I have read all the threads by Tdel10, Langlowe, and whoever else and just want to make sure I'm on the right path here.

This is what I have so far:
PDX 1.600 amp
PDX 4.100 amp
Soundsplinter 8" sub 600 watts rms
4 x Infinity Kappa 6.5s
LC6i controller (when I find one for cheap)
Metra BT-5520 harness
and the wiring.

What I need still..
Pigtail connectors for the door speakers, either I'm a ratard for searching or they're incognito on the interweb!
And the easiest way to adapt the speakers to the door frames
Build the box and an amp rack

To you guys that have done this am I missing anything? I will update this thread when the build starts and as parts roll in. Thanks for the help!

 

Looks like a good plan.

If you don't already have the door speakers thing about some type of component for the front. They will sound better than coaxials.

If your door speakers are not component then I believe the correct door speaker harness is Metra 72 5600. I actually have a pair at the house. I was going to use them for the coaxial rear fill until I found I could run all new speaker cable.

Mounting speakers to doors I would use 1/2 mdf.
Take the factory speakers and draw outline on mds including mounting holes.
Take ring or template from new speakers and draw required openining in factory outline.
Cut out 6 1/2 opening.
Cut out around factory speaker outline. Give enough room for mounting. I used about 1 inch extra.
Predrill factory mounting holes and countersink
Waterproof and paint new custom baffle.
Attach new baffle to door.
Attach speaker to baffle.
Some people use a non hardnening clay between the speaker and ring. Others have use a silicone type sealant. They do this to create a more flexable mounting point to seperate the speaker from the door thereby reducing speaker vibration.

When I deaden my doors I will be using silicone.

Keep the thread updated with your progress.

 

Versus using waterproofer, you may want to just coat them in fiberglass resin, or possibly use HDPE(cutting board), which is what I'm doing.

Can you be a bit more specific what you are doing with your wiring? It makes quite a bit of difference! To the point I have more money in wiring than I do amps /puke!!

 

I used mdf just because I had it, it is cheap, and is very dense.

Resin would indeed be better than waterproofer. However, it can be messy but is fairly cheap.

I will comment on the wiring.
If you are going to run single power wire to the back for multiple amp, you might as well user 1/0. Check out knukonceptz. 1/0 is about 2x the cost of 4.

I made the mistake of only running 4 gauge and am about to pull it out and run 1/0.

I pulled just enough capacity for the amps I was installing. I have changed since then and now have plans for more.

 

I will be running a 1/0 for my amps. Go big or go home right!? One thing I don't understand only because I've never had to use one is the LC6i. What exactly does it do and how is it hooked up in the mix of things?

 

The LC6i is a line out converter (LOC) that takes the signal from the speaker wire out of your factory head unit and converts it to RCA signal that your amps accept. It also adds another channel to send a signal to your subwoofer's amp.

When hooking up the LC6i, go with the Stinger 9 Conductor Speedwire. It is 9 conductor speaker wire that you'll attatch to the Metra bt-5520. This way you run 1 cable to attach all 4 channels and the power wire from your factory head unit to the LC6i.

 

Thanks for the help. So if I'm picturing this right in my head, they speedwire will connect the speaker outs and then just run up to the LC6i? If so that makes it really easy! Gonna buy the rest of the stuff tonight and try to get the box and amp rack built this weekend and hopefully done the next week as I get time.