I just got my new speakers or the screw. Where and how much Dynamat should I use on the doors? I'm going to amp them as well and throw the amp on the back wall. Should I use some of that Dynamat on there also? I will be doing a sub soon after I get the speakers and the amp installed.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

 

Here's a really good tutorial for the doors written by a member of the forum.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...-tutorial.html

My truck is a regular cab and I lined my entire rear wall because my back window vibrated so bad with two ten inch subs.

 

before jumping on the dynamat band wagon check out murdermat. in my opinion they are alot better then dynamat and alot cheaper.

as for placement i do my back cab wall, roof, floor and door skins but i normally do it for higher spl setups. for just every day listening i would do door skins and back wall it will cut down some road noise also.

check out murdermat at http://murdermat.com/ if we can get enough people interested in ordering it i will talk to the owner and see if we can get a group buy going.

dynamat "extreme series" i guess this is the highest series they have is only 4 mil aluminum liner as where murder mat BL series the lowest series they have is a 5 mil anodized aluminum liner with 79 mils of 99.99 pure butyl it is a total of 87 mils thick dynamat doesnt tell you how many mils each layer is. i strongly stand by murder mat and the company is top notch. great customer service.

links to compare

murder mat BL series
http://www.murdermat.com/bl_series.html

murder mat MDK series
http://www.murdermat.com/mdk_series.html

dynamat "extreme series"
http://www.dynamat.com/technical_spe...at_xtreme.html

 

Regardless of the mat you use, one layer on the inner skin of the metal door, and one layer on the outer skin where the speaker location is. Worked for me!

I also did my floor and back wall. Night and day

 

Just to chime in, I'm about to purchase the MurderMat (thanks Monoxide). I have chatted with one of their employees through FaceBook and he's been great. He actually recommended the BL series for the doors since its easier to manipulate than the MDK. He thought the MDK for the back wall, but its not exactly a flat panel, so I think I'm going BL series all the way. And I think I'm going to also purchase some Ensolite from RAAMaudio.com. Their Raammat is similarly priced to the MurderMat. MurderMat still comes out slightly cheaper. I'm planning to buy 80 sq ft of the deadener so I can do outer skin of the doors, inner skin of the doors, inside of the trim panel, and back wall. If I have extra, I'll do the front part of the floor as well.

 

Thanks Guys. I haven't gotten anything yet. Still trying to figure out what I am going to do for the sub setup before I get anything.

 

if you havent set your mind on a amp yet or subs check out ssa subs and crescendo audio amps. if you go with crescendo audio or murder mat tell them i (shawn hilton) sent you.

http://www.crescendoaudio.com/

 

From what I've read there's little benefit to more than 25% coverage with a vibration damper like dynamat or any of the butyl/foil combinations recommended. Its just wasteful and adds unnecessary weight.

Here's a good start to getting in the right direction:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

 

Right on Ray! I read that just the day before I started. Although it was too late as I ordered more than needed. Oh well. I still have the back wall to do. I guess I should stick to the 25% for the back wall as well. What do you think? Seems like everyone is doing the entire wall.

 

I'm a newbie here but have had great experience with Damplifier and Spectrum. Google them and you will find that they are a cost effective solution and MUCH easier to work with. I did my 40 yr old Mach 1 Mustang and now run a 800 watt 12" and there is not one rattle other than my wing spoiler.

For my new truck, there is no doubt what I am going to use for vibration control...