Is it just the people that I am dealing with. Does everbody have problems with the offsets when you want them to inset a little bit so you can lower it without screwing up your fenders tried boss 330 22x9 +32 offset and the stuck out an inch past the front fender now I have ferrio n116 22x9.5 +34 and they are 1/2 inch out past the front fender and all the manufactures say oh those will be flush with the fender and none of them have been wtf. It takes alot of work to keep changing these wheels and money as well. Does anybody know of a machine shop in the corona california area that will mill about 8mm off the back side of the mountiong surface that should make it real close to flush. Yes they will be ok for clearance on the backside of the wheel I think these wheels are on a + 30 offset at least that is what I was able to find out by researching the internet, but the shop that installed them says they are a +34 whatever I think they are all a bunch of Bull****ters.


Mark

 

I know how you feel. I love my wheels, but if I want to go any lower they will have to go.

 

what size tire and wheels do you have do you know the offset.

Mark

 

22x9.5 +30mm on 305/40/22

 

the front wheels stick out about 1/2 inch past the fender. I even spoke with GF today in their tech department he said that there are very few cast wheels that fit corrrectly for lowering. I found that the ones that so fit better for our application they are either no longer available or on a long a$$ back order forever

Oh Well

HLB

 

Ok well her it is inland wheeel of san bernardino fixed my problem. I bought a wheel that was supose to be +34 offset turns out it was a +30. So the next week I took them to let tham machine the back pad I was told on initial inspection 5 to 7 mm was all they could get. When they finally took it in to machine them they were able to get 8mm which now I have a 22x.5 +38 that is the way it should of come out of the casting whatever! Just know when you buy wheels for your ford mine happens to be an 08 just remember they need a high offset at least +35 and depending how the back pad was designed. You may or may not be able to machine them to get to that magic # . All I can say is try to get as much info from the dealer..I had to tlak to the mfg in my case neither one was that helpful throughout the industry. Big props to louie at inland wheel & omar @ aka motorsports two good guys that listen to you needs and then send you to a place that can handel this type of work. While you wait if you have a day set aside for them it took about 4hr's but well worth it. started this thing in late june you feel like a piece of shuffle board from one end to the other

 

Hmmm...maybe I need to look into getting some of my wheel shaved off...

 

Just one word of caution some shops like the wheel dismounted. Two things to consider is where your wheel passes the brake caliper how much space between the two on my original boss 330 I could do nothing because the backside of the face was like maybe 1/16 or an 1/8 fron the caliper so no dice. So I get the new rims and there is about 1/2 of clearence from the caliper which is a little ove 12mm I wanted 8 to 10 mm shaved so I thought the front was no problem. On the back they have dot regs on the thickness of the wheel where it mounts with that in mind they can only shave what is safe so you may be able to get what I did. But don't be surprised if it is not the amount you need to make it fit you needs. For example the first guy I went to tiold me 4mm thats it! Without studding it he is wright but they need to work outside the box some will some wont. My wheels happen to be a 12 hole so that they fit chevy or ford they ended studing the obsolete holes and they also said that they could only shave 5 to 7 mm and were leaning to the 6mm max on initial inspection, but when they got it in there to machine it and miced it. They pulled 8mm and it will still be safe hope this helps if you need any other info let me know and I will try and get it for you

 

So when you're talking about clearance with the brake caliper, what exactly are you refering to? I am intersted in milling a little off of my wheels to inset them. I love my 24x10 Monsters and 295/40's but I want to go 2" lower and my wheels are sitting flush with the outer edge of my fender flares. Right now I have a 2/4 drop(I have an FX4 which is 2" higher than a 2wd) and I want to go to a 4/6 drop(equivelent to a 2wd 2/4 drop). My wheels have a +25 offset and I am considering going to a smaller tire like a 275/35 to overcome the offset issue but I would rather not. Any help you can offer?

 

When you mill off the inner hub of the wheel the inner surface of the wheel (spokes, for lack of a better word) moves closer to the caliper assembly. You mill off too much and you ruin a set of rims.

 

Ahhhhhhhh I get it now......Thank you kind sir! Anybody know off had what the thinnest you can go on a hub is?

 

your truck doesnt look like it is 2 inches higher than mine (2wd with 2/4 drop)

 

That's probably because you don't have 33.4" tires on yours. The big tires make it look like a lower drop at the top of the wheel wells but ultimately make it higher off the ground.

 

well like I stated before first thing is to make sure you have clearence between the brake calipar and the back side of the wheel that faces it if that is ok then you need a professional miller that knows d o t standards they will mic the pad and take off as much as they can without exceeding d o t regulations. For instance mine had a 1/2 gap from caliper to back face of wheel however, the rim was drilled for ford & chevey so the chevy lug holes were studded for strength and then thtats when they mic'd it to determine how manny mm can be taken off and still be safe under dot regulations. Thats it keep in mind though that ther was 1/2 " clearence from caliper to the backside of the rim. I should have beeen able to take12.7 but because of d o t regs i was only able to get 8 becasue the mounting surface would be compromised for strenght "to thin not safe" if we went over 8mm hope this helps


call inland whell They shoud know the standards for D O T 909 888 6324

 

inland wheel 909 888 6324 ask for Louie. From what I know the thickness of you hub is goverened by d. o. t. just like rotors on brakes are. Just to mirror image what was said earlier in the thread the back side of the rim need just to clear the caliper thats it for that. Here is where inland wheel comes in they will only machine off what is safe in my case 8mm was taken off from the factory it was a +30 so now it is a +38 or 5/16 of an inch it was moved in now. It is close to being even with the fender with this modification. If I had the fender flairs on my truck it would tuck. One thing you need to know about my wheels is they were drilled from the factory with 12 holes one for ford and one for chevey bolt patterns so they studed the chevey hole for added support to the center hub. On the front side of the rim between the caliper and the backside of the rim there is still room to move it closer but it will not be safe to shave anymore off the back of the center hub they refer to it as the back surface pad. This is the way to go with a cast wheel if you cannot afford two piece wheels. Which are about 800.00 for one here in my area the cast wheels are about 260 - 350 for the ones that I liked and the machining ran me 55 a wheel. Hope this helps