Everything looks good except the last thing on your list. Those Boss amps are worthless, whatever rms power they say you can usually divide by 2 or so and that's what you'll actually get. Look up Audioque amps, they do rated power, and they're budget friendly compared to a lot of other brands.

Also for sound deadening look into second skin and raamat. Both are great stuff and might save you a little cash.

 

Thanks for the heads up on both of those things. I've swapped out the Boss amp for the Audioque AQ1200D. My estimated budget is about $1400 now. Should still be within my $1500 limit after all the little extras and shipping is taken care of.

 

Don't forget to factor in things like wire and rca's either. Those can add up pretty quickly.

Especially if your planning on running two batteries, that means a whole run of 1/0 just for that and it's around 3ish a foot. If it was me, I'd hold off on the second battery. Your not going to running enough power to anything to really be causing dimming issues, unless you plan on playing it alot and really loud with the truck off. It'll save you some cash and you can always go back and add one if you feel the need, I'd just start with the big 3 and then go from there.

 

Don't worry, I didn't forget about the wires, clips, and fuses. I plan on keeping the single battery for now. Will this: http://www.foxacoustics.com/ProductD...de=F150-210-04 lift my seat or will it slide right under as it is after I remove the jack?

 

That box should work without lifting the seat, but it's gonna right at the minimum recommend air space for the type r's. On a side note, I'm assuming your going with the dual 4 subs so you can wire them down to 1ohm across the two to run the amp at full potential?

 

That I know nothing about, I'll leave maximizing the potential to my installer friend. I'm just trying to figure out what I'm going to purchase and making sure it's all compatible. I haven't got a clue what gauge wire I should use or size/location of fuses. That will all be left up to him after the kit arrives.

What's your opinion on swapping the subs for two REX10D4's?

 

They're great subs, they play good all around, and only require about half the power that the alpines will want. But will still have comparable output.

I'd say do it if you don't mind sacrificing a little bit of overall loudness, because it'll save you a lot of money. If you went with those you wouldn't need as big of an amp, you would only need one that could do around 5-600rms at 1ohm. Of course you could still get the aq amp and just keep the gain cut back and it would always give you room to expand later.

 

I have heard good things about RE's

 

That's a good idea pizzaman, I think I'll buy the REs and aq amp still, if I want more bass I can upgrade in the time it takes to ship new subs and return the REs.

To clarify my problem about the door handle from earlier, it's the front driver side, inside door handle. When I have the bass up anywhere above mid, with the volume at highway speeds, it rattles and buzzes in sync with the bass beats. I often rest my hand up against it while I'm driving to prevent it. After I put in the soundproofing with the new speakers do you think it will go away?

 

Umm did you go and make sure the bolt for the handle is really tight, if it's loose just a little it'll rattle.

 

I'll take a look at it when I'm putting the speakers in, it's probably that simple of a solution.

I've been thinking about saving some money upfront and going with a cheaper amp for my cheaper subs. It's less risky for me to buy cheap and immediately upgrade than to overbuy and never know it. Would this work: RE Audio DTS-1000.1?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-1000.1.html

 

Yup that amp would work perfectly, and it actually probably only does about 600rms or so at 1ohm. RE amps are a bit over-rated power wise, but still very good quality.

 

How much raammat should I buy in terms of sq ft? I was looking through the how-to articles about adding sound dampening material to the doors and behind the back seat and it looks like most people used quite a bit.

How long should I expect this to take? A full saturday or is this going to be an entire weekend? I think I'm going to get some toggle switches and relay them into the amps as well.

 

For a full install definitely plan on the better part of a weekend, if not more. As for deadener it's really up to you, I'd start with somewhere around 25-50 feet because you can always order more if you need it. Definitely do the doors before you do the rear wall though.

 

UPDATE!

I'm currently at a loss because I have two plugs inside my dash and a wiring harness to connect my aftermarket H/U that only has one. Did I buy the wrong thing?

Thanks again everyone for your input. After saving up for a year and doing more research I finally began my install. Unfortunately I started during the cold season so every inch of progress is hard won. I'm half finished. I ended up with two 10" Lightning Audio subs, a custom fit under-seat box from ebay, a 1200W volfenhag amp for the subs, dynamat for the doors and rear cab wall, BOSS 7" DVD player H/U, and the RE 6.5" component speakers for the doors. Getting the doors dynamatted was a pain. Getting the speakers to fit even more. I would tell all future installers to skip the bargain for 6x9 speakers that fit the factory holes. but I would also tell all future installers to save up a little longer and pay a pro to install it. The hassle wasn't worth the savings for me.