CAN I INSTALL AN AMP AND SUBS TO MY STOCK SYSTEM, I WANT TO KEEP THE STOCK RADIO, BUT I WANT SOME KILLER SOUND... WHAT TO DO?????????????

 

Yes, it's possible but you have to remember than when interfacing your stock head unit with aftermarket amplifiers usually the only connection method is to use high-level inputs on your amp (if so equipped) and run off the head unit's speaker outputs. The disadvantage is you will be limited by the sound quality of your head unit amplifier (ie. probably doesn't go below 30hz or above 15khz for instance) and sometimes if run through a tiny transformer in the amplifier hi-level inputs will negatively effect the quality of the sound.

Personal opinion here but you probably won't be able to have "killer" sound. The easiest solution is to augment your bass with a small sub box, then turn down the bass on your head unit so you can turn the midrange and treble volume higher on your factory speakers filling in with the subwoofer. Your overall volume level will be higher and you'll have more bass.

Perhaps you can find a really good shop that knows their Ford head units and could possibly hack the unit to extract RCA low-level output.

Generally I ditch the OE head unit as fast as I can but that's just me.

Another suggestion if you lack really low bass in the system and you're using a hi-level speaker to low-level rca converter you might want to try out an Audiocontrol Epicenter to get some low frequency bass. I've used them in the past before. I'm not using mine at the moment though... sorry it's not for sale.

Perhaps someone else with more OE head unit experience than myself can help you out.

Good luck.

 

I recently did this same thing to my '01 SuperCrew. I kept the factory HU, because I dont like any of the mp3 HUs out there yet.

Anyway, Here's what I put into my stereo system:

- Boston Acoustics 6x8 door speakers (4)
- Kenwood 40x4 + 120x1 amp
- Subbox.net supercrew rear seat 10" enclosure
- Polk Audio 10" sub

These components were chosen more for price than quality (the amp was on closeout, and the sub was 2 for 1 on Crutchfield) If I could've afforded component speakers instead of the 6x8s I would've done that. The system sounds great compared to stock, and the 10" sub has real tight bass in the sealed enclosure. (the subbox.net enclosure can be ported) I also had the amp installed behind the back seat in the compartment where the jack normally resides. out of sight, out of mind.

I put this system together to make it sound good inside the cab, I could care less if people outside could hear it or not. But it can dish out some decent bass. I listen to mostly Rock and Country so the tight bass fits well.

- PS - I have been able to **** off a couple ricer teenagers who were blasting their rap music by turning up some old twangy Johnny Cash Song and out doing them. That made the other folks on the road laugh their a$$ off.

 

The Visteon (Ford Stock) head units are actually quite good. They have low noise and most of the features the average person wants. You can buy a quality level converter from www.davidnavone.com which will give you isolation and the ability to adjust your gain structure for best performance. I purchased the N774V which is a higher priced model but I wanted the additional level adjustments. You can also purchase the N902 which will give you the turn on signal for your amp so that it does not need to be on all the time. Richard Clark and David Navone tested the Visteon units we now have against several aftermarket headunits and proved there was no difference and with proper installation could perform as well as an aftermarket installation. I will try to find the link to that test.

I am in the process of installing Polk EX368s in the doors, a Polk dx10 in a subnet box, all powered by the Kicker KX700.5 amp using the above parts from David Navone Engineering. I will let everyone know how it sounds when I am done. I have all my parts except for the subnet box which Andy says should be in my possession soon.

 

this is getting too complicated,,,,,,,,hahaha
Is there any self powered sub boxes that will fit under the back seat of my supercab 4door,, not supercrew....my sound is fine for me, but i want more bass,,,,, but i dont want crappy speakers ,, i need ideas like this from someone that loves what they have,, in this style of speaker.................thanks guys ........

 

this is getting too complicated,,,,,,,,hahaha
Is there any self powered sub boxes that will fit under the back seat of my supercab 4door,, not supercrew....my sound is fine for me, but i want more bass,,,,, but i dont want crappy speakers ,, i need ideas like this from someone that loves what they have,, in this style of speaker.................thanks guys ........

 

I believe JL makes a stealthbox for your truck, don't think it is powered. MTX makes a powered unit, but I would stick with JL and a good amp, much better quality and sound than MTX. You may pay more, but JL is nice stuff, you will need a line output converter though.

 

Hey hdf150painter,

I started a new thread after reading yours and others questions about subwoofers in the '00 and up supercabs. Have a look...

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=77055

 

hey braboin thats cool to hear about pissin off the kids listening to rap. I thinks thats totally cool. I listen to mostly country on my stereo ahttps://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=1198nd it sounds really good.

 

just installed my 4 mid ranges speakers to my high level speaker-input 4 channel-amp. I am using stock head-unit. Here's the problem: I have such a irritating wining noise coming from the speakers, and the noise pitch het higher and louder when I accelerated. My installer told me there's no way to fix this. He said some amp created that noise. I don't believe this. I talked to a different installer and he said the high level input connection may have created that noise. He suggested using the "step down" converter or is it RCA converter? Any one with a problem like mine? Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated. If I used the RCA converter, do I hook them up behind the head unit or on the rear speakers? Thanks guy!

 

This is called alternator whine... it is caused by creating a ground loop between the amp and the head unit, I solved this by running a wire from the ground on my HU and grounding it at the same place as the amp. Im not sure how this applies to the use of the stock stereo system but its something to think about.

 

1. Referred to by those names and others more commonly called speaker level to RCA adapter.

2. Have experienced trouble like yours many many times while working as an installer.

3. Yes, it would be best to connect the RCA adapter as close as possible to the HU. The reason being is that RCA cables have noise rejection properties that speaker wire do not have. As most installers know a car is probably one of the most electronically noisy (RFI and EMI) environments you could ever encounter. When using rear speaker wires you have greater possibility of increased noise over the length of the run through speaker wire. Also, when using the RCA adapter by placing it at the HU you can much more easily change grounding configuration on the adapters ground wires to eliminate the noise (depends on the adapter you get the better ones have 2-3 different wires that you can either ground or not ground in order to isolate the noise and it will take playing around with them to clear it up).

Long story short, get a high quality speaker lead to RCA adapter and connect it close the the HU and run RCA cables from there to the amp.