD grenading at 8 psi. as I am about the intake temps, and I don't think the gains at 6 psi. are worth it to me to get $2,500 into it since I have to first lose about 25 HP to get there.

That leaves me five options.

1. Run @ 6 psi. and upgrade FP, injectors, MAF and SCT tuning. (expensive & time consuming)

2. Run @ 8 psi. with no PD warranty and high intake temps. (bad for engine longevity)

3. Run @ 8 psi, no warranty and run water injection (constantly refilling meth)

4. Run @ 8 psi., no warranty and fabricate an IC (loss of boost and more money)

5. Find a cheap (used?) kit with warranty I can run @ 8 psi. that includes an IC.

Keep in mind I'm still learning about all things forced induction so I could be way off in my thinking, and I don't want to sacrifice reliability or longevity. I'm leaning toward option #2, #4, and #5. Someone has to be in the same boat as I am.

 

With 8# boost my f150 without an intercooler 75 degree outside temp on a 2nd gear pull from stop to 5800rpm at rev limiter air charge temp will climb to 178 degrees that was on the 3rd pullwith in app 15 minutes cruising at 3500 to 4000 rpm range making some rapid acclerations runing between 80mph and 107 mph the temp varies between 135 and 147degrees these are all actual datalogg results taken for tun purposes using an autotap datta loger. I have all hard data on all my changes good and bad every thing is on paper including 1/4 mile runs and engine datta. Normal driving you will see temps in the 100 to 110 degree range. The powerdyne has very low boost temps compared to other superchargers due mainly to no external heat sourses as hot oil etc. 8# needs no cooling even though you could have an improvement with a cooler I installed one because I am never happy I have to change things and I intend on upping the boost again, But don't ask why because the truck runs great, You realy notice the differance at highway speed whenacclerating 60mph plus. I installed a harley cluster with a 130 mph spedo and I can peg it any time We have a lpng grade here in western PA and it just levels them out. I can't imagine the permanant smile some of these 10 second lightning guys must have when they drive.

 

Awesome, thanks for providing actual data!!! Now all I need to know is RWHP @ 8 psi without cooler, 4.6 or 5.4, and auto or manual. I just might be in the game afterall.

I was talking to a neighbor earlier this evening and he said he knows of a place somewhere close that installs Powerdynes for free if you buy it from them, and let them dyno the before and after results. I'll have to check into them before agreeing to let them do it, but it sounds like a good deal depending on price I guess.

Would you happen to know when approx. the stock FP starts to go lean at 6 and 8 psi?

...getting excited. Now I'm considering selling my old street bike to help get it here a little faster.

 

Hi I have a Ford Motorsports(Powerdyne), that I am running stock out of the box. It is great, but I know there is more power lurking with a tune, injectors, MAF, fuel pump, exhaust, 8# pulley, etc. I have collected some of this off ebay, but right now I am a little tapped with finishing my basement( time and money).

Some mods you can do to a truck - I think I have more power - superchargers you KNOW you have more power!!!

Powerdyne is a great place to start if you don't want to wait to save up for a better one, and you can always upgrade later(many upgrades you would do to any supercharger anyway).

Check with Ford Motorsports dealers Part # M-6066-T462 (Summit has them). I can't find a difference between the ones from Ford and Powerdyne and the price seems better from Ford(as hard as that is to imagine).

Don't hesitate - buy one! You'll love it.