Finally eliminated belt slip on my Powerdyne
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: NEVADA
WLF posted that Powerdyne told him that the actual pulley bearings were good to 8 tons or something silly like that,so too much tension should not be a problem. You should be able to pluck a musical note on the long side of the belt. LOL
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Joined: May 2000
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These input bearings are better then the ones used in alternators and just check your serpentine belt with the tensioner on it to see how tight it is.
I found the tensioner was still loosening up while in use even with the bolts tightened as tight as I dare make them. I went to Lowes and got two large galvanized ½ inch washers and replaced the two washers on the tensioner. They have more contact area and are rougher so they hold much better. I will tighten just enough to hold, use a flat bar and a hammer to tap the tensioner until you can pluck a tone on the belt.
You can see the washers well in this picture:
Chucksbp told me about using a tone "like a guitar string" as a tool to see if the belt is tight enough. Works well and we have both been doing it for about 1 ½ years without any bearing failures.
Have fun...
I found the tensioner was still loosening up while in use even with the bolts tightened as tight as I dare make them. I went to Lowes and got two large galvanized ½ inch washers and replaced the two washers on the tensioner. They have more contact area and are rougher so they hold much better. I will tighten just enough to hold, use a flat bar and a hammer to tap the tensioner until you can pluck a tone on the belt.
You can see the washers well in this picture:
Chucksbp told me about using a tone "like a guitar string" as a tool to see if the belt is tight enough. Works well and we have both been doing it for about 1 ½ years without any bearing failures.
Have fun...
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I am finally going to work on the spring loaded tensioner this weekend. I ordered an 8 rib pulley with ears from Reichard Racing today to make fabrication a little easier. I did a Powerdyne rebuild this past weekend and will post my nightmare for you guys soon. Just so you know the nightmare had nothing to do with the rebuild itself, the machine shop I used cracked the case trying to extract the large blind bearing. Chuck (Chucksbp) gave me some advice on how to fix and how to get the bearing out which worked very well. I will include that information with a few pictures in my post.
The rebuild is otherwise a cinch.
The rebuild is otherwise a cinch.
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The first change was in the adjuster holding bracket. It was twisting when under tension and that caused a lot of stress on the adjusting bolt. I doubled the thickness of the new one.
Next was the adjusting bolt. It was made of SS and the threads would seize easily. I went through two of them.
I used a 3/8 bolt to bolt connector sleeve about 1 1/2 inch long. I cut the adjusting bolt short and threaded it the thickness of a bolt into one side of the sleeve and used a locking nut to hold. I then got a grade 8 bolt and used it as an adjuster by sliding it through the adjuster holder and into the other end of the bolt to bolt connector sleeve. When cranked all the way to the hub the adjustment is perfect. Also, if I get any thread seize, I just replace the bolt to bolt connector; I got 5 while I was there.
Here is a couple of pictures of the adjuster from the top so you can understand the description I just gave.
Worked good and I have had it off and back on one time. The other two stripped and seized after the first use.
Next was the adjusting bolt. It was made of SS and the threads would seize easily. I went through two of them.
I used a 3/8 bolt to bolt connector sleeve about 1 1/2 inch long. I cut the adjusting bolt short and threaded it the thickness of a bolt into one side of the sleeve and used a locking nut to hold. I then got a grade 8 bolt and used it as an adjuster by sliding it through the adjuster holder and into the other end of the bolt to bolt connector sleeve. When cranked all the way to the hub the adjustment is perfect. Also, if I get any thread seize, I just replace the bolt to bolt connector; I got 5 while I was there.
Here is a couple of pictures of the adjuster from the top so you can understand the description I just gave.
Worked good and I have had it off and back on one time. The other two stripped and seized after the first use.
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JASON'S98S/C4X4,
I got them from this guy.
http://www.reichardracing.com/
I really like the double bearing pulleys they make.
I got them from this guy.
http://www.reichardracing.com/
I really like the double bearing pulleys they make.
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From: Louisiana
Looks like you stopped using the no-slip pulley. Too much boost or was it eating the belt? My friend got one for his car and it really helped bring on the power (15 to 21 psi!) and I have a minor amount of belt slip. I don't want to crank down on the tensioner anymore and thinking about a RR or Billet Flow no-slip to get that last bit of grip.
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justjames80,
No I converted over to an 8 rib system and am using a Vortech Renagade pulley that has a textured surface on the business surface. I will probably put my 6 rib no-slip on eBay soon. If I go to a smaller 8 rib pulley it will be the No-slip, it is a quality piece.
No I converted over to an 8 rib system and am using a Vortech Renagade pulley that has a textured surface on the business surface. I will probably put my 6 rib no-slip on eBay soon. If I go to a smaller 8 rib pulley it will be the No-slip, it is a quality piece.