Subwoofer help
What kind of amp do you have? That is going to be the determining factor on which subwoofer to go with. Below is an article that will shed some light on dual voice coil subs.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Jyj2HIy...fers_dual.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Jyj2HIy...fers_dual.html
If it was me I would try and figure out what kind of subwoofer setup you want to go with and which one exactly. Then you can buy your amp based off the specs of the sub. You also need to decide if you want to do a single sub setup or dual that will play a big role in determing what amp to get.
If you wanna go single sub I'd get a dual 4ohm so you can wire it down to 2ohms, if you wanna go two subs get dual 2's so you can wire each sub at 4ohm and then wire it to the amp at a 2ohm load. Unless your gonna get a nice amp that's 1ohm stable, but chances are you won't need that if your looking at a 300rms sub.
I am pretty sure I am going single 10 in atrend box or supercrew sound box
And a id10 v3 so I should go with a dual 4 ohm wire it down to 2 ohm then get a good mono channel amp?
And a id10 v3 so I should go with a dual 4 ohm wire it down to 2 ohm then get a good mono channel amp?
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You got it.
Always get more amp than just matching RMS numbers. You can turn the gains down and have all the clean power your sub can handle.
By matching RMS numbers you can easily get into the situation of sending a maxed out clipped signal to the sub and it will be short lived.
Always get more amp than just matching RMS numbers. You can turn the gains down and have all the clean power your sub can handle.
By matching RMS numbers you can easily get into the situation of sending a maxed out clipped signal to the sub and it will be short lived.
You got it.
Always get more amp than just matching RMS numbers. You can turn the gains down and have all the clean power your sub can handle.
By matching RMS numbers you can easily get into the situation of sending a maxed out clipped signal to the sub and it will be short lived.
Always get more amp than just matching RMS numbers. You can turn the gains down and have all the clean power your sub can handle.
By matching RMS numbers you can easily get into the situation of sending a maxed out clipped signal to the sub and it will be short lived.
If you wanna go single sub I'd get a dual 4ohm so you can wire it down to 2ohms, if you wanna go two subs get dual 2's so you can wire each sub at 4ohm and then wire it to the amp at a 2ohm load. Unless your gonna get a nice amp that's 1ohm stable, but chances are you won't need that if your looking at a 300rms sub.
@ 2 ohms into a single -RF- shallow sub DVC 4ohm/coil and I think it hits hard.
2003 F150 XLT 4x4 SCAB, 4.6L 6+ft bed
See below for specs.
$400 amp / $180 sub /custom sealed box + wiring
off subject...
PIZZAMAN, my cousin's driving a 67 mustang coupe (bluish) around your town, 289 w/ headers.
Told him to keep any eye out for you and your PA speakers.
my 2 cents, I didnt' go nutso with bass, but 5th channel in my amp runs 300WRMS
@ 2 ohms into a single -RF- shallow sub DVC 4ohm/coil and I think it hits hard.
2003 F150 XLT 4x4 SCAB, 4.6L 6+ft bed
See below for specs.
$400 amp / $180 sub /custom sealed box + wiring
off subject...
PIZZAMAN, my cousin's driving a 67 mustang coupe (bluish) around your town, 289 w/ headers.
Told him to keep any eye out for you and your PA speakers.
@ 2 ohms into a single -RF- shallow sub DVC 4ohm/coil and I think it hits hard.
2003 F150 XLT 4x4 SCAB, 4.6L 6+ft bed
See below for specs.
$400 amp / $180 sub /custom sealed box + wiring
off subject...
PIZZAMAN, my cousin's driving a 67 mustang coupe (bluish) around your town, 289 w/ headers.
Told him to keep any eye out for you and your PA speakers.

As for your cousin I'm pretty sure I've seen the car haha. There's one old blue mustang I always see that I love so its probably his ha.


